NickJ

Thats pretty rad to find a vehicle your olds once owned! we have a similar story in my family, the old man saw a chev corvair on TM that brought back memories of the one my grandfather had when they first moved out, he somehow tracked it down and even better managed to buy it! here it is tucked away waiting on hefty rust repairs but the effort for that history will make it worthwhile. I must show him this thread for motivation!

Recycled cardboard bins under westfield riccarton are unguarded, saw a few hefty boxes there last weekend

Go FI and never look back! carbs are 50 fudges in a tiny mechanical box while FI is elegant and functional not to mention easy as to tune! I'm all for carbs but now i've learnt the way of efi i'm a changed man.

No much visual progress but moving on After a good yarn with Governorsam I think I need to back off a bit and just get this car running and enjoy it, so from now on i'm just going to tidy up whats needed for a wof and lay off the turd polishing, (just a little) Cleaned up the carb, manifold and fuel pump, also have rebuild kits fresh from the Ukraine ready to go. getting closer with my panel beating introduction, will prime and paint with whatever I have, a respray is now off the table, maybe just a rattle can job on the repaired panels. Popped the front springs out to look at how much low is possible, was quite a mission to say the least, with the sway bar off and lower arm at full droop the difference between free length and just enough to pop out is massive! and its still legal height! She's now on the front bumps and looks good, however the geometry is a bit whack so i'll mess around with the jack and see what length springs to go for.

$7999!! I'm honoured you let me sit in it, twice!

FYI We're leaving from the peg at 130, that means you can hand in the report at 5 and still beat us there. I do believe you told me in the workshop that if its finished this week you'd take the drive.

Ye of little faith! I have a light adapter and providing the spit doesn't weigh an astronomical amount its easy, although if there is a better tow wagon it might be better than to trust the highlight of the weekend's menu on a russian

With the weather last weekend being crap i worked on some inside stuff: The top door trims are pretty beat up, yeah a new set is 40usd but.. While wondering a cheap way to fix them my girlfriend happened to be making a new wallet from pleather, tagging along on her next trip to the fabric store I parted with $15 and started to experiment: I cut out the shitty foam and patched it with a similar stiffness piece I had lying about and stretched the pleather over, not bad, i'll cover the rest the same way but with out needing to patch, the dark brown may also add some class to the interior Making progress on the front panel, I find its best to do it a bit each day with a fresh head, otherwise I start making a mess!

Possibly an embarrassing post but hey. Had a close look at the carbs again today to sort out the flat spot focussing on the accelerator pump circuit. Being there is slack between the actuator and the diaphragm that I can't adjust out this was the target. With everything looking right I took the diaphragm out to check if for some reason I brought the wrong one, cue the i'm an idiot moment....... Turns out I never replaced the return spring when I rebuilt the carbs, quick check of my parts box and there they are, 5 min later, back together, a quick test drive and once again another leap forward in drivability. Anyway, pics Before: The little spring: After: Looks like it needs a clean too!

idiot post.... Well I can now confirm the pumps operate from 0, pulled the diaphragms out to check they were correct and found I hadn't replaced the springs when I rebuilt them last year, with the springs in the flat spots gone and she gets off idle much nicer.

How many cb radios will be around? i'm hoping to have one sorted this week, anyone else in the slow-voy?

So I have a pair of Dellorto drla downdrafts on my Lada, i've been chasing a flat spot coming off idle for a while, increasing the idle jets has improved it slightly but i'm now on jets that are way big compared to the suggested start point, added to that open road fuel consumption is not as good as it should be so my gut feeling says rich as. Onto the point of the thread, when the pump jet first flows its at about 1/3 stroke, should it flow right from first opening or once the progression holes have done their thing? i've adjusted the pumps to full stroke and it improves but will take some fiddling to get pump flow any earlier, can anyone confirm the start point for me? Hope to borrow a wideband next week to sort overall jetting next week before Hamner, would like to have the pump jets working right so I don't have to worry too much about that circuit. Cheers! Specs drla 36 30mm venturi 122 main 55 idle (may be +/-1)

Most libraries have a selection of standards, University Library would be a good start. Canty Uni has a copy, I can copy a few pages if there is anything specific you need?

Picked up the hammer and dolly set this week and have been slowly tapping away when I have time. Pulled the front bumper off to get at a small dent in the valance and noticed the damage is most likely from hitting a fence, there are gouges just the same size as fencing wire........ The front left guard has left me worried until I got the bumper off and realised this side has been punted in and with the help of a scissor jack i've pushed it out and the bulk of the bulge has gone, still a bit more fine tuning to get everything back where it should be but i'm now moderately hopeful I can save the guard, happy times! Actually quite like the front without the bumper, very boxy, stoked to be making progress, few more sessions and I'll have to decide what to do about replacing all the paint.... And hoping that I don't end up in the same place as Father Ted... Discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49397-nickjs-1989-lada-2105/

130pm at the peg works for me

well if he's got you in the ball park you should be pretty sweet, are there any air leaks, manifold is straight, gaskets healthy ect? if its spitting I believe thats more on the lean side, so checking reg/neadle valve/floats?

Had a go at some of the easier dents, with only a claw hammer and lumps of metal for a dolly I've surprised myself with my first efforts, a mate has offered his hammer and dolly set so can't wait to get my hands on that! Before: After: I managed to use a strip of ply to pop the worse out, my bits of scrap metal don't quite fit in there! The plan will be once I have the dolly set to then shape it further, also has a small hole from the kink at the top, will have to weld that up. And another spot I should have got a before shot of, but was pretty bad. Check the gap between the gaurd and the rear panel, all over the car seams are pretty dodge, the lack of precision is a crack up, but its all part of the charm! Introducing Lilu, she enjoys helping me out, mostly by lazing in the sun on my spare niva rims If any panel beaters out there are keen for a beer or two, feel free to pop over, youtube isn't quite interactive enough!

I really wish something like this could work, sadly there are too many muppets who would break stuff including themselves. BUT for a uni project its perfect, there is alot there to discuss and will help you explore options and find solutions, even if it doesn't look likely in practice its a good model to explore. Id say base it on larger tools that the home fixer doesn't have, welding turning etc (big assumption users know what they are doing!!) and go from there.

I'm bloody impressed you took that on and can you please write a thread on methods for gaining approval from the lady? this build has got me off the hook for the state of the vehicle I just brought home (yes I'm comparing a Viva to a Lada!) PS keep the beat up look, especially that dash!

Oh thats crap, sucks to sell a car then regret it hence I'm only on car #3 & 4! $400 for that is awesome value for money! 1k for a rolling shell is quite an ask, but they are slowly creeping up in price, Nivas seem to be creeping up to 2k for a good one on TM and I personally think they are the most sellable, the 2103-5-7 seem more collector vehicles with buyers that are more keen for one to fix than one ready to go, keeping the price down. This also reminds me its been over 10 years since i've owned a rwd car (that was #1) I can't wait for a hoon!

Do you not have the wagon anymore? Just ordered a stack of bits, hopefully get her drivable then time to sort the rust for a wof

Spot on! I measured it a while back (should prob recheck!) and she's at 16mA with the alarm on, which is not really anything to worry about, the main reason is most of my hunting is solo and the locations are a long way from help! I also carry an inverter for chargers ect when basing at huts, the spare batt gives redundancy and extra grunt if there are any starting issues... The plan is to hook it up with a 175A connectors to an isolator switch and then 30mm cable direct to the starter motor. And you read my mind for solar! the distant dream is to fabricate a roof cage that will incorporate a 60W solar panel that will be hooked up to the spare batt via one of those fancy shut off switches, then I can sit back in the tussocks of the Canterbury high country enjoying the view knowing i'll get home for a beer!

I looked at that but the chance of hitting a void when boring out put me off, using a 1700 crank sounds interesting but they are very thin on the ground here and for the cost to import one a twin cam build would be within budget, just rebuilding the engine with the basics right (balanced internals & matched compression/cam/carb combo) is quite appealing

You seem to be right, not much space in there, downdrafts will be the way to go, at least the manifold will be simpler than the one I had to build for the Niva! quite likely need the vfts bonnet scoop to make them fit! Start a build thread and do it, then I can avoid your mistakes!