NickJ

How much of an effort was required to drive down from Ak? charging stops/overnight in a few places or just hoon on through?

No respect the youth of today would provide a house for 13 if they ever tried to dispose of it

Junk race cars?

I'm sure we could find a corner to hide them for a week or so if needed. I'm surprised to see them dump the eco car, that was the first one right?

Wow, that shell eco car would be good to fit out for a commuter. You can't claim one for your guys to fit out?

Are they throwing out the old bodies?

Had me puzzled about the point of the corners.... Thought about it for a bit.... Wow thats fancy! Love your work

I just did my tridens with 400 wet and dry then autosol on wirewool, clean, but not over bling

Whats the cheap set gunna sting you for shipping?

Can you hoon it just as a chassis?

Haha, he's getting pissy on FB with anyone making the Lada connection, true Fiat fanboy eh?

Soaked in white vinegar, scrubbed, grit blast and then etch primed and enameled today. when I ordered the paint I couldn't be arsed with mixing and having left overs so just got a few rattle cans made up. Pic is of prime only, went with a dark grey and it looks sweet

Got shown this over the weekend, surprised I don't recall seeing it before, as its right confusing and cool at the same time.

Cheers mate, i'm quite proud of the fan, especially retaining concentration while repeating the same sequence many times over! Only regret that I didn't allow the time to anodise it If you missed this thread, just think how many other build threads are lurking to soak up your spare time.....

Quite possibly, there were a few fancy tricks hiding in there, I just can't remember the details

Quite an odd delivery from the family parts horde this week via some friends in town for swapmeet. The original brake master, pedal and booster from the Datsun plus a front diff housing for the Niva. Also snuck into the crate was some interior trim I was missing and a boot badge. This is the only badge I don't have an original of. Without messing about I drew it up on the computer and hopefully will have a replica sorted by the time this one is due home. Also keen to try cast it, the geometry is quite challenging, but only one way to find out! Have been putting in some hours on the Sumitomo MK63 4 pot callipers from my fathers race 1600, they are coming up nice and i'm struggling to resist fitting them to mine! So far we've sourced a set of NOS pistons and seals, just need to suss the pads and hopefully some dust boots Picked up some paint today and scrubbed out the last of the rust, looking forward to seeing these rebuilt. And just to tease, here's a 45 year old picture of the car they'll be going into....

Had a look but can't find the paper I read on it, google "sparkplug ionisation current" and that might lead you down the correct rabbit hole

Looking for paint to protect cast iron callipers from rusting, went into Spraystore here in Chch and they suggested standard enamel will handle the temps fine. This appeals as we can get a colour mixed thats not bright red/yellow (ideally looking for dark grey) Can anyone confirm the temp limits of standard enamel?

One would hope there is additional reporting behind those images to qualify the results?

Yeah they tend to weep as its quite hard to get the copper to yield evenly/everywhere. When I was looking at making one, I considered etching away non clamping areas similar to a standard gasket.

Is it possible to deck the pistons domes down? We have copper sheet and could cut a gasket if needed, just the design is tricky, you need to ensure you get sufficient clamping force on the copper.

Managed to scratch up some suitable paints from the horde and now the badge looks much better than expected, time for a beer!

Cheers! But... I'm in the situation where each pour is superior than the previous that I can't help wanting to try once more. Tis a terrible cycle. And I now feel I should work out a furnace to melt Ali and give that a hoon.

Had another play this evening, started the moulds last weekend and baked them out for 24 hours. Also gave the plaster a few more days before opening up, retained a bit more detail than before. Solder poured much easier and I really should have poured faster, the area around the 1 is just starting to show signs of cooling off.

Had another play with casting the badges after work.... Built a new mould using timber scraps Left the plaster a couple of days between each pour, the last few practice moulds had been too green and I lost detail removing the badge. Baked it out for 24 hours and then poured at about 200C, no bubbling/spitting at all. Not 'perfect' but so much better than the previous attempts and I have proved a few fundamentals for myself. Gave it a quick file and it fits the contour of the bootlid surprising well, considering the worst bits can be filed out or painted over, it may just do the trick.