Flash
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Posts posted by Flash
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37 minutes ago, AllTorque said:
My listing said it was for a 3Y, so should be interchangeable. Find a friendly auto sparky near by, they might find one locally.
I tried to send you a message via O/S, but had no luck.
There is an auto sparky in our closest town that I have experienced and sadly would not trade again.
Do you perhaps know what the Denso part or SKU number is for that unit and I'll see what I can do locally.
Failing that I might have to reach out to one of my NZ mates to help a brother out.
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1 hour ago, AllTorque said:
My sources tell me this is the replacement electronic distributor. Note the coil is built in and will not fit all applications.
I can source a Denso brand for $450
where are you based?
Thanks for the reply @AllTorque. That looks to be a replacement unit for Toyota part number 19030-71010. I've got a manky looking non-working one that came with a spare 4Y engine that I sourced a while back.
I'm almost sure that the 3Y and 4Y distributors are interchangeable. The connecting plug looks different on your unit, but I should be able to sort that fairly easily.
I'm across in Queensland Straya.
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Hey All, I'm in trouble once again so thought I would reach out for some much-needed guidance.
I'm struggling with what appears to be intermittent spark related issues with my Thames van which is running a Toyota 3Y engine. To cut a long story short I'm wanting to replace my rather tired points based distributor with a new unit. Only problem is that Toyota have discontinued manufacture (part number 19100-71010). To make matters worse they have also discontinued the electronic distributor (part number 19030-71010) that superseded the original points-based unit.
It looks like I'm going to have to resort to sourcing an aftermarket unit, but unfortunately all units are not created equal, and I've been burnt before with a replacement distributor that self-destructed after less than 100km.
So, in conclusion I'm looking for a recommendation on a reputable aftermarket brand that I can source.
Ta in advance.
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In my last update I mentioned that whilst I was messing around with a new wiper setup, I was going to attempt to get the park function working.
Whilst I got some really good advice from a number of oldschoolers, it turns out that whilst most wiper motors have a "normally closed" park switch the one that I am using has a "normally open" park switch which makes things slightly more complicated for someone with my barely adequate wiring skills. I even tried stripping the wiper circuitry and components from the donor van that the wiper motor came from.
But upon testing the system it appears as though this little Mitsubishi box of tricks has given up on life:
To be fair to it, the label specifically states "don't drop" and since it's been kicking around the shed floor for a few years I can't blame it for packing a sad.
I do have another wiper motor with a "normally closed" park switch in stock, but unfortunately it is bigger than the Mitsi unit and just won't fit into the available space, so the long-term plan is to source a smaller unit that has a normally closed park switch, but for now I'm just going to live without the park function.
So with that episode behind me for now, I cracked into completing the rest of the wiper setup.
On Boxing Day I headed into town to grab some car related stuff at the usual less 25% sale and grabbed this set of 12 inch wiper blades that suit the Mitsi arms:
Next step was to nip and tuck the wiper arms as the Mitsi units are about 15mm longer than the Thames ones:
The extra length on the arms caused the blades to hit the windscreen seal at the very top of the stroke. So,after a quick bit of surgery and a few coats of the usual satin black, I was able to fit everything up. My hackery isn't too noticeable:
The Mitsi arms originally had those little plastic covers for the spindle nuts, but one was missing, and the other was sun bleached and really brittle:
So, I ended up fitting a stainless-steel dome nut which looks pretty cool and is kinda in keeping with the vintage:
With the drive shaft disconnected I did some test sweeps which looked really good, so I slapped in the modified driveshaft:
Chucked some water on the screen and gave it a whirl.
I'm stoked with the result. Way smoother than the original Thames setup.
I'm looking forward to working on something other than wipers now.
Thanks for reading.
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23 hours ago, Flash said:
Looking closely at the loose wire its green with a red ring running around the wire every so often.
What has got me beat is that I definitely cut the other end of that green wire off the fuse marked "wiper" in the fuse box, but then the wire just runs to a dead end near the wiper switch. The green wire is a direct lead with no other junctions in it, so there is currently no way to get power into the wiper circuitry.
I took another look at the main wiring loom today and it turns out that when I was looking at the fuse box legend which is on the fuse box cover I was reading the legend back to front. The green wire actually feeds the hooter switch which is located on the other column mounted stalk. Sure enough looking at the indicator stalk there was the other end of the green wire and I now remember having to snip the green wire and a black earth to separate the two stalks a couple of years back when I wrecked that van. What a numpty I am.
So @torton is correct. The power should tee into one of the blue wires leading to the wiper motor. Other work prevented me from playing any further but I'll muck around with it again tomorrow.
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3 minutes ago, tortron said:
Presumably it would be the wire marked L (blue) on the top diagram above, that comes from acc on the ign and goes to the blue wire running between the switch and the motor. You can figure that one out by comparing the plugs
Thanks Tori. I'll dig through the rest of the loom tomorrow.
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Looking closely at the loose wire its green with a red ring running around the wire every so often.
What has got me beat is that I definitely cut the other end of that green wire off the fuse marked "wiper" in the fuse box, but then the wire just runs to a dead end near the wiper switch. The green wire is a direct lead with no other junctions in it, so there is currently no way to get power into the wiper circuitry.
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Thanks heaps for the diagrams @tortron.
So, I've managed to separate the wiper related components and wiring from the main wiring loom out of my '85 Starwagon donor van.
The wiring is all pretty much self-contained except for three black earthing wires and one green power feed wire that came off the wiper fuse in the fuse box.
The green power wire runs up towards the wiper switch, but then just ends almost as if it has been cut. To my way of thinking it should be feeding power into the switch, but I can't see any signs on any of the soldered terminals at the back of the switch as to where it should go.
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1 hour ago, sr2 said:
If you're using a toggle switch you'll need a single pole double throw. I'd use a double pole/double throw ( https://www.jaycar.com.au/dpdt-6a-240vac-heavy-duty-centre-off-standard-toggle-switch/p/ST0576 ) so you can double up the contacts and not need to run a relay, i.e. keep it simple.
If you can confirm the terminals were correct in my previous post I'll draw you up a circuit diagram and a simple wiring schematic.
@sr2 that switch looks like a match for the one that I bought from Jaycar a while back for this purpose, but I'm no expert. Underside of switch looks like so:
You are also correct in that if I connect an earth to wire C, wire B is my low speed and wire D is high speed.
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Hold the phone fellas !
So the other day when @igor asked me if I had the original harness and switchgear from the donor van I quickly said no.
But looking at @Raizer's post showing an intermittent switch got me thinking some more and I suddenly realised that I'm using the wiper motor out of my older SD series donor van instead of the one out of my newer SJ series van which I left the wiring loom in.
So, yes, I do still have the mostly intact SD series wiring loom. I've pulled it out of the dusty corner of my shed and behold it does have a controlling box similar to the image that @Raizer posted.
I can't remember if I sold the column-based wiper switch from this van or whether it's still lying amongst my parts, but maybe I should see if I can figure out how this controller is wired up before we go any further.
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Okay all, I've done some experimentation on this and @sr2 is correct in that I can reverse the polarity on the wires and the two speeds still work with the only difference obviously being that the motor turns in the opposite direction.
I then opened up the "gearbox portion" of the mechanism and I've been able to ascertain that the park switch is of the normally open variety.
It uses these two "fingers" to close a circuit when the rotation reaches the outer contact:
So it looks like @sr2 is on the money in terms of me having to make up a "box full of electronic trickery" to get the park function to work, especially considering that I want to control the main functions through a simple double pole on-off-on toggle switch.
Simon, it you are able to put together a solution for me I'd be eternally grateful as my OCD just can't cope with the wiper blades stopping any old where.
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Now "fun me" wanted to crack straight into the a/c hoses, but "serious me" decided that since we are now deep in our rainy season getting the wipers working again should be top priority - not to mention getting the windscreen sealed properly.... but that is another story.
So those of you playing along at home would have likely spotted the shocking condition of my under-dash wiring:
Yep, not pretty at all.
The plan has always been to get all of the additional wiring for the mod cons in and then do a final tidy up, but with just the two a/c related wires left to run there is no time like the present to tackle the rat's nest.
First order of business was to get everything out of the way of the new wiper mechanism, so I scratched around in my parts bin and came up with two little metal brackets that came from one of my donor vans. Gave them a quick clean and a spritz of satin black and they now look like so:
I then grovelled under the dash one more time and managed to poke two more holes in the front panel lip. Threw two self tappers at the brackets and wrapped a bit of spiral bind around the wires and she looks much better now:
Once I've added the two a/c wires into the spiral bind I'll use some cable ties to secure the loom to the holding brackets.
Anyway, with the wiring loom now safely out of reach of the wiper mechanism I was finally able to mount the wiper motor in position.
The last wiper related mechanical step was to shorten the length of this drive shaft to suit the new motor position:
So out came my grinder of angles and I ended up with this pair:
Scratching around in my pipe stash yielded a piece of aluminium tube that slips over each of the cut ends perfectly.
I spent a bit of time fine tuning the length of the aluminium joiner till I got the movement spot on. Gave everything a test run and it works brilliantly. Unlike the Thames mechanism which was quite jerky the L300 setup is silky smooth.
Flushed with success I'm now attempting to get the park function working as up to now I've had to time my switching to get the wipers to stop in the correct position.
The wiring for the park function is currently doing my head in so I've shouted out for help on the General Car Chat page and I've already received some good info from a number of old schoolers. So hopefully I can get this sorted too.
Some more work on the wiring tomorrow and with a bit of luck I can get on to the a/c hoses later in the weekend.
Thanks for looking.
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46 minutes ago, Hyperblade said:
So since it's of the same era. I've wired up a 84 Toyota starlet motor from scratch before, which was a pain.
Here's a starlet wiring diagram.
\
In my case I needed a 4 pole switch (not cheap e.g. $80+) to allow it to park correctly, getting off/low/high is the easy part.
It is ground based.
The wiper motor needed 12v and 3 wires from switch.
Pin Terminal Cable Destination Description 1 12v 12v Light Blue 2 park Light Blue/White 3 low Light Blue/Red 4 high Light Blue/Black Then the switch needed 12v as well then 3 wires to the wiper motor and you have to jump 2 of the pins (dotted)
Pin 2: Park
Pin 3/4 connected via jumper (dotted)
Pin 5: Low
Pin 10: (not sure can't read what I wrote, I think it livens up the other circuits within the switch
Pin 11: 12v source
Pin 12: High
Thanks heaps for this info @Hyperblade I've got some homework to perform tomorrow.
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1 hour ago, sr2 said:
Most 4 wire wiper motors I've come across have the earth through the body, and terminals for a continual 12V supply, high and low speeds and an on/off. Not too hard to work out which terminal is which with a 12V supply.
@sr2 thanks for the reply Simon. Looks like Mitsubishi do something different as earthing the body and then cycling +12 volts through the other wires yields no results on three of the wires and sparks on the 4th wire.
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1 hour ago, Doug Hill said:
C should be +12v
The other 3 should be a lucky dip of earthing via the switch to get park/low/high
Thanks heaps for the guidance @Doug Hill. Test results below:
With a power feed connected to wire C, earthing wire B gives me low speed, earthing wire D gives me high speed, but earthing wire A does nothing.
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Good suggestion @locost_bryanIt's off a SD series Mitsi L300 van circa 1985.
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22 minutes ago, igor said:
If you have the switchgear and appropriate bits of the loom from the donor vehicle that might be a good start.
(I'm not a sparky so there may be something obvious that I'm not seeing.)
No such luck @igor
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I'm trying to figure out how to wire up this two-speed wiper motor and to get the park function to work without blowing the bloody thing up.
Please help a brother out.
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Couldn't wait to unpack my a/c hose fittings. I've gone for the DIY Air-O-Crimp option.
It's the first time that I'm going to be making up my own a/c hoses, so I reckon I'm in for an interesting time.
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By yesterday morning my freshly painted a/c mounting brackets were dry.
Quickly mounted the under-dash a/c unit for what is hopefully the final time and then set about working out my hose requirements so I can get my order in with Jeremy the a/c man before he closes up for the festive period.
As mentioned in one of my previous updates I was hoping to bring the hoses up into the cabin behind the false panel that covers the wiring loom, but on looking underneath the van a portion of the underside of the floor is made up of a hollow structural brace that I'm loath to drill through. So, the only option is to bring the hose up on the LHS and loop them around to the right behind the unit. I'm thinking I'll replicate the false panel to hide it all.
Anyhoo that has increased the length of the hoses by a good meter each so it's good that I discovered it now. The rest of the pipework looks fairly straight forward although I am a bit worried about the compressor lines as the 90 degree ends that I have ordered may not suffice. But I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.
With the hose components all on order, I thought I'd tackle the wiper motor mounting bracket today.
So first up I took a look at the original Starwagon factory mount:
Yeah nah, that helps me "sweet fanny adams", so looks like I'm up for some metal carving.
Started off with a little cardboard aided design and came up with this beauty:
"Why so complex Flash?" I hear you asking.
Well, the driving spindle needs to face the front of the van and the only mounting point that I have available is the lip on the underside of the dashboard located behind the wiper motor, hence this U-shaped monstrosity.
Next step was to replicate the bracket in something more solid than an old cereal box:
After a bit of the old cutty, cutty, followed by the poking of a few holes and here she is in all her glory:
Had to play around with the angle on the mounting tab to get things to line up properly:
Temporarily clamped it in place. The good news is that it just fits between the fuse box and the glove box opening.
I then offered up the little drive shaft, but it's way too long, so that is going to need a bit of nip and tuck surgery.
That will probably have to wait for a few days as I've just received notification that my a/c hose components are ready for pickup, so I'll head through to town tomorrow.
Thanks for looking.
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Most of the late 70s and early 80s Porsche 911s were fitted with K jet systems so I would give Stu at Aero Automotive a try. If he can't help I'm sure he will know someone who can.
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And that's the holes drilled so that my a/c mounting brackets bolt up to the glove box bracket.
I wasn't happy with the puny looking rear mounting bracket that came in the a/c kit.
So, I spent a bit of time making up my own rear bracket in true "Rough & Ready Restos" fashion.
With all of the mounts completed I slapped the glove box bracket back in position and then bolted in the a/c unit.
I'm pretty chuffed with the result. It doesn't look too out of place.
The other good news is that the gas lines are located on the RHS of the unit which means that I can hopefully hide them behind this panel:
The panel currently hides the main wiring loom and a few additional circuits that I have recently added. I whipped it out to see how much space is left behind the panel.
Looks like I should be able to squeeze the a/c pipes in between the wiring loom and the front panel. I've still got a few additional circuits to add (including some a/c related wiring) before I can wrap my extra wiring loom, but hopefully that will neaten things up too.
Thanks for looking.
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Aftermarket distributor for Toyota 3Y
in General Car Chat
Posted
I'm so gun shy after my last run in with an eBay sourced dizzy. Even if that one that you can source is a reman unit I'd still be keen. Are you able to message me your contact details?