Sunbeam

I was wrong. I had a measure up in the shed of the spare wheel. The offset is actually 29. Therefore the CD66 at 7 inches wide with a 10 offset are going to sit 45mm wider. Now I’m not so sure they’ll fit.

Last two bolts on the rear bumper brackets would not budge, so drastic action was needed. masked around the vicinity VERY carefully ground the head down, and then whacked it through with a punch. The remains pulled out easily with pliers. Now I have to find some more bumper bolts. One of the brackets is very bent also:

Stock is 175sr13 which I believe is equivalent to 175/80 (some say it’s 82). This is an even larger diameter than the 185/70 it’s currently running. 205/60s will make me 6% slower for the same rpm compared to factory. Yes, I would like to get it lower, but not too low. 125T ish stance looks spot on I reckon. Can’t remember what springs you ended up using. Wasn’t it estima or something? Mid engine supercar version or fwd? edit: according to my calculations your 13s are 8.1% slow and your 14s are 9% slow compared to stock size. Also those aren’t exactly common tyre sizes are they?

@azzurro can you speak to the effects of running wider tyres on a 125? I realise with 1,634,210 wheel/tyre combos at your disposal it might prove a challenge to recall meaningful data, but please try...

Me too. Only problem is they are only readily available in 7 inch wide which means a 205/60 and I’m worried a tyre that wide will ruin the way it drives.

It’s coming home soon! As soon as I can get a trailer, good weather and some time organised. I have ordered a swag of miscellaneous parts from fiatparts.co.nz. I also ordered a refurbed bosch alternator for a 124 Spider from Rockauto with a view to going internally regulated. I am also dreaming of some new wheels. So a Poll is in order.. Panasport (minilite style) 13x6, +10 offset Reproduction Cromodora CD30 (available only in 13x5.5) +7 offset, which is the same as the stock steels I think OR Repro CD66 (13x7) +10 offset. I have a favourite, but I’m interested in your thoughts. All 3 sets are available currently on special from Midwest Bayless and would be $1400 landed (plus local GST probably). A bit ouch, but the cheapest I have found on the internet. If any of you have a lead on local (NZ) wheels I’m all ears too.

I can confirm they are the shiz.

If the return of the Fiat is imminent, I should get onto the sundry jobs I need to do before reassembly. The bumpers are one such job. They have a lot of surface rust on the inside (ok, deep surface rust). I removed the brackets and overriders after some soaking time in crc. One bolt is still fighting me. With all the obstructions removed I can wire brush the worst of the rust. I can’t see myself being able to get it right back to clean metal. Suggestions for a good rust killer and sealing coat are welcome. Grot! Once the insides are cleaned up, I can tackle the shiny side. The chrome isn’t perfect, but serviceable. There are marks where the overriders were but I’m hoping a polish will mostly hide them. I want to leave the overriders off permanently because I much prefer the look. Share bumper rejuvenation tips with me in the discussion thread

In the oven, baking the engine bay paint!

Thanks @moparmuppet. Archetype has already responded. However, could a moderator please deport this to my discussion thread?

Another month passed and I get a text to say the fuel flap has been sent to the big smoke for a paint match, and hopefully painting can start next week! Clean slam panel Radiator support panel repaired Behind the left headlight done. New smile

My panel beater is slowly chipping away. The first update came at the 3 month mark, just when I was beginning to think it must have fallen into the Inangahua River. Dent roughed out Also, dirtiest job first-blasting the engine bay. Glad I opted to have this done, as the corrosion under the paint was getting a good foothold. He also fabbed up a new repair section for the chin panel.

Oh, if it only has to look good in a photo, that makes me feel better.

As an aside, I was looking at the number plates a few days ago. The ideal scenario will see the truck re-registered on the original black plates. The front plate will come up mint, but the rear....well, see for yourselves. How have others gotten around this problem? https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/65966-sunbeam’s-land-rover/

So pleased this has gone to a worthy home. I’ve pined every time this thing has come up for sale, but no approval from the finance and acquisitions committee chairwoman.

I got one of these last year off the same crowd. I like it.

I have done nothing with this project of late because I’m hoarding all my pocket money for the Fiat. This morning however, I was cleaning up my shed and thought I would have a go at removing the steering relay. It needs to come out eventually anyway because it’s stuffed. This is not a job for the faint of heart, especially on a dirty, rusty farm truck. Folk have been known to tear the mount tube out of the front crossmember attempting to remove these. I’ve been quietly squirting CRC around it for a while now, and the clamp bolts came out of the top easily. There is also a retaining collar bolted on the underside. Two came out, and two sheared off. Then I got a good look at the area and someone has WELDED the collar to the chassis! Not easy to see in pictures but it’s blobbed on at the front. I have also discovered a crack in the actual crossmember directly forward of the steering relay. This old thing has had a really hard life! Project abandoned again for a while.

I tried to get mackley’s to shift a container 2 years ago. It went like this.. “have an account with us?” No. “GTFO” +1 for hiab though. Side lift is quite limiting

Wow, that does look high when you see it like that.

I would normally NEVER say this, but it will need a little slam and some wide Revolutions....

Shit my brain hurts from reading that ad. Any luck getting the paperwork?

This is sooo cool. I approve wholeheartedly. I often wondered how those small wheel TKs go. When I was a young fella, my mate’s big wheel farm tk (diesel) would cruise at 70km/h (earmuffs required). It was replaced with a (Hino) Ford N1317, and the poor old beddy probably ended up rotting away in some farm rubbish pit.

Wife and kids are away so I ripped into the family bus. It has broken swirl flaps in the intake, and they’re stuck shut. Shit I hate working on diesels, I look like a coal miner now. Anyway, since I had all 5 injectors out to get the valve cover/intake manifold off I thought I would phone DSL and see how much to get the injectors cleaned/tickled up. He asked me how many kms it’s done, and when I replied just over 300k, he said “ha ha ha ha ha HA!” Now, I don’t think that’s a very helpful attitude. Has anyone dealt with a diesel outfit in Canterbury who might be more helpful? Anyway I’m going to chuck them back in with new copper sealing washers for now. Did I mention how shit EGR is?

Did this Delivered to at home panel beater in the boonies. Went well , but somewhere between Culverden and Springs Junction the front strop snapped and luckily the handbrake kept it from rolling off the back of the trailer! Double luckily I had spare straps. Got a backload mainly to stop the trailer rattling as it does when empty. Kahikatea logs. Was a lot heavier than the Fiat!

Good to know. Sounds like a ballache. How did the re-vin people know the deck wasn’t always mounted like that?