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fletch

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Everything posted by fletch

  1. Spray brake clean backwards throught he injectors while powering them up to get any shit out too
  2. Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy. How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too
  3. Have you got the rubber/plastic bits on top of the springs inside the crossmember? Mayne you have them both on 1 side or 1 missing
  4. I ground a chunk of steel to hammer into the nut to free it up Then had to cut all of the rubber off the old hanger and press the bearing off. The new one should have gone straight on and I blindly slapped it on with the F facing the front. However, the F is supposed to face the back and the price was jammed on. It took a hour to get it off without fucking it. Fortunately the new bearing came with a new nut as that was fucked too. Haha. Reinstalled the driveshaft and also a trigger wheel to get driveshaft speed for the ecu and 4wd controller I am going to run.
  5. Spent the last few nights in the shed on the premise of getting a datsun ready to go to nats, but got a bit sidetracked on this. Speedo fixed Then I removed the driveshaft to swap for the less 2nd hand one I have in stock. While I was in there I noticed the rear diff cover had been leaking and was covered in shit and thought I better do something about it now rather than later when it runs out of oil. I whipped the back cover off and spent hours with a Stanley blade shaving the original paper gasket that had set like rock. The drain plug magnet was broken into a few bits so that got replaced with a donor from a smashed gearbox. Then I needed to replace the centre bearing on the driveshaft. It's a cnut of a job.
  6. Yes 30 and 87 Have you got it wired up as per the pic? Maybe move the yellow wire to ign. The relay hasn't got any trickery in it where it auto cuts out as it warms up. Maybe your yellow wire which is now sense if you have jumped it as per above, hasn't got a great connection to 12v. Plus it will always be on as its connected to battery and ground.
  7. It goes past 180 and keeps going to the zero stop. Maybe that one time I went to Mexico and spent some time there, it loaded up the cable too much.
  8. Had a bit of a dismantle under the dash today. Need to fit the correct clutch pedal and bracket and also swap around the brake pedal from the (poorly) cut down auto one I was running. Ended up pulling the column as I'm old and inflexible. How the fuck did I get up and under here when I first had this car ill never know. Also got a new rubber boot for the column to keep the engine bay fumes out. A long time ago just before either parked it up to go overseas, the speedo stopped working. I always thought it was the dodgy speedo drive I modified. Turns out it was the cable New one on order. 3 weeks from Japan. Will give me an excuse to tidy up under the dash properly.
  9. Picked up the car tonight from a mate who's great with a welder. He did the ally fab below and the exhaust. I ended up packing the engine mount up 3mm on the passenger side to get some turbo clearance and I might pay the strut tower a little visit from Mr hammer later on. Need to get a bunch of hose clamps, and a few more silicon joiners to for the piping, and some finessing of a few places where things are close. Then oil and fuel hoses.
  10. Would the larger valves on the smaller bore suffer from shrouding being so close to the bore and negate the larger valve size? semi related, on L24 datsuns, the valve notch has to cut into the bore. So you could do it!
  11. Do you have many other high speed inputs on the link? I think I read that that while they can read up to 10khz, if you have have a few high speed inputs, the max frequency each input can process drops. Could have my wires crossed, I was doing some research into which ecu to run and read it somewhere. Was to do with people trying to run all 4 abs sensors to digital inputs and maxing out the processing ability of the ecu
  12. For the top ball joint boots, just go to repco/napa/supercheap/butler auto mart etc, and ask to have a hunt through their boot selection. I found all of the sizes for my 230 at maybe repco.
  13. is it the 5 speed trans? look up compushift. they make a controller for it but it only works with the trans that has the external computer. Some of them are internal and they are the shit ones
  14. 2 steps forward, 3 backwards today. It's too tight I'll have to modify the cooling line which is ok, but the compressor is only a few mm off the strut tower. I believe I have the correct manifold so further investigation is required Dammit
  15. New clutch bearing. The old one was for my old Japanese twin plate and was for really long clutch plate fingers. I'm not sure where the new one came from, I found it on the shelf Then, since I was on a roll I put the box on the motor, set up the subframe on stands under the car and balanced the motor on top. Not dodgy at all
  16. Finished the fuel lines. Extended the factory brackets to make it all fit nicely. Ignore the tube that shoots off into space. I'll trim it once the motor is in. Next up was the flywheel and clutch. I replaced the sandwich plate as the manual ones come with a rubber seal that keeps the leaky rear main oil off the flywheel I have a folded piece of scrap still that I didn't take a photo of that jams the flywheel nicely. Looks like I forgot to take a few pics. I also did up the crank pulley bolt to FT. It needs 240ftlb which was tricky when you are also trying to not tip the motor over!
  17. Made up the oil feed line to the vct solenoid. Well, actually I reused the line I made years ago, but made a new oil restrictor for it. It's fed from the oil pressure sensor port. I'll use one of the ports on the remote filter housing for the sender. The previous restrictor was no good so I needed to make another one. I don't have a lathe but found a brass electrical fitting in my van and it was the right size. Drilled a 1.3mm hole in it Drilled a bit of a recess into this swagelok fitting Bit of a nudge with a punch, et viola. Mint It's maybe not the most suitable method of doing it, but I work with swagelok tube a lot so the price was right. Also rekitted the PS pump and fitted a new pulley with the correct offset to suit my crank pulley. Only took a few pics so nothing exciting there
  18. Just re-read what ya said. Yea just jam your rcd lead into the inverter. It will give you rcd protection, and the the pdf for that inverter says it has ground fault protection, so your double protected. I would bond the inverter to the frame of the hut and your all good.
  19. If you are plugged into the inverter it's basically a closed system. An earth peg is not necessary. If you have rcd's in your hut, you should bond the inverter body to an earth peg and ensure the earth and neutral is connected inside the inverter. It can, but it shouldn't be done inside the DB of your hut as then it can't be plugged into a mains connected supply without causing rcd rcd tripping issues.
  20. What kind of solar inverter have you got? Is it panels => 230v? Or is it panels => battery => 230v inverter? You can't run the first option without some kind of battery storage. Usually on a little cabin like that, you have the incoming earth bonded to the metal part of the structure as well as wired to all the power points.
  21. Nissan didn't come through with the goods on the fuel line clamps. I got 2 out of 9 and it appears they are discontinued so I'll have to refurbish what I have. Fuel tank is in Next is the turbo water lines. I wanted the return to go straight to the radiator. Only rb26 goes to the water outlet on the inlet manifold. All the rest of the RB turbos go back to the heater return around the back of the block. It's pretty busy behind there on a 30 due to the extra height, so I made up some hard lines using the left over 3/8 tube I had. Water feed here under the manifold. The return snakes behind the timing belt cover. I tapped a hole into the water passage under the inlet manifold. Thankfully it was cast in Japan out of recycled datsun cylinder heads, not old cans by that barefoot Indian guy on those Facebook videos. I need a p clamp on one of the pipes and then I can put all the covers on and chuck the engine in. Maybe another few weeks..
  22. Sounds like that's always been there from factory. Especially since it's the same colour and covered in road grime and what not from many years of driving etc
  23. Next chob is the fuel tank. I had a factory tin tank that went rotten with old fuel so I got a larger plastic gtr one cheap a while back. Also can use early 4wd turbo stagea tank for far less gtr tax. But as its larger the straps don't reach. @tortron will be pleased to hear I used the front half of a wingroad tank strap welded to the rear gts4 strap There were pretty much both the same. Fortunately the 4wd body has the captive nuts for both sizes of tank so it was an easy fit. Will paint them tomorrow and that's a job done. I got some cupro-nickel 3/8 line for the fuel lines. I ran it where the old hicas lines go. They were long gone when I got the car which is a shame as they can be adapted to use as fuel lines. I did have an old 3/8 bundy fuel supply line that I made years ago but it is also full of shabby fuel and gone all crusty. Ethanol sensor about here in the return line Done Some of the factory clips are stuffed so I have ordered them. Just need to put fittings on the end of the tube and it's done.
  24. Here's a 45deg fitting not screwed in. A "short" time later Purchasing the rips sump adapter vs using my own original one just about paid for itself in not having to remove and clean up all the rtv, then reapply it in the correct rfb manner. Red, and about 5x more than necessary so it can squeeze out everywhere incl the oil pickup. So that's all back together. Maybe tomorrow I'll make up the turbo drain line and vct drain.
  25. From factory the front springs are longer on the drivers side. Maybe swap the springs from side to side to even it up?
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