vk327

Good day on the dyno engine run in went well few teething issues with the e throttle PID control making 190rwkw just under 9psi of boost, running a bit of water meth up top rapidly dropped the intake temps from 35degrees down to 24. Will dial in some more boost later once clutch has bedded in properly. Time to get a wof tomorrow and enjoy it.

More progress photos, also got the calais dash in and working and modified the dash switches to a series parallel resistor ladder for cruise control inputs

Been busy getting everything back together, got it all running again on the monsoon and run the cam in with new lifters after finding a cracked lifter face. Alot of work into building a custom cam pickup for sequential triggering built the new wiring loom for the xtreme and fitted it all up last week, made up mount for the LS coils, adaptor for the e-throttle and mount for the pedal. Off for dyno run in time and tune tomorrow

Real impressed at Marsh motorsports turn around at this time of year, only a week to have it all ready to go, bored, honed, decked, crank crack tested & polished, ring gaps and bearing clearances set and the rotating assembly all balanced Got the bottom end all assembled need to find my cam card to dial that back in. And cause I'm not busy enough already have decided to go full sequential and drive by wire throttle with a link xtreme so now onto new wiring loom build and setting up a custom cam sensor for sequential sync signal

Replacement block heading off to Marsh motorsport this week for machining and rotating assembly balancing, gone to a new clutch with a sprung plate to make it nicer on the street. Got distracted on a side quest, vk calais digital dash popped up on market place. Not cheap but so much 80s cool. Gonna set it up all running off ecu outputs maybe a canbus io module, so it will be fully functional including fuel used & distance to empty and can calibrate it so it reads right

youll find most auto sparky supply places are trade only wholesalers (might get the occasional one whos cash sale friendly) most of the stuff i get is thru pan pacific JAS or napa, but trade accounts, MSEL have a good range of more motorsport specific stuff but not general Auto elect. I can do parts supply from my trade accounts, if you know what your after i can get you prices/quote as needed

got a standard bore replacement block with a mint crank , will probably be cleaning up and reusing pistons based on engine machinist recommendation, will replace if necessary. identified cause of failure as the fuel reg not regulating pressure properly so new turbosmart reg is on the way, just got pricing back from marsh Motorsport for machining with a 2 week turnaround so might have it back together before xmas if im lucky

Came so close to dropping my turbo barra in this... but just picked up this somewhat ugly looking 3.3 should work for what I need only 120k on it, stripped it down, small mark in no5 but hopefully my 030 over pistons can clean up and bore to suit with new rings, crank looks good so should get away with a polish balance and re assemble On a side note can see why the factory piston used to break the skirts off

Well torn it all apart, alot of wear for a motor with 5000k on it glazed bores,ring gaps are all over the place some are +52 thou others around 30, bearings have all had shit go thru them no6 bore is trashed massive fuel contamination in the oil gonna be a new block needed now I think the noise was coming from crank slapping overfill sump from the fuel in the oil

have a chat to trevor at holden diagnostics, you might be able to talk him into setting up the memcal you have in your current ecu, hes still does all my v6 and v8 memcal stuff

Well after so much progress on this thing and booking it for dyno tune tomorrow, it gives me a swift kick in the nuts... had it running Saturday everything fine bled coolant all good... took it for a drive last night all seeming well pulled back into the shed and a weird rattling noise getting louder and oil pressure at idle dropped to 12psi, chasing it around with the screwdriver on the earmuff stethoscope. jacked it up and hello Rodney knocking sound from the sump. Shut it off and drained the sparkly oil out all 6.5 litres, weird I only put 4.2 in there so I think an injector is stuffed and may have hydrauliced a cylinder. Mates coming round tomorrow to give me motorvation to pull the engine out and contemplate it's future.

Had a few hours free after a customer wiring job so smashed out the 3" stainless exhaust, no Instagram welds here but tidy enough best part it doesn't hit anywhere... Also how good does the paint look in the evening light

From memory the drier is mounted on front of the condenser on the in these, the tank is just a receiver/accumulator just needs to be vertically mounted lines can be routed to suit

e85 injectors will be specced larger flow than pump gas for the same engine capacity, injectors are easily scaled in the ecu the whole point of a flex sensor is to tell the ecu ethanol content and it can change fuel pulse width (and timing) to suit, doesn't need to be a straight e85 or 98 deal either, it will interpolate between the 2 based on % ethanol content, a bit more involved at tuning as will need to tune both pump gas and e85. would recommend running a wide band o2 so can use close loop fuel trims as well

will need cam trigger, normally something like a 36-1 (i think those falcon engines are 60-2 on factory trigger) wheel on the crank and a 1 tooth cam sync signal to allow sequential injection/ignition, without the cam sync will only be batch fire and wasted spark as it has no reference to sync no1 cylinder, probablly wont see a huge benefit from e85 unless it has massive compression and timing is knock limited. on an NA engine maybe 20-30% more over pump gas, would be worth running a flexfuel sensor so can tune to run either or a mix of e85 and pump gas. the link storm is fully configurable as to injection/ignition mode so just a setting change to go from batch/wasted spark to full sequential(with appropriate sensors wired) side note with reluctor 2 wire trigger sensors you need to make sure polarity is correct or will get timing drift (see the link help file for info)