ajg193

I just checked the Haynes manual for you. "Installation is the reverse of removal." I hope that helps. Next customer please.

The remaining pistons have proven to be high quality and free of defects, ideal for use in your next build

Good news about the injector situation

Looks a bit big for me

That page reads like it was written by an activist

What is defined as a recognised spring manufacturer? Any ltd company that advertises spring manufacturing? Last time Alex did a write up on his spring modification adventures for the Viva he showed that he heated the ends, bent them down and then ground them to look OEM. I guess this would be illegal if detected by cert inspection?

Spent a few hours turning some scrappy Rimu into a bed frame for the spare room. Now need to find a mattress from somewhere. Also eventually need to make a head board to suit the holes from the wood's previous life

Just as the prophecy foretold!

One feed to multiple injectors, one ground per injector?

Deadtime is supposedly affected by fuel pressure so in theory you might start to have a little difficulty in getting consistent results at low loads but in practice it is probably minimal?

Yep. On my engine I have a 2 port thing on the plenum - one goes to MAP and the other goes to FPR. Seems to be a pretty common thing on Toyota

Yeah just holds the throttle for that barrel closed until air flow demands counter the weight and it opens up

Wof sticker going from $2 to $5 somehow makes wof go up $20? Are there other fees they have to pay for entering a wof in the system? (I've heard rumours it is like $40, which would make it hard to survive as wof inspector)

Is that massive rust above relay block?

Yay, we did it exactly according to the approved procedure on Andrew's subframe and suspension. I particularly like the images in that Tech Bulletin - super pixelated when showing defects but clear as day for a finished job.....

And the tale continues. After he spent $250 on parts fixing the front brakes one of the back ones seized up on the test drive today. He's gonna have to spend some time tomorrow rebuilding the calipers and pads

Wasn't known loose but we hadn't been near that bolt so was therefore loose for a while. I wouldn't ever drive with loose or knocking suspension. Anyway, here is what it looks like after Andrew cleaned the area that is worse than the Titanic

Andrew has been working on cleaning off the surface rust and recoating with some black zinc. Literally no pitting at all. I fail to see how the corrosion is a safety issue if it can be fixed with paint. Will sort the brakes out this week and then take it back. I think the main issue is that they just pump the wofs out at full speed so never actually stop to closely inspect anything. When I got him to put it onto the hoist to show me the "completely corroded" suspension mounts on the subframe I immediately pointed out that the nut holding the lower control arm to the car was loose (and had been loose since before Andrew got the car). How the inspector could possibly have missed it is beyond my comprehension.

Yuriys WoF - he was saying he was burnt by rust last year. Andrew is currently going over the whole bottom half of the car with a wire brush and will give it some black zinc paint afterwards. Literally only surface rust, looks a whole lot better after a quick brushing off. /It will be good for Andrew to learn some more practical skills and protect the car at the same time. Who does brake rotor skimming around here? The front rotors are pretty bad but still have 95% wear available so should get away with a skim and new pads. Alternatively he can just spend a few buck and use my trade account to get new rotors

The black area under the cv boot is supposedly so rusty that the suspension will fall apart

Wof fails for surface rust on suspension arms and subframe. Is this a thing these days? Not even pitting, bubbling or scabs. Just surface rust. The mechanic told Andrew he would have to scrap the car as it is not worth fixing. I went back with him and they put the car on the hoist to show me the rust. What they claimed was rust on the firewall was just cavity wax. What they claimed was insane rust on the subframe was just a buildup of oil leaks and stones over years. They said the wheel was about to fall off - no way in hell at all. A quick buff and coat of paint and it would be literally as new. /They should really have failed the car on rust around the windscreen though but they didn't even mention it.

Nah, ABS light was on for some other reason. The systems are all independent in these Mazdas. We managed to steal a speedo sensor from a V6 4WD car - Amayama reckoned the 2WD and 4WD ones were the same but in real life they are actually different and the 2WD one is hard to get to. ABS fault was cleared by jumping two pins in the diagnostic box, then turning key on and waiting for a while before jumping on the brake pedal 10 times in less than 10 seconds and then shutting everything down and removing jumper. The ABS light hasn't come back on since. About a day after that the radiator started leaking, so we got a new tank put on it and core cleaned out. Two days later the battery gave up completely, new battery sorted that. Car is going well now, Andrew will take it in for a WoF tomorrow.

I use these https://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-210cc-min-high-resistance-top-feed-fuel-injector/

Turns out the speedo sensor is on the centre diff. Pulled it out, it feels chunky to turn and oscilloscope says no output. Will have to go to pick a part tomorrow and buy another one. In other news, the ABS light is on now. What a garbage car.

It's electric, looking at parts diagrams on amayama the pulse generator is not the Speedo source. There is a second drive further along the gearbox somewhere. The workshop manual for this is absolute garbage compared to Toyota. I will try finding the drive tonight, most likely just crap in the connection