BLIZZO

no idea, probably not that much tho, not exactly a huge demand for bare k50 gear sets

Umm his name is Stu, he is on here, was the blue 4agte ep70 starlet, does anyone know his username? i know snoozin knows him, he did some wiring on his starlet for him i think. One of the gearsets was literally brand new, had done zero km by the looks of it.

well the bad news was that the above "TRD close ratio gearkit" turned out to actually be just a standard K50 gearkit so that went back and i got my money back, wasn't the sellers fault as he was misinformed when he received it etc, cheers Stu for being an honest chap and taking it back. So last week i was quite busy on the car and as a result didnt get many photos but i got the coilovers finished, guesstimated the springs to be about 150-160kg so about right for the starlet. Becuase the struts are longer they gave the car some positive camber so some bug eye steering knuckles courtesy of Andy C sorted that out and they are now neutral, at some stage ill do longer bottom arms to get a wee bit more negative but probs not as it handles and turns in really well now. They other thing i did the night before my event on saturday was put in a quaife quick rack, this is one of the coolest mods i have done so far and makes such a huge difference, the steering is now 2 turns lock to lock rather than the standard 3.5 and it drives like an absolute go kart, check out the video below and see the minimal steering input compared to my previous videos, it is much much safer to drive hard. The rack is a AE86 quaife quick rack and pinion from palmside.co.nz and was very easy to modify to go into the starlet rack, its very obvious when you put them next to each other but all it needs was i think 32mm off the long side of the rack to make it the same length as the starlet rack, then drill a new hole and tap it in the end for the rack end to screw into and your sorted.org.nz. I got a new bearing for the pinion rather that try deal with swapping the old one over. So for the event on saturday just been i have new suspension, 15mm castor, slight neg camber and a quick rack and the car is now much easier and very fun to drive, particularly on the tight flowing sections of road. Saturdays sprint was a 4.9km gravel sprint on Tararua road, run by the Danniverke car club. It was good to have Rhys there in the KE20 to have something to aim for and bench mark myself against. The car was struggling with gearing again, 2nd gear was to slow in road speed and high in the revs for a lot of the flowing stuff but the car was bogging and not revving in 3rd, it needs either a 5.1 diff and ignore first gear or a close ratio box quite bad, watching rhys's video i can see how the box helps so much (apart from getting off the line). I was super stoked to be close to him in my first run, then actually got about 2 seconds on him in the second run but he put down a solid 3rd run and got me by 3 seconds. Im really happy to be close to him like that tho and it shows the changes to the car have helped, also stoked that the both of us took down a couple of 4age powered cars in our little 4K's. well here's a few photos courtesy of Jeff Wells, ill buy some final res shots off him at some stage. And a video i banged together of run 2 (outcar) and run 3 (incar), bloody youtube decreased the quality heaps tho which sucks a bum.

Man I wish my starlet would do 200kmph, I'd be winning my class all the time!

Depends how much you do yourself? If you have the whole thing to an engine builder you could spend 5-6k doing that pretty easily but parts wise it would be appx Cam - $300 Valve springs $200 Crank work $300 Bearings $200-400 Head skim $100 Gaskets $100 If your dad was a mechanic he could do the assembly I guess, but while your at it you would most likely drop appx 200-300 on block machining and say 400 on new Pistons and rings. Then once doing that it would pay to upgrade the carb to something like a 28/32 weber and that would doesn't include any head porting which you won't want on a small port 3knas well so there's another $600 easy.. So yea around $2600 plus a carb so more than likely you would sink over 3k as shits always dearer than what you think.

a good cam, twin valve springs, compression ratio to match and some balancing will get it seeing 7-7.5 and being happy. Dont rev it to eight unless spending lots of money as it will break all of the things.

righto quick question for those in the know of suspension / steering geometry. I have brought a quaife ae86 quick rack which needs to be machine 50mm shorter to be the same size as the starlet rack, 25mm each side. What i am wondering is i want to get slightly longer bottom arms to give a bit of negative camber and a slightly wider track. I was thinking rather than modify the arms i could re plate and move the hole forward on the mount on the cross member, in theory this will change the pivot point giving increased bump steer yes? Lets say i moved the hole 8mm out (is this too much neg camber?) could i counter this pivot point change by only machining the rack by 17mm each side so that the rack is 8mm longer on each side than a standard rack. My way of thinking says this will change both pivot points so i dont get bumpsteer and at the same time not reduce by lock that would happen by lengthening he bottom arms and not the rack. Am i right, am i wrong, help please

Hey man was trying to pm you but it says you can't receive messages. couple of questions anyway, I want to put a quick rack in my rally kp61, did you use one of the Quaife ae86 racks from palmside? What mods did you have to do to make it fit? Also I'm just building coilovers at the moment using the standard struts, you said they are pug rotors you have on yours, what model of pug? And what calipers are you using up front? Do they fit under a 13" rim? Did you just fab those brackets for the calipers or did you draw them and get them cut? All of the questions. Cheers

i love that the kid got greedy trying to sell it and you hussled the fuck out of him and got it way cheaper via trademe than your original offer off trademe. good work son

Sooooo, unicorn shit has been aquired. Genuine TRD new old stock (thants right brand new) k50 close ratio gear kit. And not only one kit, but two, although the second is missing 5th gear, got lost someone in its last 30 years of storage. So pine right now

cool, yea the driveway where we were starting was the old house, we raced down the road 1km, around a cone and back up and finished back at the house. Awesome bit of road for spectators

so after the weekends event and deciding i def need some decent front suspension so got started on my coilovers. The bilsteins are too long for the starlet tubes which is ideal cos i want a taller strut to do the opposite of everyone else on this forum so im going to use the mitsi tube over the starlet tube. I got some standard starlet struts to cut up thanks to the guys and olds-cool autos. Cutty cutty and very conveniently the OD of the starlet tube fits perfectly inside the mitsi tube. so I have the mitsi tube slotted over 80mm of the starlet tube to give it enough strength. It will be welded around the bottom and plug welded in 4-6 spots by someone that can actually weld as these will need to be road legal. all mocks up alright, just need to get it welded. Pretty keen to do a brake upgrade while im at it as the starlet ones are not the best.

Elite have been great in my dealings with them, try edge performance or whatever they are called, think the sell them for stock cars etc

Yea take well more than you need to out, I bet you some of that steel looks good on the outside but will be rusting on the inside

to rodney? lush, let as know what it makes, if its lush its motiviation for me to try increase my horses etc / pull more than 6 grand

So i had my second event in this thing on saturday. Was really happy with how it went, was a cool little piece of road albeit quite short. Had Rhys there in the KE20 so had another a class car to try and chase but never even expected to be even close to him but my fastest time was only 1 second a km off so must be doing something right. I managed to nip a couple of 4age powered cars and KB1700, the pinto powered mk1 escort. Car is still running stock suspension all around and def needs fiddling, all the other starlets had modified sway bars to add more castor in the front and custom bottom arms to get more neg camber and increase front track width so im starting on my coilovers now. anyway a couple of videos, excuse the crappy camera quality. O and it was a rolling start also.

ooo startup sounds good, pineing to see how this engine goes, have you done the important things such as running in the cam etc

P10 are lush, need new bottom support mounts welded on and new top straps made, battery can foul on the filler neck too apparently but mine is in the back anyway

Hey man I have the single 45 dcoe I pulled off the starlet when I put twins on it, will work out a price for ya

The zetec conversion sump along is like almost 2 grand

Man i hope this post goes to a new page. Anyway i have inherited Mitch W's unknown suspension out of his yellow car because he is way to stance for coilovers that actually have travel. Still dont know what they are out of other than its something Mitsi Im probably not going to use the strut tubes as theres not a sensible way to get them legal so im going to rob all the bits off them and adapt them to some starlet tubes. sorry for super fuzzy photo but my camera is having a mare as the threaded lower spring mount will have a larger ID than the starlet tube OD does anyone know if it would be OK for cert reasons to have a sleeve with a step on it welded and plug welded to the tube, that the threaded spring mount bit would slide over and sit on? at the moment they are not welded, but rather have a ring welded to the tube that they rest agaisnt. I will want to get it legal for rally purposes so will need to be crack tested etc. as soon as i got the things home i noticed the very very thick shafts and thought hmm they look like group 4 spec Bilsteins, whazaaa i was right they also have much bigger than starlet but still fit inside a 13" rim calipers and vented rotors, so will attempt to make them fit also, im guessing i will need bugeye steering arms but luckily i have a set of those hanging out in the spare parts department. so now i just need to find a set of starlet strut tubes for very cheap monies, as i want to keep the stock pair for spares in case i break something mid rally.

pretty much if you are trying to do things on a budget stick to level that you want thoughout, as in dont go far above your weakest link. Ie - no point in a massive cam if you dont have a good matching compression ratio / valve sizes etc. I would think 90 should be achievable, i got 64hp at the wheels with my 1300 pushrod starlet with just a bit of porting, a very very mild cam (i need bigger, its my weakest link) a bit more compression and twin sidies. One thing to note if you do go to sidies make sure they run small enough venturis, people use ones to big and lose all their low down power. If you are doing work to the head dont polish it, no one polishes ports anymore for good reason. also dont be a butcher and make your ports too big, you lose to much port velocity and in turn bottom end.

I hate gilmers on 4ks, they sound gay as shit because the cars are actually slow, they are expensive, and as said the fuck alternator bearings. If you wanted it to sound slash go better throw the crappy coby extractors in the scrap metal bin, they actually flow less than a stock twin pipe cast manifold. Or spend 500 having Sheldon Rush make a set of his super lush 4-2-1 tuned length headers. That's the way to go and is what my rally car will be getting when I have some spare coin

Great thing of being the only person in your class, did manage to beat a ke25 Corolla with 4age, a mirage and a beautiful sd1 rover though, chuck up some picks - vids joker, my incar was super shit cos of the sun

Yea man daybreaker / wairarapa isn't going ahead this year and neither is Hawkes bay by the looks so I'm gunna come give tga clubmans a hoon.