h4nd

Looks good to me. Carry on! (Disclaimer, I only join metal with 60/40 solder)

Rotate the cable receiver 90deg so it's axle/pivot is horizontal, then stuff under and between the trumpets on the left? Your link rod would then run from left to right in your second pic, and push against the springs from the left, rather then pull against from the right. Hmm, though you'd have to rotate the arm on the throttle pivot away from the engine anyways.

Oh, and there was left hook 60's(?) Ovlov wags with a high mileage club sticker, and a hipster with a cool old 3l porka passed through while we were there.

David could you throw a piece of that stuff under a blowtorch or hold in a lighter flame and tell us what happens.. I'll grab a few rolls if you can test its ability to not melt Oh yeah, and film pls

Was cool, Poms do nice beer / pork crackling. Was a laugh watching black smoke racing and power skids.

Internet monies? Dogecoin anyone?

Will be at Pomeroys at the appointed hour, prolly bring the 1100, with new ugly indicator(s).

About 5 years. ish. Dang, some of your photos over on the build thread have fallen off the internet.

Interestingly, got a woffle for my GSXR y'day too. (may need vaguely legit transport while sorting the Dai).

You implying I have a 2T deez? Heh.

I'm thinking it's pinged a ring end. I specifically asked engine builder about the exhaust port chamfer, so if it's that, I will be livid. I happen to have RUNAMUCK's bore scope, so I can have a looksie tomorrow.

Then, today on the drive to work, there's a "Toing!" noise, and a high pitched "zzzz" that alters with engine revs. I've had a look in the top, and plug #1 contained this: It's about 2mm x 1mm x 1mm, and gets picked up by a magnet. Engine builder has requested I not drive it, and bring it to him... I'm really not optimistic about this.

preview here: About 2mmx1mmx1mm, and magnetic (not aluminium).

The 360 need a tuneup, 'cause my buttometer was telling me it was 5-10hp in arrears. I happened to have access to a portable oscilloscope, so here's the results from last weekend Here's the -ve terminal of the ignition coil. It's a 4 lobe cam, so 4.5 divisions x 5ms x 4 lobes = 90ms per rev. 1/ 0.090 = 11.1 rev / s * 60s/min = 666rpm at idle. Problem is that the points are closed for ~12.5 ms / 22.5ms, thus ~55%, thus 55/100 * 90 degrees = 49.5 degrees. Dwell angle is supposed to be 47 degrees (Working from memory, will check later). This is the same adjustment, but revving faster. The timebase of the scope has been set to 2ms, and you can see the 'ringing' AC as the energy sloshes from the inductance in the coil to the capacitor on the points when the points open. I got in there with a feeler gauge, and the gap was around 0.25mm. You can't see the top of the waveform in these pics, but the peak voltage is 150 - 200V (yep, on the Low Tension side) and gets multiplied by the coil / transformer ratio for the HT side, thus 150V x100 = ~15kV. Usual insulation gaps are around 1kV / mm, so thats getting a bit iffy. The manual for the engine says 0.3mm - 0.5mm gap. I polished the faces of the points to get them square (they form points and dips because of ion material transfer), and set to a shade over 0.3mm. This gave the waveforms below. Basically, you can see they're low (closed, i.e. dwell angle) a shade over 1/2 the time, and now meet the spec. A little grease on the dizzy cam lobes for good luck (it was dry), and then on to timing. Because I can turn over the engine by hand, I put a rod on the piston, and checked that the timing mark on the crank pulley was correct. Then I turned on the ignition, and rocked the engine to see where the points opened. This was easy, a nice satisfying snap from the HT as they do (don't run your HT open, kids, the V's can get too high. I had plugs fitted.) The ignition had been about 8mm too advanced (I'll work out that timing sometime later) and when set to factory spec, the machine was transformed. It now starts easier, a bad hesitation in mid-range is gone, and it revs out in the 50-60mph range much cleaner. Detail. It's all in attention to detail.

Neat, Optical scan those window stickers, you'll be able to clean up / reprint

goog: The maximum adiabatic flame temperature a propane torch can achieve with air is 1,995 °C (3,623 °F).

Odd, that web address looks a lot like irex-jp.com, who I've had good results from via Alex / moonlight. Lot's of crown bits here http://www.irex-jp.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/100_91?PHPSESSID=11227db7b81edddedae67628e3c0a155 (use google chrome to translate, or translate.google.com) but no pistons, sorry. None of those lovely Jun kits fit? http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/customkit/lineup.en.html These guys list em, none in stock? http://www.supertoyotaparts.com/oe-toyota/1310145011?search_str=13101-45011 http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/1310145011 http://oemparter.com/oem-parts/1310145011.html ...or add big head gasket for lower compression and add turbocharger?

Odd, that web address looks a lot like irex-jp.com, who I've had good results from via Alex / moonlight. Lot's of crown bits here http://www.irex-jp.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/100_91?PHPSESSID=11227db7b81edddedae67628e3c0a155 (use google chrome to translate, or translate.google.com) but no pistons, sorry. None of those lovely Jun kits fit? http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/customkit/lineup.en.html HTH Edit: Crown? Why did I think Crown? Oh other thread...

Keep me posted, I think I'm wearing out the tweezers I use to adjust mine, and an electronic upgrade might make sense for me too.

Love the idea of leaving it rat, except maybe bling the wheels / bumpers / body chrome? For the juxtaposition.

I had points trouble 'cos I had a standard coil in the Dai, and it doesn't run a ballast resistor. Was running quite warm. Lots of spark, but chewing out the points. When I changed to the proper 12V coil (SU12, ), it all calmed down. http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Bosch-Ignition-Coil-SU12.aspx?pid=0580#Recommendations At 14V instead of 9V you're getting ~50% more current through the coil (if the inductance saturates), and the uF of the condenser won't soak up all of the arcing on the points. Worse, because the spike voltage when the points break is Ek = 1/2 L i2, you may be getting 1.5x 1.5x the voltage appearing on the points. i.e. up to 225%, depending on the other factors. My Dai makes 150-200V spike on the 12V coil primary (thus also at the points) with the proper 12V coil; hate to think what it was with the standard ballast type coil. The higher resistance (3.6) on the GT40 coil suggests it'll better suit 12V no ballast R, but they have 3 variations of this coil, and they don't publish all the specs like R, L, ratio etc BTW, if the ignition is on, and the points are closed (engine not turning), the GT40 coil will pass 12V / 3.6R = 3.3A, which sounds not too bad. This will go up when running as the alt bumps the volts to 13.8 - 14.5V charge V, but down because it'll only be connected part of the time, and the inductive property of the coil causes the current to take time to build up. For interest, the "Blaster" will pass ~10A with the points closed and no rotation, so about 10A x 12V = about 120W into the coil, and all that 10A thru the points. HTH

OS BMW repairer Bart needed some electrons donated. I thought the Dai would work OK, cause the regulater has crept up to ~14.7V, but it wasn't happening in the 10 minutes we tried. Oh well, onwards. Better leads required?

So I'm having a derp, and may not be in town for Skope. I can however offer a sacrificial BBQ, which it turns out, works fine. Off with it's ankles? attach plate for towbar bolt? wheelbarrow chassis? Something collapsable so it goes in a boot? Add gas, sausages, steak, don't forget the fried onions.

It's the little things that count. I had a little time, so I thought I'd get out and have a look at the ignition. While I was in there, I noticed the new engine / cooling system is leaking coolant. In behind the grille, behind the manifold / expansion chamber, behind the first waterpump hose, is the second waterpump hose. On that is the hose clip, which was approximately finger tight. Owning one of these cars makes a person appreciate a good 1/4" socket set. Other loose hose clips were located and snugged up.

Yeah, Softstarters / VSDs are great in some systems, but the response time you mention makes the vanes sound good. OR tune the control loop frequency (latency). PID might do it. Cables he's talking about prolly refers to shielding.