h4nd

9 months later. There's been moving, Nats in Coromandel, but mostly just dailying the shit out of this baby. I drove it to Hamner meet, and it crated Bigfoot back shotgun like a charm. It's still a shade down on hp. On discussions with Goat, he's suggested it's the labyrinth seal between the crank spaces (the only one I couldn't replace) may be weak. This isn't a major, and may even help protect the engine from over-revving damage, but time will tell. I now have a better workshop, and may pull it down to eyeball the exhaust port shape, per above. There's a few other maintenance items creeping in. The front shock / alignment needs attention, it's steers a bit like your grand-mother's tea-trolley, but it's running well enough to be fun commuting. And, a fine chap sold me a motor, after seeing it at the McLeans Island swap meet. More spares to strip/clean/sort! I may have 2 complete spare motors now (which starts the imagination on alternative uses).

Philae lander bounces animation. They were luck it ended up vaguely upright... http://www.esa.int/spaceinvideos/content/view/embedjw/461001

Bummer. Do these fail in the same place each time? If it's the end of the block, would it help to plane the head or block convex concave by ~1/4mm to 'pinch' that section of the HG? Or, if it's more random, would putting a 10mm steel plate about the shape of the BHG under the rocker cover keep the head flatter, thus help keep HG sealed? It's still such a sweet build, man.

You're all welcome, nice to catch up, chat. Now for a welder I don't really need...

Garage/shed christened. No probs, was all short notice.

Maaan, you got it baaad.

Well for starters, my garage will be a somewhat watertight shambles tomorrow night. Come drink beers / charcoal BBQ with me to celebrate. 'Cos life is short, and any excuse, right? Say 6pm Sunday, at my new place 2/82A Mackworth St, off Ferry Rd. All OS welcome. PM for more deets.

Are the reflectors white or silver?

If there is only a relay coil in series with each circuit, measure the resistance of the coil, and add similar in series. You'll need to calc the power for the resistor. e.g. volts (12 hopefully) x amps (e.g. 12V / 200R = 0.06A = 60ma. So 12V x 0.06 = 0.72W. Use a 3 - 5W resistor so it runs cooler. If you want to get the same current in each circuit, just double the R, i.e. i(current) = V / R. What's the 26R resistors? Will the computer be running off 12V still? Is that why you'll not change them? Prolly need more detail on the connections of the "DPDT" relays. It's not clear who's switching whom. Also, it's a little unclear which lines are inputs/outputs. e.g. does "From manual shifter" supply a voltage (12V, 24V) or switch to earth (depends on how the DPDT relay is connected)? This doesn't take into account any voltage sensitive parts. Bear in mind your 24V patrol will charge old batteries at 2x 14.5V = 29V, more for calcium batteries, and short spikes of many more volts when things turn off / jump starting.

A few jet boaters run Link, and I was wondering if a knock sensor would detect cavitation. It'd provide them an easy way to get repeatable thrust. I've seen quite a few hit the juice too hard in the jetsprints, and if the system spools up too fast the cavitation just kills their acceleration (and impeller edges eventually, I guess).

Monitor is good. I thought curved screens were a gimmick, but at arms length in 40" class it could actually be a thing. I'm seeing a little colour shift, and I've got full res, but down to 30fps at 4k because of nvs510m. It's supposed to do 60fps at 24bit colour or lower, but I haven't found that magic button yet. Thank KThulu we don't have to reboot windows for video drivers like the bad old days. Conclusion. Getting a big monitor on appro for your actual desk is probably a great idea. Edit. The display is BGR, and windows only knows RGB for sub-pixel hinting, and can't change per monitor. Can you get X11 from 1995 running on new windows?

Might have been better with a GIF / TIFF, jpg can be compressed / blurry.

I found the Philips BDM4065UC, 40", nice 1 pixel lines. Many shops couldn't plug things in / be bothered, PBtech guy was setting up an LG for me when I spotted the Philips, which also has displayport to play nice with my hp laptop. (no sound, but not a problem for my application). At first it looked laggy as hell (~200ms), but that turned out to be the trackpad drivers on a new high end Asus laptop! Worked nice with a corded mouse. Will report when set up tomorrow, but good value instore.

Anyone tried a 40" UHD / 4k TV as a monitor? Apparently the LG is OK, but I've been unable to look at one in the flesh. Samsung so far seems a bit dithery in fine line rendering. Thoughts please?

And man, that dreamy IL6 noise...

What netbook? I've been debating doing this to the chicks' asus aspire one 522 (dual core C50, 1GHz, 2GB), but thought it'd work better in the rubbish fire.

SSD vs HDD (spinny). I have noticed that my mac is indeed much faster, since I rebuilt it with an SSD. However, every time it needs to touch an old HDD, there is noticeable lag when the backup disk, external disc, etc spins up. (E.g. finder = windows_explorer = nautilus). Conclusion: not really, just noting it for anyone's interest. I expect it'll need full SSD all 'round to get the most out of the machine (Lol, a core 2 duo).

Also, diodes need to be measured both ways. There's normally a diode measuring feature on a multimeter -|>|- , which changes to measuring volts when it puts a trickle of current through. Usual types of diodes should measure ~0.5V to 0.7V in the forward direction. When the diode is conducting (forward biased) it will work just about like a short circuit (no current limiting). Just drops the volts by the volts mentioned above. Your pic looks like the device should flow current from the top terminal to the bottom terminal (if the marking agrees with the terminals). Reverse biased, they're mostly not conducting (~1micro Amp, depending on diode type, not being over blocking voltage, etc) There's an OK description here for more detail. http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/diodes_01.php Also, in a diode bridge (eg rectifier from ac to dc in an alternator) depending on where you measure, you're getting 2 diodes in series, and will see ~1v to 1.4V forward. For extra laughs, LEDs are often ~1.1 to 1.6v forward V (you can see them light up a tiny bit on the meter) if they're red/orange/green, and up to 3.5 - 4V for white / blue etc (edit: clarity, series)

I'm pretty much all over town like mad womans shit, tomorrow. PM me an addy, I may be able to throw it through your front window.

Got it. It'll cost you an appearance at a meet.

Odd. MOF makes my car look small.

My Gran had one of these. When my step dad went fishing with my uncle, he was quite surprised to see a fish go by the window during a river crossing to get to the spot... That patina is awesome. I hear there's rally kits for these?

xkcd: Carry on.

What's your plan for battery charger?

Odd size. I had a look in jaycar, element14.com, digikey.co.nz, and nz.rs-online.com, no joy. Like the man says, try Aliexpress...