h4nd

Dingding - 6 day notice.

@Ash Kelly barr please do let us know, I like learning what can happen with this stuff. Ta.

I've done that if () error many times Where it looks OK, I now write if (11 == canframe) { } because when I forget the == (read this as is_equal_to) and put in = (read as is_replaced_by) then the compiler throws an error.

Oh yeah, are @kempy or @Ned anywhere near you? They're bother clever chappies who know electrickery, I'm more of a digital hack, I just know some basics.

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=/search%3Fq%3Direx%2B.jp%26safe%3Doff%26es_sm%3D119%26biw%3D1521%26bih%3D1058&rurl=translate.google.co.nz&sl=ja&sp=nmt4&u=http://www.irex-jp.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/97_64/products_id/802%3FPHPSESSID%3Dc2c5e758a2267078468673c12971a373&usg=ALkJrhhujjZTpBNozfAQfO7KhHKbXuXIdA Try @mlracing.co.nz for purchase / shipping, unclear if they will double re-ship to Oz.

I have one in a travel kit, it's fine for light use.

I think your best bet would be to replace Q1 with the similar part (solder sucker, and a temp controlled iron at ~700F, 60/40 solder not plumbers 70/30) and then hook up the battery (not the rest of the system) and test the output volts (should be 5V?).

http://www.e-ele.net/DataSheet/HT75XX-1.pdf Just a simple 5V power reg, capable of 100mA out. Still need more docs or better pics to work out the function of the other but bit of the board, to guess if the blown transistor is the same as Q2 (there's zillions of different things in that SOT-23 outline).

Some OS battery chargers need some volts to start them going, I've seen people 'jump-start' the charging with another battery. Probably best use a lead with a spike catcher if you want to try it.

Could well be. It's connecting to the oil sender or the guage? What is U2? (markings). Flicking the relays on and off might have caused a voltage spike (like points), trashing the devices, but it should have been designed to cope with that. I can't see the PCB traces, so not sure how it's wired. That section of the board could either be a regulated DC power supply, at lower than 12V or perhaps a constant current supply, depending on the rest of the system. Normally I'd expect to see a BJT in that kind of role, not a mosfet, so tricky to tell without more info about what it's doing and how it's connected.

Got any docs? Circuit diagram, pics of undamaged unit, etc? Happy to help, it looks pretty saveable, assuming the rest of the bits ain't pooched. Give it a clean w/ isopropyl alcohol or somesuch, a gentle buff, see if you can read the part numbers.

Sumner pipe cleaner.

Should be good. But make good connections, clean tight lugs.

Holy crap! ^ This

Ah, there's a cafe, I just couldn't see it on google Maps. Sounds fun.

Err, there's no cafe? How's the single origin Ethiopian in the neighbourhood?

Also, what plug gap you running? The smaller the gap, the longer the arc lasts (I seem to recall). May be more of an issue at lean? Those first plugs looked like 1.2 - 1.4mm as supplied? Anton's plugs looked like he'd nipped them up a smidge. I run ~0.7 - 0.9ish on the Dai (non ballast system) from memory.

What usage? how many jibberwatts, for how long?

The arduino framework also allow programming wee esp-8266 wifi microcontrollers: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-ESP8266-serial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver/32341788594.html These adapters talk serial AT commands, but don't have the arduino programming hardware: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-PC-CH340-USB-to-ESP8266-Serial-Port-Wireless-Wifi-Module-Developent-Board-8266-Adapter-Board/32814056978.html but these do: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP-01-ESP8266-Wi-Fi-Transceiver-Module-USB-to-ESP-01-CH340G-Adatper-AA3471/32808333005.html

Was windows 10 pro. Laplink PC mover had the best go. At the last minute moving the DLLs over, then the faeces hit the fleecies.. In retrospect, I found I had a faulty ram stick, may have been the cause, but laplink tech support was good, and then refunded when I said I'd had to manually build the OS and reinstall. Mixed bag with just moving them, sometimes they work, sometimes not, it seems. The other issue is that usually a SSD is smaller than the HDD its replacing, which complicates the cloning.

Serial interface seems a bit odd, will probably top out at 1Mbit, but drawing smart things may save the time. You'll probably have to look for reviews, google the product name and "slow" or "problems", or just gice it a try. It's kind of hard to predict with these things, sometimes, so much depends on architecture and implementation, which is hard to analyse in advance. Sorry I can't offer more...

I wondered about that myself. I figured actioning them with a centripetal weight might work on a track car, though no good at slow speed in the dirt.

Yo, computer Gurus: (is there a better thread for this? let me know) I'm moving to a new PC, and I want to take my data, settings and apps/programs with me (because I'm fussy, have extensively modified environment, and have a bajillion obscure and engineering software, many of which are a large PitA to install, I'm guessing it'd take me ~a month - 6wks to reinstall my whole system). Free versions of -Acronis trueimage (doesn't have the universal restore feature) -EaseUS Todo PCTrans (2 apps only) laplink easy transfer (not now free) no go. I'm happy enough to front up $50, but only if reasonably confident it'll do the job, I won't have to buy another copy for the 2nd machine, other fish-hooks etc Anyone tried these, got recommendations? TiA nerd pals.

Recycled PC, fresh install o' windows, won't connect to the innernets. On fucking ethernet. 20 fucking reboots later... Christ I hate windows most days. Restoring windows 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% ...

Example code? Wiring diagram and piezo part number or pic or datasheet.pdf please.