chris r

Looking good! Fax me the loom and some diagrams and I'll sort it

I've probably got one you can borrow. Pm me tomorrow to remind me to check

You can do that. Best practice is to pull it out and drop it in a pot of hot water and watch the resistance change. If it's smooth it's probably OK. You can try look up the factory specs a d compare ot

It's probably not the oxygen sensor there usually isn't enough fuel trim to flood it from o2 sensor input Most likely will be coolant temp sensor.

This is awesome. I'm glad you got it! I prefer the 13s personally

Replaced the ICs and put them in correctly this time and it works. The in-13 is slightly noisy but you get used to it. Just need to make a enclosure for it

More tubes turned up today so I carried on assembling the board this evening. Because I'm tired and wasn't paying attention I put one of the ICs in the wrong way and its not working properly now. I have ordered some replacements and will try again tomorrow.It is meant to be displaying zero but clearly isn't

Those usually need a couple of components etc but simple enough. You will need a heatsink though

Yeah the only way to drive this, no plates and pesting around hah

I took it for a pest drive down to the shops, The foam in the seat swab has collapsed on one side so i'll have to figure something out to level it out. Its nice and quiet to drive, all you hear is a bit of transmission whine, It has 11ty layers of carpet and underlay which will help

I finally did some stuff on this today. I finished off the headlight wiring and they work, I still have to align them as they are on the piss. Looking at that pic I need to re do the battery positive lead so it sits nicer I pulled out all the barry spec wiring for the radio, cd stacker, and fuck knows what else Check out the battery box

I figured that out once I had the leaf off I'm used to working on coil sprung stuff

I assembled the HV power supply today and de soldered the in-13 as I had it the wrong way around. Still too lazy to bring in the snips from the car to trim everything

Started populating the board tonight I realized I've put the bar the wrong way around. I need to trim all the leads and make up the power supply so I'll double check everything another day I had a look through my box of tubes and they are all too small. I'll just have to order some more

The stuff arrived today. I'm looking forward to assembling it. I'll have to find a cool looking box for it to sit in

I'm too lazy/tired to read it but are you running positive earth or negative earth? Do the vibrator or trembler points still work? If you were keen you may be able to fit a modern internal coil and ignition module out of a dizzy and use the "trembler" points to trigger it

Fixed the photos. I have put a new socket and primary fuse in this so its less likely to kill you. Still haven't mounted the switch panel properly, its currently wedged in. I have ordered a nixie thermometer kit from the same guy I got the clock kit from. It should be here some time next week

On some of my older shitters the speed meter has a tiny reed switch in the back for the ecu speed signal. Possibly your wagon dash has that?

Anyway back on topic @Ben_10jaycar do a cheap shift light kit which includes a schematic for a ignition cut circuit. I made it (the ignition cut) up on a bit of verro board so If you are ok with a soldering iron that could be a option. Edit I can't find it on their website but I have the Destructions somewhere and am happy to scan if needed

Uuh But the megasquirt controlled spark yes? So in your case it goes points - - >megasquirt -->coil correct? So when the megasquirt does rev limit itself there is no change to the input signal. Carb it goes points >coil and the revlimiter is in parallel with the points essentially. So when you reach the set rpm it triggers the coil negative at a x frequency. The coil negative is also connected to the points And the input to the reverse limiter. And because the rev limiter is putting out x signal not the actual rpm it goes mental and is not steady. The theory with using the relay is to "change " the coil negative from the points to the rev limiter so you do not back feed the signal. A relay is cheap enough to test if it'll work. If it does great go for it.

it shouldn't. fuse shut, they are rated to 20 or 30 amps. I was wondering about the delay with the coil energizing and how it'd cope with being switched quickly It might dirty the contacts pretty quickly but at the end of the day it is cheap and easy enough to try

The difference is you are using megasquirt for the ignition trigger not points.

My thoughts too re the relay. Solid state or a higher power transistor might be a better option.

The only problem with the revlimiters on carbs is they use the points as a rpm input. They then switch the coil to make the awesome bangs and get into a feedback loop and are a bit shit. Jaycar do a shift light kit and they include a ignition cut ciricuit. I tried it on a carb vehicle and it was a bit shit, did it on a injected one and it worked mint

The best way imo is connect the secondary or house battery to the vehicle with a vsr or voltage sensing relay. It'll automatically switch when the batteries are being charged and isolate them when they aren't If you were in all I'd have a look for you