AllTorque

The virm has just been updated to say cameras can be used in place of mirrors, but it would need to be on all the time the car is on, not just in reverse. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vision/rear-view-mirrors Your 720 Is class NA (Ute) so must have a right side and either an interior OR left side mirror. (See tables and images in the link above) New flat deck utes usually get spacers/extensions for the wing mirrors.

@VintageSpecial I have moved all these posts to this thread.

Did you put the spark plug leads back on the right plugs?

I’m not worried if we have one this month or not, but if we do, wholly bagel might be a good option?

It does not need to work, but it does need to be up so the safety markings can be checked.

There is one exception: “3. A vehicle first registered anywhere between 1 February 1977 and 31 March 1980 may be fitted with a second pair of dipped-beam headlamps” My guess is the VTNZ guys assumed it was originally like that. Here are the rules https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps

You can have one pair of dipped and two pair of high beam.

I haven’t done any more panel work. Wagon has been sitting in the shed except for Wagnats and Swap meat. While cruising around at swap meet the starter was threatening to leave me stranded by clicking and not spinning. Pulled it out and gave it a once over. Brushes were still good, solenoid contacts were worn, so got a shiny new starter solenoid.

That burger looks yummo see you there

Common on WRXs

Why have such a large waste gate pipe? Are you planning on running low boost? What about a bellmouth at the turbo flange into a single down pipe so you can move it forward away from the brake stuff. It seems a bit backward to me to change the brake booster because you made the pipe wrong.

Can you cut the pipe off the flange and shorten the pipe by 20mm? What heat shielding have you planned for the brake master cylinder?

Mmmmmmm, RIBS! I’ll be there. +1

I’m not sure about this specific car, but many have metal pins in the seal of the bearing to trigger the abs sensor. You can’t really see the pins. Usually the bearing will have a metal seal on one side and a black rubber seal on the other. You want the black side pointed at the sensor. Does the abs sensor point to the bearing?

I'd be happy to be incorrect on this one, but I cant find anything in the virm that says there are different requirements for trucks and cars apart from the different requirements for dual wheel vehicles My interpretation is a vehicle either has individual mudguards or a body panel mudguard. Like most of the virm it is unclear. Any time I have called nzta for help they tell me to use my judgment.

Here is my understanding of current WOF requirements for mudguards. The cover down to the centre line rule is for trucks or flat decks that have a seperate ‘individual’ mudguard. If a car has the body panel as the mudguard it does not need to go down as far as the centre line. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/mudguards

Sublet, so another company has done the alignment. Maybe they are charging time for the apprentice to drive the car to the alignment place and check his Facebook while they do the alignment and drive the car back to work?

Oh,wait, just saw the bottom number. $236 for an alignment and wheel balance. something is not right. Should be half that

Looks to me they have removed the wheel from the car, removed the tyre from the wheel, repaired the wheel, painted the wheel, fit the tyre, balanced the tyre.

Probably not, but it’s easy to spray some cleaner on it. Or try starting it with the AFM unplugged. Some cars will start without them. Another thought, crank sensor?

Is your air flow meter covered in K&N oil?

Yes it is ok to seal over the crack. As long as it doesn’t effect the pattern.

Shit, that looks good. Better not get it dirty.

Cool. The booster has a ‘silencer’ or ‘filter’ that is foam around input rod. Chances are when the new pads were put in or the brakes bled and the pedal was pushed all the way down the foam has fallen apart. If the brakes are working as they should,then the booster is sad. If you get a hard pedal or poor stopping performance, the booster is dead. Either way, I would recommend replacing the booster.