Muncie

Could use a short r200 but means the flange will sit inside a subframe and driveshaft will need to be longer to reach it. might actually be better as it would be contained if it were to break a uni joint which has happened to me before.

The diff in the trumpy has started whining and leaking so time to start next item on to do list Am after a LSD from what i gather these come in z31's and s12 silvias is that correct? found plenty of info on net for the conversion into my car but then info on the donor is a bit vague. Uploaded with ImageShack.us r200 at top trumpy diff middle r200 longnose nearest cant wait to get into this

that explains it bummer will have to put a bit more thought into it now. for now i reverse bled it by using a old clutch cylinder to push fluid back up the line seems to have it working but will be revisting brakes next weekend. when i stripped rear brakes both cylinders were rooted and leaking but had stopped using brake fluid must have shut itself off as the article said.

Are you making a bell housing adapter? i managed to get some CSK bolts for my lexus v8 thru steel & tubes fastening supplies branch. they have huge stock.

suspect the back brakes may have been locked off for skids by previous owner by jamming something in the brass distribution block. hence putting a drill thru it got fluid flowing again but yeah brakes are working ok front are back to normal but cant really tell how well rears are working. would hate for my wife to need to jump on them and not have rears working. normally i do the old open valve at back left foot to floor shut valve repeat method but cant push pedal to floor its like rears are completely separate from front, and front is giving a firm pedal while trying to bleed rear. fucking odd and making me a tad furious aye.

Hey guys been franticly trying to get car a wof this weekend so rear brakes were basicly shot dripping fluid next to no handbrake, Thought i best not muck around as my wife wants to use it as her daily over summer so bought new wheel cylinders and shoes fitted those up no worries. went to bleed them couldnt get a drop out of it either side with both bleed nipples opened i still had a firm pedal feels like normal basicly. tracked line back up to engine bay no damage on that so suspect eye locked onto the brass block that all the lines split off from (has warning light sensor in it too) ripped it out blew all crap out and notice couldn't see thru port that feeds rear brakes run drill thru it chucked back in, second attempt at bleeding getting bit of fluid thru now but pedal wont go to floor for full pump like its pushing against the front. So on a dual circuit system should the front brakes bypass thru to the back when bleeding? never struck this before despite owning close to 30 of these cars in past. Any ideas.

Have you thought about going to a electric water pump with controller? modern technology is awesome these days be worthwhile as well as a new rad would sort out your issues no doubt. will be fitting one after my engine rebuild.

you need devcon for that dodgy porous throttle body titanum putty seriously fixes shit a tig can't got a pot if your interested could get it to you. it's not cheap but i'll never use it up.

Found my solution half the price of the moss kit. about 170 bucks landed in nz doubt i could be assed making it for that money http://www.goodparts...p?categoryID=13 Uploaded with ImageShack.us

if the pump is external power it up and see if the car starts it'll help track down the problem. my vn commodore had similar problem had 12 volts at pump wiring but hook it to pump it'd drop down 8v Not enough to make any fuel pressure was shitty contacts in relay. come to think of it had a porsche 924 that did same thing.

providing your driveshaft slips in the box you should be able to use the triumph unit providing the bellhousing can be swapped over, and torque converter bolts up to the flexplate on your engine you'll be away laughing.

They do aye but i really am lazy. tough decision think i could possibly make them if they wont work. emailed moss for more info and whether they'll definately fit.

have run 245 50 14 eagers al round on one before on widened r30 skyline rims no guard mods or rubbing but yeah bees dick clearance on back between guards and shocks.front was pretty good though surprisingly

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=8860 150 gb pound roughly

Have found de cambering shackles for a TR6 that can take 3 degrees out but they are pricey and come from england but are fully adjustable. wanting to run some 14" 235's on back so excess camber will make short work of those. anyone keen on some flash shackles? might be able to get a bulk deal on a few sets haha.

Got front down on my triumph now new bushes added a sway bar Awesome. Now i've headed down to the back end its going down 60mm lower on heavy duty custom made coils with new shocks to hold springs in place. after dropping springs out and dummying up on trolly jack i have at least 3-4 degrees of tyre killing camber i see plenty of guys on here have dropped trumpys lower did anyone find a fix that can be made in the comfort of the average mans garage? I've got a couple of ideas to try but be good to skip straight to a proven cure.

its a bit of a design cock up on this model of car they corner on the bumstops at standard height and as the back has no bumpstops whatsoever from the factory when you push them thru corners at pace you spend alot of time on 3 wheels looks hard case but you soon get tired of it. hoping sway bar and this mod plus the new suspension bits will keep it planted.

So have been working away on parts to convert my triumph 2500 to powersteer and front sway bar to modernise the ride and handling a bit. I will be going 60mm lower in the front which from experience will put the lower arm almost on the bumpstops so while i have the subframe on the bench in the vice i have been thinking of cutting a 8mm wedge from the top of the bumpstop mount bending it back to give a bit more room then welding it back up. most people when they lower these cars cut the bumpstops down but it can make the ride quite harsh when you really throw the car round corners. i can take some photo's if this didnt explain it well enough. I used to work as a fitter turner up until recently so the job will be done well not a hack job, i'm just not a suspension geometry guru can anyone see any reason why this would be a shite idea?

Hey by any chance is it Blue? if so i drove passed it twice this week already looked very tidy. if it is seized you'd be surprised how effective a few tablespoons of diesel and clean engine and oil down sparkplug holes can be in freeing things up. above all do not scrap it.

Checked out your project looks awesome. manifolds for my engine would be a mission as i would have to group carbs in twos meaning linkages and fuel lines but after reading how yours turned out i'm almost sold on the idea, i take it they sound animal as?

Been trying to find parts to get petrol injection for my car (triumph 2500) most the stuff out there is in need of rebuild now and well been there done that i guess. so after lookin on trademe i spotted 2 sets of carbs off a 1300cc 4 cylinder kawasaki for 250$. now i'm torn they should out perform dellorto's or webbers. what do you think is it worth the effort? or should i look into EFI instead

Just spent last 2 weeks stripping a well shagged and ugly but complete power steer front subframe for the car spent all of sunday arvo wirebrushing straightening and getting some etch primer on the metal parts. mission.

Check the routing of your hoses i just sorted this issue on my car heater pipe had been looped up meaning the water wasnt circulating in the head put them back how they were supposed to be now problem gone... well apart from the gauge is also stuffed in the dash so external gauge also was needed. hope one of these 2 could help.

use 300zx TT engine and pathfinder box for 4wd. dont waste time with supercharger those VG30DETT engines have next to no lag you'd lose power fitting a blower.

check for spark when you wind it over the crank angle sensor goes as well as the igniter pack meaning no go usually both at same time my father in law has a couple of Coronas. i also had one for a while best way to check is to get another corona and swap components over till you can give the fault to the healthy car. thats if the cambelt is intact.