shrike

Pickapart run for both motor 1.3/loom/ecu and the manual box out of the 1.0 one

Anyway to add another anchor point? Like have a tab that connects to the bolts that hold the two half's together? Alternatively long term you could look to get mounting plates/tabs etc welded on right?

Could also get the 2.4 or 2L Hyundai engine and turbo it G4JP and G4JS If you get a box that fits the 4g69 or 4g64 it should fit the 4g63

Did these end up having dual injection bosses? Probably not useful for your setup however? Dual injector setup probably wouldn't be of any benefit as most bigger injectors have good low end control Part of me wonders if small injectors for lower end would give better control/results and then a larger set as you need more fuel but tipping you don't need huge injectors anyway Keen to see cruise control and other cool DBW stuff setup (cold start/idle/launch control etc) Wonder how they would go on a 4/7/9A

They only work with Triangle pistons

If the box will fit a 4G93 it will fit a 4g63, 4g64, 4g69 4G69 is a sohc with Mivec (MCM did one) you can get them out of lancers and outlanders etc. If you can find a manual awd outlander the gearbox could be a good option (same with Diff) 4G69 is same height as 4G63, you will need to use the right mounts to make it all work however The outlander running gear could possibly fit (so could go to 5x114.3 that way as well) The later model RVR (with the evo 4 onward engine) will also be an option for parts Obviously looms to match engines etc Yes diff ratios will all need to match up 4G64 and 4G69 will take an Evo Dohc head

Finally managed to set the idle/Bliss/Timing on it, still pretty rowdy without a muffler. Managed to get it sitting pretty stable at roughly 750rpm when warm, takes a minute when started to get upto idle and almost wants to die even when warm. Got the ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, however that was with the cas as retarded as I could get it. Probably should have left it alone however have now flipped the cas inner part around (180 degree) so will redo the timing another day and see if that gives me better adjustment, could be that the wiring/ecu reads the cas the other way around. I did follow the manual on how to set up the cas but I am not using the factory ecu for this car (RVR ecu) etc and there is guides that outline it needs setting the other way depending on application Also helps when I read the crank cover markings right and don't try and set it at 15 degrees on the timing gun thinking its at TDC (0) :S 15degress is fine for this setup but trying to keep it at factory of 10 Really need to finish the exhaust so it has a muffler also managed to kerb the rims when I was turning it around so not overly happy with myself. Still very much needs a wheel alignment and the suspension adjusted properly, probably should find some factoryish rims and tyres for it so I can put the factory suspension in No pics as I am lazy

What feeling system does the 1kz use? My understanding was that newer Diseals couldn't use chip oil.

Whats the lead time on the bike throttles being in your hands?

Sorry for thread spam but depending on how you do it could always swap back to factory intake for wofs lol. Used to have a mate that took the turbo off his skyline for every wof haha Actually if they are in a box not sure if some places would even notice

Shame Speeduino doesn't have DBW options currently or you could get some Motorbike ITBs like Roman Wasn't there a guy on here who built a mx5 with a later model head and high compression?

Able to get a tap in and put a grub screw in with some sealant?

Ahhh ok didn't realize you didn't have knock limit on 98 (considering the compression :p) might be a slight bump from lower intake temps but I doubt it would do much and yeah if no E85 available no point Anyone on here got a still that can sling you some Azotrope :p make your own hahaha

@Romanhave I missed it or have you already done an e85 tune and maxed out timing?

The ones for 149? Out of a wrecker in NSW Was looking at them before, do they include the plug for the dbw motor? (Tps had one) buy no injectors etc I'm also curious how they mount do they use a vband setup or? (Guessing could always weld onto them as needed)

Yamaha R6 from 2006 forward have 41mm ride by wire ITB Few mentions of issues with the 06-07 ones so maybe look at the 08-16 models Believe the 08 up also have dual injectors as well

Better economy then my CBR500RA I get 4.5L per 100km with mixed driving

Good to know glad I didn't buy one then :p keen to see what DBW ITB pop up for cost effective pricing

Last E throttle/DBW I was looking at were the BMW option for ITB https://www.efihardware.com/products/3236/dbw-actuator-motor-bmw They come on M3 E46, and M5 BMW's from memory Bike wise not sure these days but alot more models have come out with e throttle, pretty much anything 1000cc plus might be worth looking at

I think the real issue is that you don't have enough wool tufts over the whole car, and your current results are clearly inconclusive

https://youtu.be/iK23hiI4m-E?t=50

So arp head studs and new gaskets the plan? Soooo keep winding up the boost until you run out of fuel or something lets go then?

Front air diffuser time? Something like what Barry has? Could also pick up a spare hood to put some holes in and do ducting to bring air up and out through them (spare hoods only 4 bolts right?) Do you have enough space to do a duct from the radiator and out the bonnet? Is there an air duct/dam that goes from the bumper to the airbox/radiator? also having a heat shield separating the pod from the rad may help with temps? Is there enough space to duct the space with the airbox also out a bonnet hole? You could also look at an under tray, though thinking about it now unless you made something that just slid in and out it may be too time consuming to just swap over for a track day

Would sealing it in a vacuum bag help? Also if it doesnt tap, im assuming youll just use insets?

I wonder how much hp the exhaust will get you. Extra 20hp?