shrike

Could you just powdercoat the battery box or paint it etc?

I suspect for your power levels you probably have enough airflow, esp when you see cars like civics with half rads running 300kw etc I agree with the above comments install it the easiest way and then mod if needed But with proper ducting I think itll be ok

@Roman any idea how much airflow you get through the space youll have? Assuming youll be sealing the radiator and running ducting/shrouds etc do you have some measurements of the holes that will let air into the radiator? If your mounting it further back is it worth running a duct from under the car as well? With Dual fans running as needed you might be ok with the space available even if hard mounted guess it will depend how much restriction there will be

@Roman

Once you drive it the first time you can see how noticeable it is and then swap diff etc plus an opportunity for graphs

Is there any go fast bit options? Other then turbo/injectors/tune Crank to far gone to grind and run oversize bearings? Stroking or compression tweaks? Is yours FWD or AWD?

Excellent I'll go back and find it

It's just swap the (sorry if wrong terminology) ring gear on the diff so it runs in reverse yeah? Or the carrier? Any gearbox tweaks for dual spinning or anything like that?

Whats the Motor meant to make powerwise?

I was more meaning make sure no shit that hasn't been cleaned out and everything balanced and put together torqued up etc They tend to be older design turbos and the main downside can be as you said materials or quality control from an assembly perspective

Chinese turbo that you've disassembled and reassembled to confirm quality control?

Do I need to crank my speakers or is it quiet? Great sound either way keen to hear it scream

Whats the power goal in mind? Go down @Romanroute with a 1NZ or v6 from the GR family? Your not keen on Ford so ecoboost motors are out.

No option to fit a longer more modern Wiper blade setup on the drivers side?

Have you seen this? I posted in the comments on one of the videos to your thread but don't think they saw it

Check the rear mounts on the subframe that go to the mustache bar, they have a habit of cracking/rusting out Had to get mine plated and welded up on my Gsr when I had it Worth doing if your going to have it out anyway

Hope everything else is going well just know how slow wiring can be to do so was just checking in :p

Hows the wiring going?

Any option for a holiday over to Japan and find one yourself?

How much left in the list till shed skids?

Keen for start up/running videos and shed skids Are your J160 all stock internals? Or have you had some mods done (Circlip?) Any idea how it'll go with many revs? I'm assuming power and torque are within specs for it?

Im assuming youll be upgrading valve springs?

Next update, and you have all the bits to build a frankenmotor for when this one dies haha, all cheap pickapart bits or FB marketplace etc Do all the GR heads swap over between blocks? Wonder which ones flow the best/are the best to port hmmmm

Welder and paint make me the welder I ain't lol

Awesome, is there any logic to the placement of the speed holes? are they actually dimpled or just hole sawed out? Guessing the backing was for weight saving/aerodynamics?