bigmatt4

Who would be the best person for dyno tuning carbs in chch palmside dont want to know lots do efi but no one lists carbs

this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-900010094.htm and this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-900458652.htm work really well together

toyota r154 pretty strong box

imo leave the carb free up the exhaust give a little timing and good tune up standard 1300s dont need a bigger carb unless you cam them with a gt cam or somthing and with different carb from a different engine family i doubt it will run very nice without re jetting lots of time requred for little reward . Exhaust no bigger than 1 7/8 will do nice for a hot little 1300/1600 in the future 2 inch i find are to droney. why waste time and money for somthing you may not use again if you upgrade the engine anyway easyer to find an 32/36 weber carb that will bolt onto a factory manifold that will fit factory linkages.

looking at a hiace on tard for work can anyone run there eyes over it for me see if its worth me flying down to look at it cheers in advance matt http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=854948361

voltage drop in the start wire ? sure they run down beside the battery cable check voltage to that wire under crank should be no less than 9 volts if so fit relay to that wire

044s are an awesome pump but noisy as shit especially hot. intank pumps are they way to go way quieter and cheeper unless you are chasing power 350kw plus

ahh maybe it got the same issue that SRs get do they have hydraulic lifters? the old SRs used to do that you would thrash them round then park them up and all the oil drains out of the lifters. Go to start next morning no compression. Hold foot flat to the floor and crank over till it catches one cyl at a time and away they would go. Usually if they were over due for a service

put a testlight on the neg side of the coil and crank the engine and does it flash? yes---- check condensor or coil No----- make sure the points arent shorted to ground.

check for an earth wire on the distributor plate should be one so it isnt earthing through the vacume advance slider thingees. also have found if you dont clean brand new points with thinners or the like then they burn up as the have a preservative oil on them to stop rust

Have you tryed a re learn on the tps. Hand brake on warm engine turn engine off. Push foot flat to the floor turn ignition on (dont start) hold for 60 sec. Release pedal and dont touch. Start engine put in drive and idle for 60 seconds. Turn off engine while still in gear place in park and restart engine.

Remember 2.5 to 3 psi max fuel pressure for weber or delorto need to do that before tuning otherwise you will never get the idle mixtures to stay consistant

try moving the pump to the back most electric pumps are a push pump so they are designed for pressure not vacuum had the same on a customers hq with 350 run out of fuel at full throttle moved the pump to the back solved

I had the same issue going up the kaimai ranges on my 1600 with twin 40s uprated to 2.5mm needle and seat also had a restriction in the brass fittings i used upgraded them and its all good. What pump are you using and where is it located

small amount of fiddling with the carbs and its alive

escort sport wheels with 7 inch rear 6 1/2 inch front thinking of doing some cortina offset ones too so i can go 7.5 to 8 inch in the rear wont get much more on the front

progress again

engine almost ready to fire up this weekend i hope. I have cranked it over and it has has oil pressure and all compressions sound fine . All i need is some ht leads top radiator hose and bit of wiring and fingers crossed its a good one.

modified the cheap shit coby extractors as they hit the floor changed from 4-1 to 4-2-1 not fussed on power loss/gain as i will attemps my own set later down the track. also rebiult the entire exhhaust system as i was not happy with the addition of handbrake cables.

modified the cheap shit coby extractors as they hit the floor changed from 4-1 to 4-2-1 not fussed on power loss/gain as i will attemps my own set later down the track. also rebiult the entire exhhaust system as i was not happy with the addition of handbrake cables.

mission to get in had to drop the crossmember for the sump to clear

ok few more bits done the enigine is in yay

have you tried to get flash codes out of it ? is it rich or lean ? i would be suspecting airflow meter- map sensor issue or vacume leak as you idle issues indicate an air leak

have you still have any of the old alternators i can take a look for you i got a test bench and shit at work

continuous duty solenoid would be a better answer way more durable than a relay