SOHC

The ones in my Volvo were rusty as hell and I failed the WOF, I painted them with spray chrome about 4 years ago and they have been sweet ever since.

When I first got into v8s I couldn't understand how come that hole in the intake manifold was dirty like a exhaust

Its to keep the carb warm to help vaporize the fuel, some old v8s had a thrumo valve in one exhaust manifold to block off the exhaust in one side to force the hot gas through the heat riser wile the engine was cold. your exhaust sounds meaner if its blocked off and have twin pipes.

Dose that intake manafold have a exhaust heat riser?

Don't worry about it, I assure you.

When you say there is a squealing noise from the trans when you turn it by hand, I have found my C4 in the ford did that and a cople others to, must be ok

If the blower was on the intake it wouldn't relay work, would cause the fire to burn out of control, the fan is just for starting up and you have a bypass valve open when the fan is on and you hold a match to that to test the quality of the gas befor starting the engine. Yes the bags of gas on the roof are full of coal gas, they did have some cars with CNG looking cylinders on them but its not woodgas. There are little or no improvements I can make to the Imbert gas generator

I tested my cyclone separator filter out with a vacum and handfulls of crap. It seems to remove everything apart from the fine dust. I have a 80 leater tank I was going ti make somekind of oil barth with a fiberglass filte. If I could get one of those oilbarth cyclone filters of some old earth moving mechaine would be good. Grit and moisture is the main problem with wood gas. An old guy was saying how on an old flathead 6 he ran no filter but had to remove the head and wirebrush everything often

I have the sizing carts and some more in-depth info if anyone is keen. There is a guy on the net with a moped running on gengas.

That would be very much appreciated. Maby I could make a new blower center

Yes of you compressed wood gas a cylinder would only get you a cople miles up the road. The chemistry part is intresting. I dont fully understand it. Just that the hearth and nozzles must be mached to the engine or you carnt crack the tar and that will clog filters and stuff. There is some reaction in the hot char that forces a molecule of unburnab gas to share its oxygen and split into two molecules of burnable gas.

Anyone can weld on vehicles to my understanding,

I need to find some kind of blower that is made from steel to use for lighting up the system, it would be used to create the vacuum before the engine is started, don't holden HQS have a steel heater fan?

The vehicles distrubtor needs to be controlled from inside the car like a manual advance retard, so it could be hocked up to an old choke cable and the clamp in the block needs to be modified to it can twist, and it needs an air control like a 2nd throttle butterfly upstream of the gas intent to control the air mixture. All up you would lose nealy half your engine HP as wood gas has such a low heating value, the heath is sized on the HP you use not the overall engine HP

I have gathered alot of info I can't post it all, I was given the Volvo hearth and air nozzle sizing chart and I have a booklet from the NZDSIR from WW2 A friend on face book runs a 350 Chev on wood gas daily. Alot of work has gone into my generator already, I had to form a cone from 12mm plate witch was hard work, I just need to make the flange to bolt the wood hopper onto the firebox. I was hoping someone could give me some enthusiasm to finish this heap of shit

I am building the more completed Imbert system as it has a bit more control, you see alot of crappy down draft versions around as they are pretty simple to make but are hard to control. I am building a Swedish V heath system where the build up of ash protects the metal hearth from the oxygen, my plan was to install it on my old Volvo not for road use just for a bit of funn

The gas is made from burning wood in a controlled environment

A old volvo fitted out

This idea has been around since internal combustion engines have been around, it was the only alternative fuel to ever completely replace petrol during WW2, I am having a crack at making a system, I need to find an oldish car to fit it to, something with a 4 or 6 cylinder with a distributor and carb and a manual transition, the older the better. I have mostly finished the generator and cyclone filter, water trap/cooler, I have another big cylinder I am going to make a filter witch uses dry grass/ wood shavings for a partial filter This is how it would look fitted to a car I have to make a lot of air tight hatches for cleaning etc. the fitting on the right is the shaker, I can put a spanner on that and rock the ash grate.

Last night I just slammed my non boosted brake car into the back of the shed, forgot I needed to press harder LOL.

I got told to leave the seals on by an old timer, he sed it doesn't relay matter, it will stop all the big chunks of shit getting in from other parts, If they are not full contact seals so oil should still get in. I do what Ktrips sed anyway

Your deVille looks mint, I was going to buy one once, the guy bought it over and parked it in my drive, we couldn't make it go for love nore money, it stayed there over night and then when he picked it up he robed my house

I understand more resistance makes the spark jump a bigger gap to. My old ford should have solid core leads but I have carbon ones on it. I always wondered about TOPGUN leads they sell for most cars, they all have a solid stainless core ?