sheepers

Triggers for the ecu. I couldn't use the stock 5M dizzy because it sits exactly where number 1 throttle needs to be. So after a bit of indecision and fucking around I decided to run a crank angle sensor off the front pulley. I machined the inside of the pulley to an accurate size then I made a boss to press into the pulley. The pulley is cast so I can't weld anything to it. She's a fucking tight fit in the pulley so it ain't going no place. By pressing this hub into the inside is not affected by the rubber isolation layer which can cause erratic triggering. I'll laser cut a trigger wheel and use it to accurately drill 4 mounting holes. Then all I have to do is mount the sensor off the front of the motor somehow.

Dipstick. I didn't have one with the engine parts and I had to move the location. The 7M Dipstick location is right where the 4M engine mount goes so I had to drill another hole in the block. No drama the boss is cast into the block, just had to drill it. Then I set about modifying a jz Dipstick tube to work. I drilled the hole to big for the jz tube so I had to weld it to build it up then machine it to size. I fluked the size and got it perfect, its a good tap in fit. I cut the stick to length and used the 4m in the crown to get the oil level marks right. Then I put the sump on, probably not for the final time but it's on.

Then I painted it red because that's the first tin of colour I pulled out of the cupboard.

Sump baffle. Anyone who's driven the misery Inducing stock 4M will know that the stock sump baffle setup is a bit shit. You don't even have to be hard on the brakes to get the oil light to flicker on. And besides all that the stock baffle wouldn't fit now anyway. So I made a new one that might work a bit better to keep some oil around the pickup under braking. Let's not kid ourselves and think that acceleration is going to be an issue. It won't. The baffle sits across between the pump and the pickup. The red lines on the block indicate where it sits. Now I'm going to paint it

if you paid yourself a dollar an hour for all the multitudes of fucking around you've done you could afford to just buy a radiator that fits perfectly and does exactly what you want it to do.

Final oil pump and pickup setup. Slotted pump hole to rotate the pump a bit. Dash 10 crossover pipe with a bit taken out of the block to clear the pipe. 7M oil pump pickup raised 8mm to clear the shallower sump and relocated pickup brace.

why do you give away all my secrets? IM NOT GOING TO DO IT NOW.

Sump. After a bit of soaking in evapo-rust it is now the cleanest 4M sump pan on the planet. It doesn't fit thanks to the dash 10 oil feed pipe. Is was fucking close though so I thought if I machined the fitting down as tight as I could get it so there was only a tiny gap between the boss and the nut the sump might clear. It didn't. Like you could do up the sump bolts and it would work but it's still touching the pipe so I'll have to do something else

Steering wheel controls all wired and working. Everything on the left of the wheel works as it should. Right side is for dash and whatnot so there is nothing to connect they to. Fucking stoked.

Old compressor vs New compressor

not that i know of sorry.

incoming old man sharn, in about 1998 a mate of mine was working for urgent couriers in AK and for some fucked up reason that only coke filled courier company execs can answer urgent couriers bought a GTIR and gave it to my mate as his courier car. it was branded and all that but he drove it all day every day. it took me for quite a few rips in it and fuck me was that thing fast. when your bench mark was a 4M powered shitbox the gtir was light years faster. why did they think that was a good idea? fuck knows but it gave a bunch of mid 20s jokers a new understanding of what a turbo car was.

I think I figured out why the air bleed timer wasn't working. Transistors are supposed to explode yes?

I increased the pressure a bit then left it over night It has lost exactly 0 psi which I'm quite happy about. Now the next thing I need to set up is a drier type thing and some decent air feeds in the shed but I think I'll wait to plumb it into the new workshop when it gets built

I got a Teflon lined hose and plumbed everything up. It works. The switch turns it off at 110 psi so I'm going to up that a bit because why have something explode at 110psi when your could have it explode at 140psi. The thing I haven't finished yet is the purge valve. I have a bracket for it I just need to wire it in, I'll probably do that now. Anywho, it works.