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Jesse's 1988 Toyota Liteace KM36


Jeffs_Emporium
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Have been giving this a good nudge since Wednesday. 

Mounted the fuel pump where coil was with a STA parts alloy bracket (overnight delivery thursday). Spent infinite time online looking for ¼npt to barb fittings for 6mm hardline to pump and pump to 8mm fuel union on webers. Ordered 3 different sets from aliexpress as I found better ones (elbow) with shorter lead times on shipping.20210821_130027.thumb.jpg.4cebfbdb35c0d611ea08365a0af15bb9.jpg

cut back the factory loom and have enough length to relocate coil and hyperpak to where airbox was. 

Had a bit of a win on parts scavenging when I realized a cut up loom that came a recent 1gge purchase has lots of the plugs I need (alternator, distributor and fan switch) 

It's been good to find and order a bunch of stuff I need from internet (I seem to have a real battle finding specific shit)

Awaiting carter oil pressure safety switch, ⅛bsp brass tee with ⅛npt allocation for carter switch. Also have electric fan relay kit on order and a couple 250 series male/female 6 pin plugs to hook up hyperpak as well as fuel pump relay which I'll run off the carter safety switch. 

Need to order a suitable coil and a singular 400mm electric fan to manipulate into the factory plastic shroud (I still need to overcome one outlet on radiator on incorrect end and the lack of filler as it was on 5k thermostat housing)

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Whipped the dash out this morning for a couple of jobs20210821_112235.thumb.jpg.50ac2460022a00d04a0ae24aca37c78c.jpg-Swap out cable clutch pedal for the hydraulic one I have along with the 3 outlet reservoir

-Remove the leaking heater core to source replacement/repair

-Browse dash cluster wiring. 

None of the nz spec km36 came with a tachometer but the ym30/40g and cm30/40 did. The diesel rev range on the cm one is maximum of 6k rpm and have a turbo light which is no good to me. The ym has a max of 8k rpm (only 5500 redline) but it will do

i-img1200x900-1590480452thxn6e286709.jpg.55fcc8a08cd95c54ac5b23c77842130e.jpg

Looking at my existing cluster I have a 10 and 12p plug. 

This example on Yahoo Auction Japan has 3 plugs (10p,10p,12p) i-img1200x900-1590480452mudqp7286709.jpg.d0d2624cb1a7619fe92e4f4551bb6f36.jpg

I'm guessing the extra plug is likely the extra warning lights along top for the more luxury optional extras. Here's hoping the board is simple enough to just trace what I have and make it work. In the past year of browsing they have all been ¥15000 but this one above is up for ¥7800 so I may as well give it a punt.

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Ordered the clutch hardline and fittings from here 

https://nz.gsparkplug.com/25ft-x-cupro-copper-nickel-brake-pipe-3-16-10-x-male-female-nut-10mm-x-1mm.html

$49 delivered for 25ft of ³/16 tube with 10 male and 10 female m10x1 fittings.

Had a break from the tedious jobs and whipped off the cam covers for a refresh and to delete the writing from the top of them 20210822_135430.thumb.jpg.b3a0dac8be58aba7d8c5e374669bf4f7.jpg

have just hit them with a filler primer to try make them a bit smoother and will decide on colour overnight/ see what I have available...

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Clutch line and fittings has shown up from England 20210915_093405.thumb.jpg.47e0bc996379a6004ce039c281b9ee94.jpg

and clutch slave from rockauto arrived also, just need to track down a rubber hose to join the two.

Need to pull finger on this before we get out of level 4 lockdown really. 

I think I have mostly all I need to finalize wiring aside from some heat shrink and heat resistant tapes from China 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Carb manifold got the slim down from Burr engineering 20210928_172645.thumb.jpg.315806c7cb8800ef8cb0ba4bb20d979f.jpg

Fitted this, using 3 studs and 4 bolts. Then have to wind in the top studs for carbs swing them up from underneath and wind the bottom studs in once in place. 

I've given myself about 20mm clearance to the side of engine bay and the fuel pump fits in nicely next to the rear carb

20210928_191315.thumb.jpg.243d222e85358a51656044a6bf874409.jpg

But the front carb is hitting the seat :blackeye:

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  • 3 weeks later...

3 photos of the hydraulic clutch conversion because it's that big of a procedure with 8 or so line clips to run through. I ran a peice of string through all the clips then measured it, rolled it out of my tubing then took to ebc for them to flare. 20211015_143730.thumb.jpg.843ff8c3916c39476da0ab0acebbb942.jpg

You'll see the different reservoir swapped in with the 3rd line fitting for clutch. I did have a nice round on tube coming off the master cylinder but it was running higher than reservoir outlet and making it hard to bleed. 20211015_143607.thumb.jpg.7869926ae8ecf5195fa3368b615dee37.jpg

nicely clipped up in the allocated spare tube holder 

 

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Lastly the slave fitted

20211015_143649.thumb.jpg.eff5965b6dd5180918c79300a3fe4b3c.jpg

Located an old brake hose with correct fittings to get me from the hard line to slave. Had an issue with the threads in the bellhousing being drilled on slightly different angles which I have overcome by drilling one hole on the slave to 10mm instead of the 8mm it was.

With the slave on drivers side under my ass I was able to one man bleed:cheers:

Only think I will need to look at is a way to fit the soft to hardline connection with a solid mount to body.

 

Decided to hook up the starter and try do a compression test. 

Recieved 100, 150, 150, 100.

This engine has been sitting for God knows how long but has evidence of receiving an entire pull down and clean up.  Are there any preventative measures I should be taking before trying to start it for real?

I'm just waiting for a 3ohm lucas coil that's specd for the hyperpak to show up before giving it a go 

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