shrike Posted August 8, 2020 Author Posted August 8, 2020 Been meaning to pull the gearbox so that I can install the clutch/flywheel, needed more access to remove the steering rack so pulled it 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 8, 2020 Author Posted August 8, 2020 Ended up pulling the engine as well oops, glad I can still remove a bonnet and an engine on my own Going to fix the rust around the clutch master, reinstall a few things in the engine bay/maybe some touch up paint etc Need to reinstall fuel lines so this will make it easier, need to remove more of the front end for some panel work repairs as well Swear this car is getting more taken off it :s Will disconnect the steering column from the rack tomorrow and get it out 2 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Pulled the rear bumper off and the tow bar, will clean up and repaint these with some subframe black Behind the bumper was filthy, and surface rust everywhere, will put some fish oil down the chassis rails as well once I reassemble 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Give it all a good scrub to see what I was working with Discovered some damage to the rear bumper bar and the rear bumper mounts so repaired that as best I could 2 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Repairs with a hot glue gun, not the best but it worked as a temp fix 2 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Decided to do the passenger rear wheel well Needs a few minor touch ups but came up ok 2 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Got the steering rack out and removed the tie rod ends, also will replace the rack bushes while its out and give it a paint. Ive got a set of rack boots as well which I may also do but the ones on it aren't too bad 2 Quote
shrike Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Will put the other rear caliper back together one night this week, no rush as not like they can go back on the car yet ha Tire well came up ok after the rust treatment, put another coat on and will work out when I am welding the holes up, Thinking ill wire wheel the underside and rust treat that first tbh, need to do more painting so will get new brushes asap. Need to wire well the rest of the boot as well, need to buy some spray guns and some paint, ive got some primer already to go on once I finish removing the rust 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 16, 2020 Author Posted August 16, 2020 Small update, will post pics later this week Under-sealed the other rearwheel well/ inner arch, semi welded up the spare tyre well (can't weld for sh*t) pin holes are a pita, I swear I rewelded the same hole like 6 times as I was aiming for better then my skill allows, metal is bloody thin and kept blowing out even at the lowest volts my mig would run etc Will probably file/die grind it back and metal bog the final pin holes (yes I cringe at that but my skill isn't there) all the rust is gone/been treated Started stripping the surface rust under the car for more new under seal Need to buy the above mentioned metal bog and then once the boots prepped ill put down some primer Waiting on Steering rack bushes before I paint that, managed to press out the ball joints from the lower control arms Rethinking re-welding the rear sub-frame myself and need to see if I can find anyone under level 4 to do it for me if I drop it off Front subframe I am game to tack weld the crack slowly as itll be covered by the subframe anyway As you can see below bit of a hole Quote
shrike Posted August 18, 2020 Author Posted August 18, 2020 My rust fixing attempt all filled up (first attempt) Quote
shrike Posted August 18, 2020 Author Posted August 18, 2020 Cleaned up with a carbide bit, tired to get it to perfect and then redid it a few more times, kept having blowout 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 18, 2020 Author Posted August 18, 2020 Current state As you can see it got slightly larger with blowout (think I didnt let the metal cool enough between tacks) 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 18, 2020 Author Posted August 18, 2020 Few other fixes, need to clean up the back as well and then alittle bit of metal bog over both sides and smoothed out before I put some primer over the top, bottom will get some septone chassis paint (same as the wheel arches) Holes to fill 1 Quote
shrike Posted August 18, 2020 Author Posted August 18, 2020 Rear subframe that ill get repaired, have a fabrication shop quoting it atm Other side isn't great either so might get both redone Have had my steering rack bushes arrive Going to clean up all the other rear bits this weekend all going well (if the weather is good Ill do the last of the boot/rust/underside work and do the underseal) Hoping to have the rear end back together over the next few weeks, need to restore the fuel tank as well, want to get the underside sorted so I can put fuel lines etc back in Still waiting on parts from Amyama and will need to order more, holding off till after I get a better idea of what else I am missing Lost a rear brake pad shim clip which I need to find other wise ill need to order some more of them too Quote
shrike Posted August 24, 2020 Author Posted August 24, 2020 Weather this weekend just been was pretty shit so didnt get onto the car, Brewed another 28L beer though so got that fermenting away (still need to finish cleanup, everything is washed etc just not put away) Ordered a new Proton Wira front end as a spare (220aud shipped so not bad) spent some time on Sunday going through Rockauto and matching up parts from 1993-1995 Mirage (1.8L abs) Rear rotors, Rear pads, Fuel filter, Air filter and rear caliper shims 1993-1999 Eclipse or Talon Front Rotors, Front calipers (twin pots) and Front pads Haven't ordered yet as still deciding, specifically when its 4 packages, but $680 with shipping wasn't terrible, I have big AP racing 4pot calipers and twin piece rotors currently but they are going to make getting the car legal hard so will take it back to factory for now. Already going to be fun getting it legal with the 4g63 and coil overs but will deal with that later Also can always resell/use down the line the front brake setup if need be (people want 300aud for just the calipers over here :s) Yay money pit lol still waiting on my Amyama delivery Quote
fuel Posted August 24, 2020 Posted August 24, 2020 If you're staying 4 stud why are you getting DSM Eclipse/Talon rotors? They are 5-lug. The VR-4 Evo 90-92/Lancer Evo 1-3/Galant VR-4 92-96 rotors are the same 276mm as DSM Eclipse/Talon but 4 stud. Quote
shrike Posted August 24, 2020 Author Posted August 24, 2020 22 hours ago, fuel said: If you're staying 4 stud why are you getting DSM Eclipse/Talon rotors? They are 5-lug. The VR-4 Evo 90-92/Lancer Evo 1-3/Galant VR-4 92-96 rotors are the same 276mm as DSM Eclipse/Talon but 4 stud. Rotors I am getting are Multistud, will be going 5 stud down the track as well (looking at Rotor options for my AP racing calipers in 5stud or getting a new hat made as they are two piece) Also more then happy to drill holes for 4 stud if I need to anyway :p https://www.apcautotech.com/part-detail/12146032?year=1999&make=mitsubishi&model=eclipse The same rotor is listed for the Galant vr4 due to the multistud Could also go for the fancy ones but they are 100 more and tbh I am happy with factory style https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4417746&cc=1356634&jsn=275 Pulled the pin and ordered, saved about $100 to buying locally and means I get new front Calipers instead of 2nd hand ones that need a rebuild, also cant source brake shims here anyway. Spent way to much on shipping but oh-well, don't need anything else for a while from the states and it is heavy parts. Need to get back to the fab guy to sort the rear end before I can paint it and put it back in Have a clutch firewall brace on the way from Malaysia as well to stop firewall flex, could have made one but worked out cheaper to just buy one that fits Thinking about getting some smaller wheels but not sure what to get, I actually like the Koya wheels I currently have but they really need to be 7" wide instead of 8" as I won't be running anything bigger then 215, may need to get more factory style/size wheels for RWC but will work that out when its ready to get inspected and has been looked over (sure ill get a list of things to suss) But if I get new rims I would want to go 5 stud anyway :p 3 Quote
shrike Posted August 25, 2020 Author Posted August 25, 2020 Rear subframe/diff cradle dropped off to the fab guy who is going to reweld and strengthen it so it doesnt break again and aslo give it a coat of paint for me. Said itll be probably around the $150 mark so I am pretty happy with that as a new one is around $800 from Amyama and for that price id spend the extra to go down the racefab route with a 3000gt diff and custom driveshaft shop axles. Means now I now need to pull my finger out and finish doing the under seal, the fuel tank, replace the rear axle/cv boots (the tripod bearings feel sloppy so might need to rebuild the whole thing if I can find parts :S) and finish off the spare tire well. Quote
shrike Posted August 25, 2020 Author Posted August 25, 2020 Just picked up the rear subframe, all welds repaired and a plate welded overtop along with extra welding all around pretty happy for $130 Quote
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