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Help required 1gge no spark Auckland


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I cant seem to get this to spark from the main lead going from coil to igniter. Ive now used the correct igniter and took the cover off it to identify pins. I'm fairly certain I have wired the ecu correctly and have used the engine manual to check voltages across certain pins.

The igniter is triggered by the ecu via IGT pin and also has IGF. 20200211_173111.jpg.57af06a528f0fb6ee6df58ec0f61ccfe.jpg

I seem to have a constant 12v on the IGT when the ecu is on, I would have thought it would be a pulsing 12v as the engine cranks?

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Toyota IGT is typically a 5V signal, 0v 5V transition begins charging the coil then spark occurs when it transitions from 5v to 0v.

I am not 100% sure the IGT on the 1gge ecu is 5v, but if it is 5V, it would almost be impossible that if that IGT output had failed it would default to 12v.

Is there another 5V output pin on the ecu you can test to confirm its 5V out?

Have you attached all the grounds to the ecu? There may be a pull down resistor that's floating at 12v if the ground isn't connected, but seems unlikely.


Have you double checked you have the right pin for IGT and confirmed the pinout you are using is the correct one for your ecu? Are you able to post up the pinout/wiring diagrams you do have?
 

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Are the injectors firing? If they are then it means the ecu is getting the trigger signals from the distributer.
I saw one wiring diagram where IGF has a pull up to 5V, are you able to measure what the voltage is at IGF, with nothing else connected to that input on the ecu?

 

PIM is the map sensor, and VCC is 5v.

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I have the IGF and IGT connected to igniter via a two pin plug. If I connect these with the key switched to ON a large spark emits from the coil, does this confirm igniter/coil is functioning as it should and I should look at the lead from coil to dizzy?

 

Injectors dont seem to be firing 

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Yeah have a good earth from battery to block and body and on rear of head as per factory. And checked IGSW, +B, +B1 is receiving power during start and crank. I did have MREL hooked up to 12v feed also but have rectified that. Stripping back the engine loom from ecu as far as I can to identify what all the pins on engine harness to body loom plug are. Do injectors have a constant 12v then the ECU feeds a ground to operate them? 

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i dont think they are meant to, but dont quote me on that. 

reason i say that is, on my megasquirted car, i wired the injectors to constant 12v, and then discovered that when the ecu shut off it pulled down to negative, and i was jamming my injectors on and dumping the fuel rail into the cylinders. i probably need to get those injectors checked... but that may not be how the toyota is wired. if you get stuck i can drag the crown out tomorow and poke around it, but its 1ggze. probably the same?

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injector, coil, ecu etc..  12v+ should only be on with key on.  

ecu supplies ground to switch injectors

if injectors aren't working and no spark.    check the 12v+ supply is good.   if so its likely that the ecu isn't seeing the cas triggers.  neither will do anything if ecu cant see rpm

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After deleting the auto shit I've lost about 10 pins from body plugs.

NSW I hook directly to earth?

-IDL branches into body plug, what should this be connected to?

-#10 branches into another pin on body plug, what should this be connected to?

-Power to iscv is also on body plug ( 12v key ON?)

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Have found a few peices which were wrong. Although I hooked up e²² and e¹¹ to the original engine body to ecu  e¹¹ this pin must have connected to ground via AFM or something as it was not earthed. 

N/sw is connected to ign on (is a manual ecu anyway)

Iscv and injector resistor power are hooked up to ign on also.

STA is connected to CRANK via starter motor switch 

Still not getting spark. When I connect a multi meter to IGF and IGT with key ON I'm reading +12v?

Diagnostics code is coming back as no ignition signal also 

 

Is there someone in Central Auckland I can pay money for a house visit to help find the issue?

 

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How have you got the MREL setup? I thought usually ISCV and other stuff is powered by the main relay which is ECU switched? Usually still starts if that is done wrong though. Sorry not much help, maybe try getting a scope to check what’s actually happening? They are pretty cheap now.

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i normally remove the dizzy and spin it with a drill instaed of cranking the engine then you can hear the injectors ticking if they are not i would suspect the distributor to be a fault . also check for a 5 volt feed from a sensor to make sure the ecu is actually powering up

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