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Mr.Mk1s Datsun 1200 B110


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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 4 weeks later...

Well fuck

this things been fighting me hard ever since and it's been thoroughly depressing.


Engine is tight, old starter stopped cranking it, like it would crank then click another 20 times then crank again. If I turned the engine on the pulley bolt to a different part of the cycle it would crank again but not always. took starter apart and cleaned up/greased..throws out fine on bench but never went again in situ.

borrowed a good one and it's epic

old battery an issue also so have to charge it after every attempt and use a spare to help jump.

bit of shit in carb tried to fill it with juice.

battery cables getting very hot, replaced positive to starter. No way only negative gets warm.

added another makeshift earth from block to body.

got a new battery that may be faulty cause it's not a lot better but borrowed a brand new one and it was sweet.

longest it ever runs is about 5 seconds,

coil lead was bit loose, fixed, still shit, tried new lead, spark erratic.

i do all my own stunts so I can't hit the key and attend to carb 100% but copious amounts of engine start should help?

tried wife's dailys cap with leads and no real advantage.

tried a near new coil, same shit.

it will crank away but then as u let off the key it sometimes Gives a cough to start but of course you've just switched it off then it wont take back up where it was or the battery is too lame.

gave it a new condenser and it livened up and fired quite quickly but still no more run time and only did it once.

the cam was ground advanced so I could throw it back in to factory specs and it would be a good starting point.. I thought.

mint16 and I are happy with static timing and firing order etc.

bad earths couldn't cause this? As everything has just been painted? theres a wire from the horn mount (a solid bracket on the chassis) to oil pump bolt-block, a lead from neg on batt,-to the strut tower,-to the block, and another from other strut to block. Obviously I don't want to hack off the paint to bare steel under the body points to see, it should earth through the threads.


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The plunger was gone when I checked.


it turned out to be a dud ignition switch.

i hotwired it and it fired straight up, ran great but then I wound on the revs to run in the cam and it started rattling.

so out it came, apart she went and it's fucked

I'm rapt I got to the bottom of it, gutted it's taken a month, a lot of stress and cost probably $500 all for the sake of one bung wire.

we will rebuild! I'll send the crank to the shop and see if it will polish up cause there's 2 pretty dull journals, otherwise they'll get the rest and I'll have it assembled oversize, lob the head on and throw it back in.

and look for a new ignition





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Got to the go ahead to modify so a few pie-cuts and welds and the exhaust was clear.

got it running last night after figuring out which of the various hose tails was the fuel inlet, and blocked the (anodised purple) vac block off as I have no brake booster, and finished the exhaust and a little more tidying today, drove out of shed.

the throttle cable is lacklustre and I need to come up with a nicer bracket.

Got a good bark to it, quite funny watching it jiggle away at idle.

Will need to readdress the exhaust as now it's a lot closer to the floor in one spot and the idler is almost touching

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Today I decided to try my twin carb setup so I could dial it in.

once the exhaust was sorted ( fucking thing came out right under the modified gearbox x-member so had to trim excess threads and piecut pipe, it plumbed up easy and with some gas down the throats it fired straight up!

went for a test fang but had no vac secondaries.

didnt like to idle but have hooked up vacuum hoses and it's good now.

yet to re-test.

i have a wee video but can't upload 


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I decided I'd make some of my own actuators to see if I could make the arm longer and change the fat of it so it moved the secondarys more/sooner.



After a few volumes, I gave up.

it was a Shit, confined by other bits it would try and hit or you clear that part then the shape is wrong and it would essentially jam wide open.


So as a compromise I just built up the part the screwdriver is pointing at, so it engages the secondary's sooner. 

Will have a test hoon tomorrow night

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Engine came back, put er back together, looked sharp as a pin..acid bath ate all my paint off the block so hazed it again.

engine guy gave me some syrupy green assembly shit to use. I found it way too sticky and I had trouble with bearing caps sticking and trying to spin so had to re start that a few times.

went in beautifully, always usually a jerk to line up the box.

oil pressure straight away, ran like a clock. 25 minutes at 2500 to run in the cam then went for a drive to the hills to bed it it.

on the second run it started making a funny noise. Bee lined for home and it got much worse,


dropped the oil and it was great. Wiggled everything and it was tight.

out she came.

the fucking flywheel came loose. Despite being torqued to spec and loctite 10hours prior..

so stoked it’s not shot, perplexed how that happened. Also found a torn engine mount and the gearbox mount mite be poked too.


then I spent 3 hours trying to get the fucking gearbox lined up, had a big ole rage and went inside.

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Went for another drive and all went well. 

Also ditched the vacuum advance on the twin carbs and made my own actuators. Lots easier once the vac gear was out of the way and I could cut off the wee leg the diaphragm arm went onto that was fouling my previous design.

not in a rush to put them back on just yet, will keep putting miles on the engine. Maybe when I have it apart to put the HD valve springs in once it’s run in

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