Mr.Mk1

Mr.Mk1s Datsun 1200 B110

48 posts in this topic

Well fuck

this things been fighting me hard ever since and it's been thoroughly depressing.

Briefly:

Engine is tight, old starter stopped cranking it, like it would crank then click another 20 times then crank again. If I turned the engine on the pulley bolt to a different part of the cycle it would crank again but not always. took starter apart and cleaned up/greased..throws out fine on bench but never went again in situ.

borrowed a good one and it's epic

old battery an issue also so have to charge it after every attempt and use a spare to help jump.

bit of shit in carb tried to fill it with juice.

battery cables getting very hot, replaced positive to starter. No way only negative gets warm.

added another makeshift earth from block to body.

got a new battery that may be faulty cause it's not a lot better but borrowed a brand new one and it was sweet.

longest it ever runs is about 5 seconds,

coil lead was bit loose, fixed, still shit, tried new lead, spark erratic.

i do all my own stunts so I can't hit the key and attend to carb 100% but copious amounts of engine start should help?

tried wife's dailys cap with leads and no real advantage.

tried a near new coil, same shit.

it will crank away but then as u let off the key it sometimes Gives a cough to start but of course you've just switched it off then it wont take back up where it was or the battery is too lame.

gave it a new condenser and it livened up and fired quite quickly but still no more run time and only did it once.

the cam was ground advanced so I could throw it back in to factory specs and it would be a good starting point.. I thought.

mint16 and I are happy with static timing and firing order etc.

bad earths couldn't cause this? As everything has just been painted? theres a wire from the horn mount (a solid bracket on the chassis) to oil pump bolt-block, a lead from neg on batt,-to the strut tower,-to the block, and another from other strut to block. Obviously I don't want to hack off the paint to bare steel under the body points to see, it should earth through the threads.

 

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Have you got power to the anti dieselING solenoid on the carb? Or removed the plunger? They'll only run for a few seconds then.

 

Edit whoops,  meant to post in discussion thread.

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The plunger was gone when I checked.

well!

it turned out to be a dud ignition switch.

i hotwired it and it fired straight up, ran great but then I wound on the revs to run in the cam and it started rattling.

so out it came, apart she went and it's fucked

I'm rapt I got to the bottom of it, gutted it's taken a month, a lot of stress and cost probably $500 all for the sake of one bung wire.

we will rebuild! I'll send the crank to the shop and see if it will polish up cause there's 2 pretty dull journals, otherwise they'll get the rest and I'll have it assembled oversize, lob the head on and throw it back in.

and look for a new ignition

 

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Got to the go ahead to modify so a few pie-cuts and welds and the exhaust was clear.

got it running last night after figuring out which of the various hose tails was the fuel inlet, and blocked the (anodised purple) vac block off as I have no brake booster, and finished the exhaust and a little more tidying today, drove out of shed.

the throttle cable is lacklustre and I need to come up with a nicer bracket.

Got a good bark to it, quite funny watching it jiggle away at idle.

Will need to readdress the exhaust as now it's a lot closer to the floor in one spot and the idler is almost touching

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