SOHC Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Non oldschool question but I am relay stuck, I wound the pistons back put everything together and now the handbrake leaver pulls up and dose nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taistorm Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 May need to tighten the cable up by the handbrake itself? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 You have to wind the pistons back out. You wind them in like 25 turns or more to get them in but they come out about the whole way with 4 or 5 turns so be slow and patient with how fast you wind them out. Also make sure that any locating tags end up sitting in the correct place on the face of life piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 You have to wind the pistons back out. You wind them in like 25 turns or more to get them in but they come out about the whole way with 4 or 5 turns so be slow and patient with how fast you wind them out. Also make sure that any locating tags end up sitting in the correct place on the face of life piston. Thanks for that, I thought they would set themselves when i used the handbrake, I did what you sed and it worked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 May need to tighten the cable up by the handbrake itself? I think it need a bit of that too, they may not have any adjusters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 To do a brake overhaul properly then you should really have backed the adjuster nut off till the cable went slack and then adjusted the handbrake pistons as I described above. So if you can be arsed - then do that before reading below and bedding in the pads. Bed the brakes in with a bit of a drive around town and the hills to get them pads all settled and bed in properly. Then look for the 10mm nut which will be either under the handbrake handle or down the side of it near the pivot - you'll need to look with a torch through the rubber boot around the handbrake. After bedding in the pads then find that nut (it may be 2 nuts - one is a locknut so will need 2 spanners or a spanner and a socket) and remove the slack in the handbrake cable. Careful not to overdo it with the cable tension though, you do not want the brakes dragging. IIRC In the old 626's they normally have 6-10 clicks of the handbrake before it holds nice. Do not expect it to end up like a drum brake where 2-4 clicks is a good brake. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 To do a brake overhaul properly then you should really have backed the adjuster nut off till the cable went slack and then adjusted the handbrake pistons as I described above. So if you can be arsed - then do that before reading below and bedding in the pads. Bed the brakes in with a bit of a drive around town and the hills to get them pads all settled and bed in properly. Then look for the 10mm nut which will be either under the handbrake handle or down the side of it near the pivot - you'll need to look with a torch through the rubber boot around the handbrake. After bedding in the pads then find that nut (it may be 2 nuts - one is a locknut so will need 2 spanners or a spanner and a socket) and remove the slack in the handbrake cable. Careful not to overdo it with the cable tension though, you do not want the brakes dragging. IIRC In the old 626's they normally have 6-10 clicks of the handbrake before it holds nice. Do not expect it to end up like a drum brake where 2-4 clicks is a good brake. I will give that a go then as the handbrake is only just holding when its fully up, cheers for the info, I was about to start looking under the car for the adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Is this a wagon or a sedan/hatch? From memory... If it's a wagon back your cable right off, start the engine and pump the brakes slowly and firmly about20-30 times then re adjust the cable. If it's a sedan or a hatch you need to take the blanking bung out of the back of the caliper and use a 4mm alen key to wind the piston back out until it the pads bind against the disc. Back it off until it is free and readjust your cable. That's assuming all the rest of the brake job is as it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Is this a wagon or a sedan/hatch? From memory... If it's a wagon back your cable right off, start the engine and pump the brakes slowly and firmly about20-30 times then re adjust the cable. If it's a sedan or a hatch you need to take the blanking bung out of the back of the caliper and use a 4mm alen key to wind the piston back out until it the pads bind against the disc. Back it off until it is free and readjust your cable. That's assuming all the rest of the brake job is as it should be. Its a sedan, I used those adjusters on the backs to wind the pistons in but didn't relise they had to be wound back out with the new pads lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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