Plox Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Drums are a new art to me so any advice would be appreciated! Vehicle is a Morris 1000 van Installed new brake shoes & cylinders, gave inside the hubs/drums a quick sand with some 1080, did a bleed, tried to adjust (clicked it up until it was locked/nearly locked then backed off a bit) How do you know how far to adjust the brake clickers? When test driving it would brake alright, but only after 2 or 3 pumps of the brakes and no real feel to the brakes unless you have pumped before. My thoughts are it could need more bleeding (or complete flush) & maybe some adjustment? or is that normal for cars like the morrie? Also the brake reservoir gasket is pretty shabby, would this be affecting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Your adjustment was fine, did you bleed the front brakes as well? Did you rebuild the rears as one cyclinder was fucked? What was the brake fluid like and did you replace it with the same DOT(?) etc. If the fluid has not been flushed in a while it is worth doing. How is the brake master cyclinder? Any signs of leaks past or present? It is also worth noting that Morris Minor brakes are shit from factory, but you should get 'feel' from the brake pedal, even if you don't get any stopping power. I fucking hate drum brakes on Morris Minors. I did what you did, which is a pain in the arse and after all that it appears one of my front wheel cyclinders is also shagged so I use it as a car cover storage unit instead of a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 More bleeding required - it shouldn't require multiple pumps. I find my Morris the worst for brake bleeding. I find it takes two complete bottles pumped through the system. I made (hacked) an air-line adapter so I can put 20psi air to the reservoir which makes it slightly easier. With new shoes and what not it should be acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 The gasket on yhe lid wont affect anyyhing. Minors are a pain to bleed, you couldld try a gravity bleed - i got quite a bit of air out that way. Shoes are adjusted till they lock, then backed off a notch (do that before setting the handbrake) i yhink last time i rebuilt.my brakes i bled it twice took it for a poorly braked drive, then bled it again. Pedal should feel stiff right off the bat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plox Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 All new bits where on the front, figured the rear wouldn't do to much? I bleed both front and one rear. Had done rears in the past and not touched them since and the back left one looked fine so I left the other. Just repco fluid. Sounds like more bleeding required! thanks for your help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 With Minors you need to bleed front and back. You start with the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master cylinder and work back finishing where you started. IE: Passenger rear. Drivers rear. Passenger front. Drivers front. Passenger rear. Yep, gotta do passenger rear twice. Also, from memory some brake fluids are not compatible so you can not mix them. Might pay to spend some coin and do a total flush and get rid of any old crap and make sure the whole system is rocking the same type. Also, are you getting someone to help you bleed them or are you using a 'self bleeder thing?' Minor brakes really do need someone spotting top see how much bubbling you are getting. Oh, and I also have several copies of the same Morris Minor 1000 Hayes manuals if you want to buy one. (bought one for my first minor, second minor came with one, and Dad bought me one). They are a fucking must if you are new to minors drum brakes SU carbs etc. Never knew you had to oil a carb til I got a minor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plox Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 With Minors you need to bleed front and back. You start with the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master cylinder and work back finishing where you started. IE: Passenger rear. Drivers rear. Passenger front. Drivers front. Passenger rear. Yep, gotta do passenger rear twice. Also, from memory some brake fluids are not compatible so you can not mix them. Might pay to spend some coin and do a total flush and get rid of any old crap and make sure the whole system is rocking the same type. Also, are you getting someone to help you bleed them or are you using a 'self bleeder thing?' Minor brakes really do need someone spotting top see how much bubbling you are getting. Oh, and I also have several copies of the same Morris Minor 1000 Hayes manuals if you want to buy one. (bought one for my first minor, second minor came with one, and Dad bought me one). They are a fucking must if you are new to minors drum brakes SU carbs etc. Never knew you had to oil a carb til I got a minor.... Great thanks for that. I'll make sure we do it that way next time, will do a full flush. and yes someone helping & topping up res. Sweet I'll talk to the old man and see if he has one or wants one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Oh, and I forgot to say that Morris Minor Vans are awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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