mjrstar Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Does anyone have a sweet link to legit setup info for hyd clutch release bearings. I assume its constant contact but am not sure how to gauge stroke setup ( minimum clrarance at full cylinder compression) im assuming 2-3mm will be sweet but then how do I ensure the hrb does not apply too much stroke... Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 first you will need to know how far the original bearing pushes the clutch fingers.. the a heap of measuring...from the bellhousing flange on the motor to the pressure plate fingers. then you set the hrb to the same,measuring it from the bellhousing flange on the box to the face of the hrb...use your shims to pack it out etc.. most are constant contact or just shy of it. i was told to allow 2mm of play, but i had mine probaly 1mm the only way to adjust the throw of the bearing is to put a pedal stopper in.. thats how i set my stockcar clutch up and it was oh so sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 That 1st measurement could be interesting as the clutch is designed for a conventional external slave.. pretty sure I know how to measure finger position and correlate to bearing location. Is the 2mm of play talking about the bearing 2 mm from fully compressed. i had assumed these would be sprung to retracted but I guess sprung to extend allows for wear..I should add a bit more clearance to allow for my part worn clutch disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 By the concentric slave being hydraulic then it will be self adjusting and the pressure plate fingers will be what "retracts" the bearing by pushing it back - whatever clearance you calculate to have between the bearing and plate will disappear on the first or second pump of the clutch. All you really need to make sure of is firstly - that the bearing is mounted far enough back into the box to allow the clutch to get to a fully worn out state (as the pressure plate fingers extend into the gearbox side) and that the slave is still able to retract a little more than that (not much though) And second - that you are not overthrowing the clutch travel (and loading up your crank thrust bearings) but that is really only adjustable by the length of the pedal stroke so you will need a positive stop on the pedal unless you fluke it. This is normally regulated by a match of the master and slave bore sizes and fine tuned by adjusting the length of the pushrod but as you are frankensteining it they may not necessarily match. I'm fairly sure that most concentric bearings have plenty of travel so making sure there is enough travel should not be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Sweet doesnt sound like I need to be overly concerned with exact depth... also the unit doesn't have a bleed hole. Do I come up with a tee joiner with a runner outside the bell housing to at least bleed the clutch line. Or does this do crazy shit to clutch pedal feel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Is your like this? Courtesy of John CXGPWR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 my old quartermaster hrb had about 25-30mm of stroke.. havent measured what my howe has. but they do have a spring inside them that fully retracts it back inside itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I found this video quite interesting, not sure if it will help you or not. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7S746x3o3Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoverP6B Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Yep, made by McLeod Clutches in Texas, USA The first couple minutes of this link will show you how these work and fully adjustable http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW_QHZM0qN8 Possibly source ex-Ebay? Or from the manufacturer, these can be had with or without the master cylinder http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Hydraulics.mcl Lots of discussion on USA forums as this is a fairly common setup, LS-1 Forums, Corvette, etc. GW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 my old quartermaster hrb had about 25-30mm of stroke.. havent measured what my howe has. but they do have a spring inside them that fully retracts it back inside itself. A retracting spring inside the concentric bearing? Urf? Does not compute. Wouldn't it just be basically a brake calliper piston with a hole in the middle. The flex of the seal is what retracts the piston and bearing fractionally off the surface of the pressure plate fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 ^^ not the one i have, she has a spring to keep it fully poked out - (constant contact) as does the factory plastic one which came with the z box. same as this unit.. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/cart/description.php?II=12914&Car_Type=370Z&UID=20131105145944202.50.184.162 but without the nasty pricetag - as it is just a standard unit for a saab or dodge they use then tax it up by 150% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 the factory plastic unit is on the left, the one on the right is the uprated unit i'm going to try and mash in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 mines totally different to those.. however mine are built for racecars not factory cars like mondeos etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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