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Martyns AE86


NicT

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I thought id put up a project thread of a car i have been working on for the last couple of months.

This came to me with a possible electrical fault (misfiring under load) upon further investigation one of the ball bearings that sits in the oil galleries in the head had come out and the head was recieving no oil pressure. This caused the valves to bind on the guides and pushed 2 of them into the combustion chamber.

This has lead to a full blacktop 20v rebuild and conversion.

It is a factory Blacktop with Silvertop rods, all weighed, crack tested and balanced. All new parts were used and i have been very meticulious with this build taking longer then it should but i believe the end result will be worth it.

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Out of all the things i own, i do not own a printer!!!

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Somethings to note about the build:

- Bought the last 2 valve collets in NZ as the head washer ate them

- Bought the last under valve shim in NZ, again parts washer ate it

- 2 Valve shims cost your left nut and took a long time to sort out due to under bucket shims. Need to measure this with a spring needle DTI and a very flat surface. You cannot use a micrometer and dont let anyone tell you otherwise even if they do work for toyota

- Blacktop looms suck as they have intergrated EVERYTHING through the one loom, and the firewall gromet is resoned together so u cant pull the individual wires through

- Working on such a well panelled car, buying $2.99 towels from the warehouse is a sound investment

- Altho you can run a heater with a 20v, i wouldnt recomend it as the outlet is incredibly close to the dizzy cover (we used a blank off/relocator kit)

- Engine mount needs to be modified

- Blacktop 20v you can not run the rwd alternator bracket as the hydrolic tensioner fowels on it

- Blacktop 20v Alternator bracket needs to be modified to clear the engine mount

- Blacktop Starter motor is completely different to the RWD 16v one, you will need to use 16v Starter

Not many issues for a conversion to be honest. We used the SQ engineering dizzy and water relocation kits. Expensive but the choice was made to get something industry proven.

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Really? Theres a large casting lump in the way of the drivers side mount, also a dowel pin needs to be removed from it. The engine mount wouldnt bolt up flush unless i skimmed it down.

And we didnt have any other alternator bracket, just rwd or 20v blacktop. Blacktop has an intrusive part that hits the engine mount.

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I am using a silvertop bottom end but i didnt think it would be any different. Seems they are though.

Yea the silvertop alternator bracket is the same thats why i got hold of a 16v one. I dont have a hydro tensioner to get in the way either as the silvertops are spring loaded

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nice engine build, how much was the sq water kit? seems a shame to do a nice job then have the dizzy stickin out the front, why not run the honda da17 cop's? For a thermostat i was lookin at runin a bmw remote one, think theyre arouns 71deg so about the same as a trd one.

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nice engine build, how much was the sq water kit? seems a shame to do a nice job then have the dizzy stickin out the front, why not run the honda da17 cop's? For a thermostat i was lookin at runin a bmw remote one, think theyre arouns 71deg so about the same as a trd one.

Common one to use is the AE92 thermo housing.

No idea what the SQ kit cost as martyn sourced it and handed it to me.

I think the dizzy out the front looks rad, but thats just me. The COPs would mean going to aftermarket ecu. I know there is examples and what not on the internet about running COPs on the factory coil trigger so they all fire at the same time every time, but who knows how reliable that will end up being?

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