sentra Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 when people dont use the normal black rubber ones, they seem to go to small hoses. has anyone got any good leads to search? i want to put clean break type couplings on my rad smaller hoses would allways be nicer to handle/route, i assume they would be astronimically expensive at 38?mm id. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 have you found the clean break/seal on release couplings for the job? I looked ages ago but I couldnt find anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 you probibly got alot further into it then me, but there is a few listed for radiators, they all seemed weirdly small, then you look on jegs and they have like -8 to 38mm rad hose adaptors, the odd google images shows the odd racecar running stuff like that, but no real info anywhere. quite a few ls1 type engines with the works with -20 fittings, im imagining the logic was probibly something like UG BIG V8 NEED BIG FITTING SHINEY. someone here will know something surely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 How big? Big enough to fit over the radiator inlet/outlet? lol But yeah, that sounds pretty sweet. Do you have a picture or is that the issue? Might be nice for running rad pipes where space is minimal and you're using some aftermarket rad where the lines don't match up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 found someone talking about it http://www.orldsm.com/showthread.php?13748-What-size-AN-Hose-for-Radiator-Waterpipe-replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Hmmm. Initially I thought that those pipes may be too restrictive, but IIRC the thermostat never actually opens that wide to make sure the pressure is high in the motor to stop the water boiling and cavitation of the water pump. You could try one of the official OS sponsors that do race hoses / fittings - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32734-spr-parts-race-hoses-fittings-and-gauges-10-discount/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 sorry, i have seen quite alot of seal on release couplings, but none that I thought were a reasonable size or price, ie upwards of $500 a fitting or 60mm OD for 19mm OD tube. You could be ok with small radiator hoses though see snap tite fittings or eaton or this one http://www.cejn.com/upload/download/pdf_catalogues/Non-Drip_english_lr.pdf so they are out there, you just need to figure out the smallest you can go then find a reasonable price, from memory you cant get anything like that from the place simon suggested most of the motorsport cars I have seen use these o-ringed clip things you could take off with one hand, I cant remember the name of them though, and they use solid sections of pipe instead of flexible hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 hmmm, what about industrial coupling of some sort e.g. camlock - although camlock would be too big in this case - there are others around though for dairy industry stuff etc that might do and would probably be squillions cheaper than raceboy AN aeroquip rah de rah stuff. or just route normal hoses so you have access and use double hose clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Hmmm. Initially I thought that those pipes may be too restrictive, but IIRC the thermostat never actually opens that wide to make sure the pressure is high in the motor to stop the water boiling and cavitation of the water pump. You could try one of the official OS sponsors that do race hoses / fittings - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32734-spr-parts-race-hoses-fittings-and-gauges-10-discount/ Heres some engineering theory to consider, first thing i thought if re dealing with a pressurised system. i dont think itd be an issue but the theory that the tstat only flows so much is slightly flawed as droppibg pipe size to match that will increase system resistance (unsure if itd be enough of a increase to worry about) but when dealing with pressurised systems you need to make sure that the pressure drop you have created/added doesnt mean that you could see boiling at the low pressure side of the pump. again thats some pressurised water theory i have dealt with irl for building boilers that were pressurised over 2.5 bar to stop the 120 deg water boiling. probably way overthought but some light reading for sunday morning lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Tom he wants couplings which mean you don't lose any fluid/ have to reprime the system If you had a larger than original radiator then you could theoretically drop the hose size a bit, not sure how much though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Yeah youd probably have to drop the hose size heaps to have the effect im talking about tbh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Tom he wants couplings which mean you don't lose any fluid/ have to reprime the system If you had a larger than original radiator then you could theoretically drop the hose size a bit, not sure how much though it's going to blow up that much that it will be a pain to reprime the system? tbh I've never really found that much of a chore. those AN fittings don't provide that function anyway? having a larger raditor wont help if the water cannot get out of the engine fast enough to carry the heat to the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I think he's just wants its easily removable and doesn't want to reprime the system as he is lazy? That's why I was showing him other brands where you can have seal on release capability. Having a bigger radiator will lower system losses depending on design. If you then used smaller hoses it would increase losses and bring it back to normal/ make it way worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 yeah im pretty lazy / hate breaking the cooling circuit. (also i hate alternator & oil cooler aswell, but uj wont let me put it in the bin) it isnt so much removing the motor all the time, but like if i want to do some small job like clutch/waterpump or whatever in my car its either a suuuuper mission with the engine in, so its easier just to have everything on quick couplers and remove the whole thing. a cam coupling with floppy rubber hoses on each side might be a good way to go, because you could use those big plastic sizzor things, break it, and chuck some cam coupling bungs in. i am a little timid of an/speedflow type arrangements as they look like they are so havy they would fatigue the radiator tanks off lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 just put manual valves on the radiator and on the thermostat housing etc. ? lock open when running/ shutoff when you pull the stuff out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 ah whatever my original statement is still correct I cant see a way of doing it without using seal on release couplings except where you have to reprime the system, surely as soon as you drop any water out its likely you will have to reprime the system and have to refill it/have water everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 Its not an os tech thread if it doesnt lose direction! size!!! looking for anecodtal evidence, or someone to say "oh man you deifnalty need to use xyz becuase my v8 exploded as my hoses were abc" those honda homeboys are using -12 hose on plain old oem waterpumps. that is tiney! but man it would be sweet to run such small hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 at a very vague estimate 24mm ID hose would give the same area as a thermostat opening, and if you imagine the flow through a thermostat is alot worse than a nicely flowing bit of tube, then you could run that. based on rubbish/gotta lose direction becuase no one likes one directions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 If I could be bothered getting out my steam tables and doing some calculations Id school it for you. but like how you are lazy at re priming your cooling system im lazy at my steam tables/need to finish the chores around the house. basically need to work out if the hose can flow more than 200hp or so of heat at some guessed nominal system pressure downstream of the thermostat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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