Beaver Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Also picked up some spare front struts to chop up. Have decided on another 2" drop all around. Will get leaves reset 2" and keep the 2" blocks as well (leaves reset 4" would be a bit silly/super inverted). Not sure what to do up front yet. At this stage im favoring grabbing some body adjustable s13 stuff (or similar) and getting a threaded boss welded to the struts. Got all excited when someone told me how cheap the guys at MRP can do it, but upon contacting them I was informed they have changed the gear they use (used to use their cheap as in house MRP branded stuff) to more expensive gear which starts at ~$800 and then extra work the welding etc. Ive been told s13 top hats/camber plates will fit so this is why ill start looking at s13 stuff. Just need to make sure it will be short enough/low enough. Should be able to pick up a pair of fronts for ~300-400 and then give handjobs to some to make up the boss and weld it up etc. abuse //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-15 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 yay for boring updates! Took this away for the hanmer meet. New wiper blades bitches Lost my car Lost my exhaust Had a nap So first up are get exhaust welded back up then take it in for wof. Had a yarn to the Archers Springs crowd so will get the leafs sent up there to get reset. Once Wof'd will then pull the front stuts out and measure up a few things and then hunt out some suitable body adjustable coilovers to suit. And then get a adaptor boss made up and welded to cut down struts. discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-15 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Had another go at getting bike carbs running properly. Stripped carbs down (again) and they are spotless. Chucked on, nope still wont fire on 3rd cylinder. Pull off and inspect manifold (well the piece for the 3rd and 4th carb) and its not perfectly flat so 5mins on my super fancy milling machine (sandpaper on bench) it looks better so chuck it back together and voila, fires on all 4. 3rd still drops out when idle is turned down so I suspect it needs a bit more sanding and a new gasket should work a treat. On a more realistic note still have no wof but finally got exhaust fixed up. also motor momentariliy runs backwards when you turn if off...think I fucked up the timing. woops //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-15 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Got wof Got these 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 stripped down spare struts. Just need to get some new cutting discs to whip spring perches off. Looking into shorter shocks, then will cut and shut the struts. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 With Spencer running his mouth so much decided it was time for a big block upgrade. Managed to snap up an a15 and 5 speed for a decent price, pretty chuffed. Have a few things that need doing now (coilovers, reset leaves, and then dropping/fitting new motor and box) so will wait till I have all the bits and pull i off the road for a bit while I work on it. Exciting times ahead. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-16 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 chopped spring seats off last night and have been hunting around for suitable shocks. the internet/chris cain says use n10 pulsar shock inserts but they are no longer available (well the specific part number is no longer made) however the dude was very help full and it looks liek early vw golf inserts will work sweet. they are ~100mm shorter overall and its all in the body (ie they retain pretty much factory travel). The only downside is the tube/shaft is 14mm as opposed to 12mm factory but I think this should just mean I have to drill out the top hats (or if I end up with camber plates, getting a suitable mount or whatever). Going to do a final measure up tonight to double check it will all work otherwise its all go! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Oh man now Im lost haha. So mocked things up knowing the measurements of the vw inserts and this is what it looks like. Top yellow tape is where the top mount will be, bottom yellow tape is where the top of the strut tube will be once shortened. 1st is with no keeper spring, sleeve sitting at top of shortened strut, and spring positioned to keep captive. 2nd is with keeper springs, sleeve at the same position, and springs positioned keep everything captive. My calculations (1.6kg/mm and 6kg/mm spring rates, and assuming 200kg per corner) say that if the bottom of the spring was in the same place as factory, the car would sit 35mm lower. However with no keepers (1st photo) its about 80mm above, so in theory car would sit 50mm higher. With keepers (2nd photo) they would collapse and put the main spring at about the same level as the factory perch, therefore car would sit around 50mm lower that standard. which is shit balls. So I guess I want a shock with less stroke? OR shorten the ones I used in the mockup to suit? Or am I completely missing something here..... //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Pickd things up/spent more money. Picked up motor and box this morning and also grabbed a pair of vw inserts. Fit perfectly in the struts, next step to chop chop. Joe/kicker might raid your shed one day and use vice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Gave engine an box a good clean up, so far so good. Painted up engine and looks pretty tasty.Need a few things before its ready to roll new clutch and pressure plate get flywheel cleaned up (its rather rusty) shifter bushes for gearbox Thats about it really. Pulled waterpump off and it looks good inside so I wont bother replacing, coolant passages also are reasonably healthy looking which is a plus. People say the a15 needs a bigger radiator so I guess I should look into this....trip to pickapart I think. I need to man and and start cutting some struts to sort the front end out, and then figure out how much I need take out of the leafs in the back. Then its time to pull it off the road and swap everything in. I also want to clean up and paint the engine bay, whats the best way to do this? Not wanting show room finish, just a half decent colour match. I guess as the paint is OG its just a case of finding someone to mix up some paint for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 motor looking a bit fresher And flywheel not so fresh. The clutch was stuck to it and has left ridges between the pads of the clutch, and also pitting in palces. I take it I can get this faced/machined slightly to sort this out? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Still slowly chipping away. Have front coilovers all mocked up (had to sort out top hats etc) using factor top mounts. Not sure If I will need to run camber plates yet, time will tell. Decided to waiti until new motor is in before finalising the height and weldy weld. Have a few things to get sorted before motor can go in, namely new clutch and gbox mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Still working away slowly. Got a new clutch kit a release bearing on its way. Also need to get flywheel skimmed.Had a good day at pickapart, got a c20 (vanette) radiator, not 100% on condition but the water that came out was green and no obviuos leaks so a good start. Also pilaged some bolts and hoses that Im missing from my a15.Trying get get everything all sorted first so when I take the car of the road its all good to go 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 more useless updates! New clutch, pressure plate and release bearing arrive (thanks Bart!). Pressed out old bearing and fitted new one. Will get flywheel machined this weekend (its well pitted etc from sitting) and thats that sorted. Big thanks to jas1200 for providing part number for new gbox mount, will order one of those today. Then its time to bolt the box on the motor and ready to drop in! Geoff, might be on your case to borrow that engine crane again...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Progress! Got flywheel machined, fitted up new clutch etc all shiney and fancy Wacked gbox on Will rip out the engine this arvo and see how far I get getting the new one in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Good day and bad day..... Pulled old engine out, chucked new one in (thanks Joe!) and stared wiring it/plumbing it in. A couple of immediate things to sort but nothing major. However.....I wired it up in an attempt to start it up. Just a click from the starter motor. Hmm perhaps it a dud I think to my self. Go to turn motor over by had (it used turn over freely before I bolted gox on) and its super stiff and something is grinding against something. I guess I must have fucked something up when bolting the flywheel and clutch up. pretty pissed off tbh haha, have to pull engine and box back out again and see whats what. Job for tomorrow I think. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 happy happy joy joy. Pulled motor and box out of the hole (2nd time in two days!) and striaght away noticed the starter motor wasnt quite lined up when I bolted it on....woops. Fixed it up and its smooth as. So will chuck it back in tomorrow and try again! Also got some camber plates (thanks Brendan!) so coilovers are getting closer to done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 bow chicka wow wow HUUUUUGE thanks to Joe helping me out the last few nights and helping sort out a few teething issues and timing it up etc Since the video have done throttle cable and plumbed in radiator (just the standard one for now) and starts nicely off the key. Next up is to sort the gearbox mount and crossmember out, and sort exhaust (hopefully just cut and shut). discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-19 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Been working through the small niggles, just about there. All he under bonnet stuff is done, gbox mount on its way and then need to make up x-member and then get exhaust welded up (held together with redbull can at the mo....) Cant wait to give it a road test, engine seems to rev freely, although pulses like a rotang at idle/anything below 2000rpm. NOt quite sure whats going on there. Have spent ages tinkering with the ingnition side of things but nothing seems to help. I reallly shoudl pull carb done and clean/rebuild it. I had the top off it the other day and a couple of the jets are stripped so will be a cunt of a job, think Ill just keep an keep out for another to clean up. Also pulled rear left axle out as it looks liek it isnt running true (wheel/hub appears to wobble). Bearings are not original, have been replaced with sealed type whih is good and are in good shape, very smooth and no play. I couldnt spot a bend in the axle or anything so chucked it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Went for a slow drive down the road, yay. Something not right though, it idles like an absolute sack and Im not confident its revving properly (sounds like 3) and runs on for aaaaages. Timing is set about 8 btdc (book says 7 i think, so close enough). Have checked tdc and it lines up with 0 on the timing marks so I take it they are all good. Will check points again but Im pretty sure they are gapped fine. Points, condenser, rotor, cap and leads are all off the running a12 I pulled out. Any ideas on what to try? Will pull the carb down this arvo and give it a proper clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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