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Beaver's Datsun 120y coupe


Beaver

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Got gearbox all mounted up today. HAd to make two adaptor plates as the manual x-member sits forward for the holes in the body. No photos as I got sick of being under the car and its pretty boring.

 

Just need to round of the edges and cover in underseal to make them look factory.....

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Turns out Im just a sissy and it needed a bit more lube.....

 

IMAG0153_zps69c7ebda.jpg

 

So yeh, got driveshaft in, finished up gearbox xmember adaptor thingys (just need to get two more bolts then will spray it all in underseal, factory right?). Had to trim most of the rear gbox seal cup thingy (just the metal bit) as the dshaft was hitting it. Plenty of room for movement now.

 

So yeh its all bolted back together underneath the car.

 

Still to do

 

  • sort out throttle cable (think il just go custom to save fucking about)
  • wait for exhaust to arrive, hopefully tomorrow, chuck that on, get it welded to rest of exhaust
  • fill up fluids

think thats it!

 

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-12

 

 

 

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ill just put this here

 

 

th_VIDEO0019_zps5d0c8827.jpg

 

 

have since put throttle cable back on (which I made this morning) and works a treat. the noise is glorious!

 

Gearbox and clutch apear to be working fine, havnt put it back on the ground yet so road test is next on the list

discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-12

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Went for a quick dort round the block. so fucking sweet. runs like a dream, sounds like angels and gearbox seems mint. such a different car to drive!!

Although it appears I have a severe rear gearbox leak.....will look at it tomorrow.

So fucking chuffed right now.

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when for a hoon on the motorway, runs well.

Have had a vibration/noise which sounds liek its coming from the back for some time (did it beore I started the recent gbox swap tc) and thought it was the driveshaft so didnt bother looking into it as I ised a different one for the swap.

However its still doing it. It comes and goes and you can hear it build up then dissipate. Cant really feel the virbation but it sounds like one. Rear wheel bearing(s) perhaps? Diff has had a oil change a few months ago.

Whats the best way to check the bearings? I know the will have to be cut/smashed off so yeh, not yet keen to do them for the sake of doing them.

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Still goes, good start really.

Stripped down one of the carbs as it was dumping gas out the overflow and the pin the the float sits on is a tight fit (unlike your mum) and I think its stopping it from working properly. Well it makes sense anyway so worth a shot

Also chucked a hose clamp around the back of the gbox (where the real seal is) to close up the crack. Seems to have helped (well it went from dripping to not dripping that thats a good start.

Think Il grab another driveshaft as Im getting pretty bad vibrations and the UJs are pretty suspect/notchy so wont hurt. They are staked in joints so not really replacable. Have found another driveshaft for chea that apparently was allgood so worth a shot.

Also, question time. There is an odd miss with the carbs that happens in two scenarios. First, it does it randomly when idling, just a short shaft pooft noise (may also do it when under load, hard to tell/hear) and I can pretty much make it do it 99% of the time on overrun (like if rolling down a hill and then applying the throttle, as soon as I hit the gas it will miss). Do these symptoms point towards anything?

Each runner on the manofild has a vacuum line/offtake plumped in which I am not using, so I have put a short piece of hose with a tight fitting bolt in the end. There is also a single air line from the carbs (1 line in total) which I have done the same thing (I think this normaly goes to the airbox?),

Is it possible that there is a leak in one of these hoses causing this?

Cheers

Discussion/advice //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-12

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Urgh these carbs are doing my head in.Thought I had solved the one carb overflowing issue, nope. Tweaked the float level again, pretty sure t got worse/didnt change. Swapped over the needle valve with another one of the carbs and then 3 of them started hosing out the overflow.....then have up for the day. Am thinking maybe it is pressure related? and the needle valves cant handle the constant pressure of the car pump (iirc bike pumps run at a lower pressure)

EDIT: the factory fuel pump is 2.6psi so this should be fine (they rekon run bike carbs up to 3psi). Perhaps te needle valve isnt heafty enough to hold fuel back when the pump just keeps pushing....

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right, think Ive figured it out. Couldnt get it to run on all cylinders for some reasons and was pissing gas everywhere, which is strange as it was runnng OK up untill today.

So long story short I disconnect the fuel pump so the carbs where only running on gas in the bowls and it ran perfect. I could also blow into the fuel line (into the carbs) and make the float valves open and fuel would come out the overflow so Im guessing this is what is happening when the pump is running.

So looks like a pressure regulator it is then!

EDIT: On further thought, I dont know if droppign the pressure will help (well it probably will but I dont think its the best way). Im looking at self-regulating electric pumps which I think will be best as they can still provide 2-3psi pressure, but when the float valve shuts in the carbs my understanding is it will notice the increase in pressure in the system and recirculate or whatever. Makes sense in my head....

Also dudes at repco were busting a nut over this today, made me lol. Old dude was all hmm tripple carbs? then was all blankface spec when I said they were bike carbs

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-12

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Woops....just brought myself a wee present (well four of them actually). shame about the 6 week wait

 

923392_10151426916917285_1343235428_n.jp

 

Work equip 01s 13x7 (0 offset) 

 

Really just a way to force me to lower it more to pull off 13s. hah.

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  • 3 weeks later...

more lame pictureless updates....

 

wired up the new fuel pump, works perfectly. got a set of rebuilt kits (basically just new float needle valves and idle mixture screws) for the carbs so did that today as well, havnt chucked them back on the car yet.

 

fingers crossed it solves the issues, cant wait for max doorts

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right, put bike carbs back on, started up a dream and looks to have solved the fuel issue.

 

NEw problem though is the idle wont drop below 1500rpm. I have had the throttle butterfly out of one of the carbs so I suspect I didnt put it back in perfectly and it is stopping them from shutting all the way. If I push and hold down on the throttle cam it drops the idle down but when I let go it comes back up so I think its catching.

 

Otherwise looks to be good to go. Will whip them back off and have a fiddle and hopefully sort it out.  

 

New fuel pump (from fuelflow.co.nz, highly recommend these guys)

 

 P7070152_tn_zps7483b0f1.jpg

 

carbs back on

 

P7070154_tn_zps6c958ff5.jpg

 

 

and next job, bolt these on welded up to rest of exhaust

 

P7070155_tn_zps56bf83f5.jpg

 

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-12

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wheels are in the country!!

Item number Class of goods Latest date Latest status Latest handling office Prefecture

CI 051 447 150 JP International 07/27/2013 Retention MMM NEW ZEALAND

CI 051 447 013 JP International 07/27/2013 Retention MMM NEW ZEALAND

Just thought, will I have to pay GST/customs feed? fuck

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fucking yay

P7290164_tn_zpsf1368666.jpg

super stoked with how good condition they are in. Will come up a million bucks with a polish and new bolts. Missing one centrecap, so I guess I better start browsing jap bay/yahoo whatever its called.

Now to find some money to get tyres....anyone got a cheap set of 175/50R13s?

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-14

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urgh.

Turns out its been running on three cylinders....woops. I suspect only at idle but maybe not at all.

Long story short its one of the carbs (chucked factory carb on and its purring again). Stripped it down (as much as I could without dismantling the bank of 4, which only leaves the air cut off valve which comes into pay at idle) and cleaned everything but no go. Think I will have to pull them apart.

Ah well, at least its running for swapmeet.

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Never a dull day with this thing haha.

 

Took to swapmeat, left home all good, by the edge of town the thing wouldn't idle and then developed a miss at constant speed.

 

Quick tickle on Saturday (thanks for the help joe), and a new condenser (got new points but they didn't fit properly) and reset valve clearances and it ran much better (no miss) and found that the anti dieseling solenoid (cuts of fuel in the carb when you turn the key off) was faulty/wire had ripped off so ditched that and solved the lack of idle.

 

Will take the driveshaft in this week to get the joints (Staked in) replaced and balanced up as it vibrates like you mums pocket rocket.

 

Thanks (again) to Joe, have some 175/60s to stick on my new wheels to get them rolling.

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Driveshaft is away getting rebuilt and balanced, hopefully sort out some of the vibrations.

Got two tyres (175/60s for now) on new wheels (thanks to Joe, and will have two more next week!) so chucked them on. Obviously needs to go lower but it is not as comical as I was expecting so will roll them once all tyres are on. got the ruler out and another 2" drop will tuck ~10mm tyre up front and a bit more at the back (sills are level) so thats the next step. Will then be able to run 175/50s without looking stupid.

 

P8100161_tn_zps9dd257b9.jpg

 

abuse //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33955-beavers-wuntwennywhy-coupe/page-15
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update.

All wheels are fitted up and chucked them on.

Driveshaft is back in.

Also I think there is somthing up with the diff. It makes an odd noise sometime when driving and I had it idling in 2nd on axle stands and it was making the same noise. It also looked like the left axle/hub face wasnt spinning true.

Interesting.

Bring on hanmer!

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