cute wee gem Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 So.. I bought some fancy trizac and abralon pads, cut the clear back and polished with some mirka c20, then f05 I think, followed by Lwax. Swirl marks galore and bugger all shine, made sure I had clean water etc.. So.. Did it by hand with 1200-1500-2000 then turtle wax rubbing compound Much better! it's much more shiny, but once it's in certain light it looks terrible So.. I thought fuck this, lets ask OS! Wow this looks good! *rolls car out of shed* Fuck!... Why am I so shit? Edit: only above the trim has been done, you'll notice the bottom half looks normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 fesh paint? 3000g trizacs are the bizniz so moare c20 (i prefer g3 over mirka but hey its all toothpaste) hit it again withe the buff also if you are using a lambswool pad they take ages to 'break in' and new ones dont cut for shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 have had good results with a little buffer and some turtle wax shine stuff. keep in mind that my paint is pretty fucked, we put the base coat on too thin so it needs re-doing, the couple panels we touched up on other side shined up way better because it had a much more uniform base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 fesh paint?3000g trizacs are the bizniz so moare c20 (i prefer g3 over mirka but hey its all toothpaste) hit it again withe the buff also if you are using a lambswool pad they take ages to 'break in' and new ones dont cut for shit Paint is a few months old now, would have been 4 weeks before I started polishing. My lambswool pad is pretty old but hasn't had lots of work. I have some of those foam pads too, what's best to use? I had 1500 trizac and I used the 2500 abralon after that, I had quite a few pigtails That pic is after doing it by hand, few deep pigtails and shit left but it's a lot better, just dull, swirly and ugly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Fucking pad names confuse. Do they have a cut rating up the side of the bottle like meguiars stz do? I work low to highest, normally under super bright led torch or similar in one spot. Try with something low ie light cut on a polishing pad, if no desired result, step up to heavier cut, work up in pad etc don't start right at the most agressive cut and work back. Without seeing that it looks swirly as fuck from that wool pad. Ive never used wool before but I think of it as a heavy cutting pad. For swirls like that I'd be going polishing pad with medium-heavy cut then finish with a low cut/swirl remover. Edit: DA or rotary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abarth Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Looks like you need Meguiars #81 Hand Polish, its a light grade polish. Rated one out of ten in cutting strenght. Polishing cars is a two stage process, first use a harsher cutting compound / wet and dry 2000 grit sandpaper to remove all the orange peel or scraches. Doing this will leave scraches. Second polish out those said scraches with a lighter polish to bring up the shine. The problem with your paint is the final polish is too harsh. Swirl marks are the hardest to remove and the sun is always the harshest critic! Dont use a wool pad on the final polish as they are too harsh and will leave swirls. Use wool on your first cut. Foam pad for final polish. Use that Meguiars #81 and a soft foam pad doing square foot sections at a time. Do about ten passes per square foot to give the polish time to break down and smooth off and give a swirl free shine. It takes ages to do properly! Chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtdvl Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Took me 9 hours to do the girlfriends 307 properly... but damm did it come out nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Rotary. Thanks for the info, the Mirka stuff didn't seem to get any shine so I went for the turtle wax which I guess is quite harsh. Do you mean polish names confuse Alistair? c20 is the harshest from Mirka I think, f05 is quite fine. c20 didn't shine up like the turtle wax. I'll try the #81 stuff with a foam pad (flat or waffle type?) I don't understand why the Mirka stuff isn't working for me very well though? 9 hours? I think I'm a bit impatient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 can take days to get a dark car to sweet standards ive tryed heaps (probably everything worth trying) of products and mirka c20 is a harsh paste, if you have a little budget left go out and get some farecla G3 and a farecla compounding foam pad for your first buff, buff that shit in at 2000rpm till its cleaned its self off then hit it with a black foam/waffle pad and a 3m machine polish (available in dark paint specialtys) crank the speed up a little and use a bit of water spray and plenty of polish and buff it clean again ive never used 1500 trizacs only 3000 and i did once try the 2000 mirka foam pads but found they took too long to buff out so went back ps my van is 2k black and made of pigtails so i feel your pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 also dont aim for shine from the get go, products can lie to you ie waxing a panel cut with 2000 will look better but really isnt you need to get the swirl free gloss with cutting compounds and your finishing wax will add the depth try some c20 on a firm foam pad then your 05 on a soft foam pad then see how it looks without any wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abarth Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Rotary.I'll try the #81 stuff with a foam pad (flat or waffle type?) I don't understand why the Mirka stuff isn't working for me very well though? 9 hours? I think I'm a bit impatient Use the #81 meguairs with a meguairs diamond cut foam pad / waffle. #81 is ultra light, is green and has an oily texture. Using a rotary polisher do what I mention before. Its litterally just the final finishing polish thats leaving all those trails and holograms. This is probably why a proffessional paint job cost so much tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophski Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 i've found if you spray a bit of water on your wool pad u should get a bit more life outa the compund. give the pad a clean with a screw driver before you start make sure your not rubbing any nasties into the paint, if that don't help a good hand glaze will hide all the nasties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 hiding is not the object of the game make sure you wash it with a wax free detergent afterwards (dare i say dishwash liquid) it will remove any fillers left by the compound and show your true result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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