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How to Wire up a 1UZ engine (VVTI and non-VVTI)


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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

What happened to this thread? Looks like some of the useful info I could use is gone.

 

I have a 1UZ that I have wired in, triple checked everything and vehicle wants to go, I got 2 injection triggers out of ECU then stops so engine won't run for more than a second. I suspect this is to do with immobilizer in the loom. Can anyone shed any light on this?

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What happened to this thread? Looks like some of the useful info I could use is gone.

 

I have a 1UZ that I have wired in, triple checked everything and vehicle wants to go, I got 2 injection triggers out of ECU then stops so engine won't run for more than a second. I suspect this is to do with immobilizer in the loom. Can anyone shed any light on this?

 

Check out the link in the post above yours maybe of some use

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have come to the conclusion I have a faulty ECU.

 

This is what I got

 

12v+ out MREL with ign on

12v+ permanent on B+

12v+ ign on IGSW

12v- on E01 and E02

12v on one side of all injectors, coil and ign module.

Pulse from crank sensor

Pulse from both cam sensor

 

I have no ignition module trigger from ecu, no injection pulse from ecu, nothing coming out wire for check engine light, no fuel pump relay '-' output.

 

The way I see it, I have a faulty ECU, weak crank/cam signals or a stupid person looking at it.

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ok lets start from the top  I need to know what model engine and model of ecu .  what do you have M-REL turning on ...on the engine    you cant get the engine light to work seems to point to maybe a wiring fault .   but if you are running a late model ecu with immobiliser  system and no  transponder key you will never get it to run   unless you send your ecu to kelvin at the car tune comp for it to be re-chiped  and have this function removed  from the ecu  ..there are other ways to get around it but lots of time and you need to understand how the system works  .. the guy ( nigel ) that wrote this site knows a way  aswell ( I think )   anyway I have most factory Toyota wiring for most of these uz   if you want to call me     0273573253  Lloyd..  some times a phone call is a lot easier

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ok lets start from the top  I need to know what model engine and model of ecu .  what do you have M-REL turning on ...on the engine    you cant get the engine light to work seems to point to maybe a wiring fault .   but if you are running a late model ecu with immobiliser  system and no  transponder key you will never get it to run   unless you send your ecu to kelvin at the car tune comp for it to be re-chiped  and have this function removed  from the ecu  ..there are other ways to get around it but lots of time and you need to understand how the system works  .. the guy ( nigel ) that wrote this site knows a way  aswell ( I think )   anyway I have most factory Toyota wiring for most of these uz   if you want to call me     0273573253  Lloyd..  some times a phone call is a lot easier

 Engine is a series 1 from the best I can tell, model of ecu is 89661-50102 or 1750004011. MREL is turning on main efi relay control side, as far as i can tell from my wiring diagram which has proven to be accurate so far I have no immobilizer, other than the one that grounds the starter relay, but that isnt wired in.

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your in luck I have a ucf 11 in the shed now being wired up and it runs very nice .  ...just check for me the fuel rails are they machined or cast  please.    RIGHT LETS GO INTO HOW I WIRE THEM ..efi relay is turned on by M-rel  and this relay is to only supply B+ and AFM  don't use this for the CO of the fuel pump circuit  I have a trick for this now that gives a prime for start up .   next  I wire the ignition relay to turn on the ign to the ecu  the trans   coil and injectors  .    what have you done with NSW  and STA   .        I take it your ecu  is the 40,40,40, type yes or no please.  some of the earlier ecu have have B+1 in pin 32 0f plug( A)  that can be missed .  I wonder  can you check both the plugs to your igniters  I had on once that was pluged in but had one bent male pin so was not plugged in and would give the same fault that you have  ...  next I want you to put a test light into pin 6 of the 40 pin plug  (A) and supply 12volts to the clamp end   then fit a jump wire from pin 20 of plug ( A )  to pin 69 on plug ( B ) if the ecu is powered up correctly  the warning / fault light will light up  with the key turned on                  as a test send me your ECU  and I will plug it in to mine  or my mates one .  if you want to do that  its free and would only be over nite  .. or take it out of your vehicle and do this  feed 12 volts to pins    1 , 31, 32, 33 of plug A         earth pins 69, 79, 80, of plug B    fit you test light to pin 6 on plug A  then supply B+ 12 VOLTS  to other end     the warning light is an earth out put   sorry to ramble on

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fault code 38..............  I found this fault last nite on a older model 1uzfe  40,40,40, type ecu    with E1 and TE1 bridge the OD light would flash out 38 .  so did the usual google search and looked around  then found  it code 38 ( and its not in lexstrem  either  )  38 is trans oil temp  ....  so looked around the wiring loom and can not see any extra wiring  .         so long story short  if you have a 8 pin plug to the ect sol plug  the extra black and brown wires are to the AT temp sensor   /// pin 24 of plug b on the ecu

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  • 2 weeks later...

So turns out its it was a ECU fault, blown earth trace inside ECU, got that repaired and overhaul by anything electronic in nelson, got it back and it starts. How ever no fuel pump relay output from ECU (i earth relay myself to get vehicle to run). Unfortuately it seems to be in some kind of limp mode and won't rev out. Pick up the revs and I it revs pulse up and down, if i plant my foot it sounds like its getting a hard injector cut about 3k rpm. Haven't checked the codes yet, that'll be next.

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bridge E1 AND T1 OR TE1  at the ecu  then fit a light at the w pin and supply 12 volts to other side of  light  then turn the key on  IT WILL FLASH THE CODES YOU NEED THEM  still sounds like you have a wiring fault  give me a call am interested in sorting this with you  0273573253 lloyd

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  • 3 years later...

Can I remove the diagnostic plug from the engine loom and get rid of like a million wires? I think the answer is yes....

I'd just use TE1 and E1 and W to get fault codes. Like WTF am I going to plug into that big diagnostic plug on top of the engine??

 

 

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