d.p.n.s Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 i drove the car yesterday and all was fine. got up to go to work today and it wont start. its a 93 mitsi galant 1800 v6 it has fuel going to it it has a good spark. ive cleaned the afm and taken the old filter out so its not that. any ideas please as with out it im fucked and cant aford another car at the moment cheers dan p.s you can text me if easyer 0212140427 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3spct Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Possibly flooded? Nissans can have a tendancy to do that, some toyotas too. Take the fuel pump fuse/relay out and crank it with throttle full on, or unplug injectors if need be. Might take a while. Might need to remove plugs and check for excess fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 This^ My pulsar did it to me the other day and while I didnt unplug the fuel pump I just held the throttle wide open and cranked for 30seconds or so and it finally started coughing and fired up. Plugs were fucking soaked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 realisitically it would have to be flooding, or the timing has somehow re-arranged itself. Or it was too coooold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 usually the distributor module plays up causing complete ignition cut and wont spark until the module cools down after a few moments, then repeats the cycle, but if you have spark then it probably isn't that. I had an issue with a 6A13 SOHC Legnum that just started to run real rough at an intersection and stalled and refused to start back up again. Turns out the dizzy cap was at fault, the center prong from the coil got stuck pressed down and the spring didn't push it against the rotor. I replaced the dizzy cap and rotor and found it still wouldn't start because it was flooded from all the repeat attempts at trying to start before. Once new plugs were in it ran fine again. Another thing to look at is the ECU, it should be mounted under the center console close to the firewall, with access from the kick panels around the feet etc. Remove the ECU and open it up and check the condition of the electrolytic capacitors and the surrounding tracks on the circuit board. Often the capacitors leak their fluid out and destroy the tracks giving all sorts of issues. Sometimes this is preceded by the catalytic converter warning lamp coming on, or a smell of rotten fish/electrical burning smell coming from under the dash. This was found when removing the ECU from an E35A Galant, the capacitors leaked and damaged the idle control circuit which caused one of the stepper motor drivers to literally blow up: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 thanks lads shes alive bit of a cunt of a job as the inlet mainfold needs to come off to get to the rear plugs and injectors. but all good now just got 2 truck battarys and cranked it over for a good few minutes and now shes all good. thanks again dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 yeah bit of a job when first doing it but pretty easy when you do it more than once. At least the SOHC ones are a bit easier to do than the DOHC engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 ture and thanks again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.