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ABS pump replacement


shavenYak

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Heyyyyy

Amber's got a '92 Pulsar X1 Hatchback, and recently the ABS pump died.

What happened was she hit a speed bump pretty quick, the ABS pump whirred, and then didn't stop whirring until the battery died later that night.. Once I got the car going again the pump kept pumping away. I tried giving the motor a gentle tap with a hammer (seemed a sensible thing to do at the time) and the thing starts squealing horribly for a few seconds then the fuse blew.

So I figure I should replace the whole unit - but bloody hell they're expensive!

However there's one on TM I've been offered for $40. The thing is it's out of a GTI-R, which I assume has bigger brakes. The number on ours is 47600 55Y00, and the number on the GTIR one is 47600 60Y00.

Would it be unwise to buy and fit this? Will it work at all? Will it blow up in a massive fireball? Maybe I should just mash it in and see what happens?

If I do replace it, what would the procedure be for bleeding?

FANKS

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i wouldnt recommend doing it, gtir pulsars have 4 wheel discs and x1 i believe is disc and drum, the pump will definately be different as the gtir will need more fluid to be supplied to the front/rear brakes (bigger than x1) so you will find if it does happen to bolt in it will do all sorts of weird things when brakes applies or not work at all and just bring abs light up

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^^ that should be controlled by the proportioning valve rather than the ABS pump/brake master cylinder itself. I know with my E39A VR-4 which would have a similar era ABS setup, it goes from the brake master cylinder with two circuits to the ABS pump where it splits out to each individual wheel, however the lines going to both the rear wheels go through a proportioning valve to adjust the balance going to the rears.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ended up buying the GTIR pump, but didn't end up using it. (was fucked in several ways) I took the motor off the existing pump, tested it on the bench, it seemed ok. Put it back together, bled the brakes and took it for a drive.

The compressor pumps up after driving a couple of meters, but then the light turns on and stays on. I played with the plugs on the motor and tried again, and this time it was ok! The compressor pumps up, ABS works like it should on hard braking.

BUT - once the abs has fired, the light comes on and you have to turn the car off and on again. So something's not quite right. Pretty sure it should pass a WOF, unless they slam the brakes on and fire the abs. Guess it depends on the place - somewhere like VTNZ who have those roller brake testers would be ideal?

If it does fail, or even if it doesn't, I'd like to sort out the problem. There would be some kind of ABS code-reading device thing that could diagnose it? Would I have to go to a Nissan dealer, or would most mechanics/brake specialists have this?

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Kinda sick of having to put this at the start of every post since it makes me sound like a knob....BUT...On 1994+ Subarus you can bridge a couple pins and get the ABS light to flash out an error code. On 89-94 models, the ABS controller has a small LED on it which flashes out error codes constantly when a problem is detected. Have used this method to diagnose a faulty sensor on my old GT.

Maybe Nissan has something similar?

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Don't forget to buy a new relay too, as I expect that was the original problem (not that I know anything about these Nissans)

Mid-late 1990s Range Rovers had an electric ABS pump and dodgy relays, but the pump motors would melt long before the battery ran flat. The entire pump arrangement was $13,400...... lucky you could buy just the motors I guess. A snip at about $1,500

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