running in

[stacy]

hey there,does anybody have any recomendations on running in oil/conditions,i have a new engine and im not that keen on blowing it up too quickly,i was informed to drive it hard when running in as it will go better later on in life it is a 4g54 2.6 l200 engine new pistons,rings,bearings,crank grind etc,any feed back would be choice thanks,stace

[Simon]

I guess it's had the bores honed?

Yes, run it hard. Don't start it up and thrash immediately. Then give it some decent load at 4-5krpm. Let it warm up for a bit at idle first.

Don't rev it too high. What you are trying to achieve is pushing the new rings against the freshly honed bore nice and hard so the bore cuts the rings to the proper shape before the hone marks go away or get glazed over.

[KKtrips]

Make sure the radiator is all bled (with no antifreeze yet) and the tappets are set and all the pre running checks are done etc

Use running in oil and a new filter if your budget allows

Crank engine with coil disconnected until you get oil pressure and fuel should be at the carb.

Providing you don't have a new/refaced cam/lifters you should run the engine at varying RPM between 1000 and 3000rpm until it is up to tempreture and the electric fan has cycled a couple of times. Trying not to hold the revs at the same level for too long.

Make sure the temp doesn't get too hot and once you are done shut it down.

I gather its an alloy headed motor so let the engine cool down overnight to stone cold and retorque the head, set tappets, change oil and oil filter.

Finish the rest of your assembly items and tune it etc.

When driving it/running it in for the first 800km do not thrash it or baby it - a good general driving technique is required and do not labour it in any one gear and keep the revs from staying too static for the first 50 odd km - don't tow any heavy loads or extended hold on the clutch - hill starts.

Once you have completed 800km retorque the head (with engine stone cold), set tappets and retune as normal. Drain radiator and refill with antifreeze.

Drive as per normal..

[stacy]

that was my understanding i have run engines in at work but have done what engine builder has asked for this is my own engine and want to be able to give it a hard time later on down the track read skids etc,yes im pretty sure its about 5thou over size and so clean inside you could eat off it

[Vintage Grumble]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

^ I did a lot of research on this before I ran my motor in, this guys ideas made a lot of sence to me, so did it this way.

[bubblegoose]

having ran in a fleet of 35 race school folowing various methods i can confirm that the mototune guy knows his shit/bike ran in under methods similar to his ran like new the whole 3 years, a few of the ones that were ran in as per manufactures specs began to get a slightly smokey under load after about 8000miles and seemed to be a little slower on the straights

his method put simply, keep revs relatively sensible (no more than 5.5-6k) but keep the load up (80-100%) as much as possible, also engine brake a bit more during break-in too.the motorway at night is good for this

do this for 500k on basic mineral oil then change to what ever you plan on using and drive how you wish

this is only iof you feel comfortable doing it, after all it is your engine. i myself will be using the Bowt method of break-in

[Vintage Grumble]

Yep, I just went out for a drive each night, loaded it up through the gears, then engine braked back down, kept it under 3500rpm to start with I think, each night going about 500rpm higher in the rev range, worked well. Just be careful of traffic behind you.

[RUNAMUCK]

The "hard" break in method is really only the go if your engine has moly top rings. Old school Iron rings actually prefer the "conventional" method. (moly rings are intended to break in fast, and require a finer hone, whereas iron rings take much longer and require a coarser hone)

[stacy]

thanks guys this is just what i was after i feel i lot more confident now and that link was awesome just didnt want to cook any thing its also hard when i dont know whats inside the engine or whats been done to it but the price was right and it now has new/recod every thing so it should be good for another 400,000 ks i appreciate all the help guys ill post results when i fire it up in the next couple of weeks