keltik Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Original motor had points ignition and my new one uses a hall effect/optical pickup inside the distributor. Theres also a big chunky transistor thing in there that im assuming uses the low current signal from the sensor to switch the coil. Do i need to change my coil or do any other fancy wiring here? Dont really want to fry my shiny new distributor. Cost me $50 that did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 you can keep the original coil if you want without doing any damage, but ideally you would change to a non ballast resisted coil to get the better performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 whats it on? if it has a pick up in dizzi then will need some sort of ignitor and a ignition module to control the curve, the ignitor is like a solid state relay that switches the coil on and off when the module tells it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 28, 2010 Author Share Posted October 28, 2010 Any way to tell apart a ballast resisted coil? The original coil has a small white block on the bracket that one of the leads pass through. The distributor seems to have the ignitor inside it. The distributor has vacuum advance to sort out the ignition curve. Distributor is off a Subaru EJ18 motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 That white block is the ballast resistor, personally I would just grab a coil from a wreckers thats out of a electronic ignition car or a Bosch HEC717 or something from supercheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 http://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 28, 2010 Author Share Posted October 28, 2010 I picked up a coil from a 1992 Brumby (electronic ignition) which had a resistance of 2ohm on the primary winding. My current coil also has a 2ohm resistance there but has another 2ohms added when including the ballast. Can i just remove the ballast from my current coil and save myself $120? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 I picked up a coil from a 1992 Brumby (electronic ignition) which had a resistance of 2ohm on the primary winding. My current coil also has a 2ohm resistance there but has another 2ohms added when including the ballast.Can i just remove the ballast from my current coil and save myself $120? no, it will cook. coils with a balist resister like running at about 7 volts. and when you are crankn the motor it gets full battery voltage - about 10 - 12 volts. then once u let the key go it uses the ballist resister again. just go abco and get a coil off a telstar or sum shit. or a new one if its worth it to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 Ah yup. Cheers eke. Got a coil off a Piazza i think. That should do the job im guessing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 weird choice lol, injection one? shud be sweet. just want a 12v one really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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