Clunking noise over undulations at low speed

[fuel]

very common problem on those is the ball joint on the end of the front lower control arm wearing. i lost count of how many of those arms i replaced on 12 month old galants under warranty when i worked at mitsi

This man has it!

Get it replaced ASAP, the longer you leave it the worse it gets to the point where the ball joint will shear off completely (it should fail a WOF long before this happens however).

[fuel]

if it is your lower suspension arm (there are two per side, one straight arm and one curved arm), I can supply an aftermarket one, TRW brand the same you would get at Repco/Supercheap/BNT etc for approx $90 per arm. Though I don't have first hand experience with how long these arms last, I have heard of them not lasting as long as genuine. A genuine Mitsi arm is about $250 retail (one side is about $50 cheaper for some strange reason, they look identical) but you can get them from Ralliart for under $200. I can try my guy at Ingham Mitsubishi and see what he can do one for you for.

The reason they failed so early in life is there was a fault with the boot seal around the joint letting in moisture leading to premature wear of the arm and as a result they were recalled and fixed under warranty for the NZ-new models and the import models which were still in Japan at the time. MMNZ doesn't want to know about the used imports which have come here and not yet had the recall done. Once they are replaced they should last a few years yet. This is probably one of the biggest issue with that shape Galant/Legnum and the 7th gen shape before it too.

You can check for wear by jacking the front up and getting a crowbar between the rim and the underside of the lower arm, usually the arm has a bit of play and drops down a little as the wheel is jacked up.

[lowlancer]

Yeah, the left hand curved arm is binding I think from the curb hit in it's past, and is proving to be difficult to remove from the subframe. Don't want to go too hard on it as I'll probably crack the subframe or some such.

Am going to jack it up this weekend and have a look around. Thanks for the help guys, E, I'll take you up on that offer pending what I can dig up tomorrow. Thanks again dudes

[Hemi]

Sway bar bushes are common. If they are loose just remove the bush. Then wrap the bar with tape until they fit tight.

Three people bet me too it

dont do this because its fucking retarded

Wow your argument has so many valid points. Whats worng with it anyway it stops the noise, you can't see it if you do it properly, if you did not know about it you would never know its there.

I literally cannot believe your debating this! whats wrong with it is that swaybars have a twisting action with weight on them. after about 4 full suspension travels your adhesive on the tape will be rendered fucking useless and the tape will start to spill out either side of said bush

what did you do for a living again?

instead of ranting myself ill use e's post (its you're bte e)

but yes man seriously who the fuck told you to do that

[Jif]

My old boss who was a mechanic for 30 years told me to do that. After talking with a few people a I now realise I was wrong and Im sorry for suggesting it. Also you should avoid frankton mechanical.

[fulloc]

the control arm part number is CS-514L or ® for the straight lower control arm. I think the curved is CS-515 or get the mitsi number and il see if i can get you one.

i suggest you jack it up and see where the play is before you start buying parts.