fuel Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 seriously you need to work on not loading up a bazillion out of focus, blurry and seemingly irrelevant pictures. My internet connection has a heart attack every time I check your thread for progress to the point where I don't even bother any more. Also at least write some kind of story/blurb accompanying the pics so we actually know what you are trying to depict.. in this case 1000 words IS worth more than a picture.. other than that it looks like it is coming along nicely.. along with your back yard, deck and some seats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 - its all sorted now .. happy princess ? What you saw was a massive dump of pictures 30secs after I did it and then started writing the text. Not that your wrong, I do agree that is a common problem with my thread and I have made attempts to dial the pictures down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Sorry for the mind dump, I just had to get all the stuff out of my head it's was occupying valuable memory space. If you've got some thoughts or opinions feel free to comment. Compression 8.5:1 because 8 is a bit low, but still permissible, H beam steel rods not Ali, not TI, Hell fire rings, 10 thou over tops. (liners) Polish the ports, dont port them the flow doesnt become an issue until 650/700hp. You can go back to the factory lower manifold if you need too, it's fine for 1000hp, but stick with the 8 throttle set up and tidy up the lower flanges, - you could just make another top manifold and use the factory throttle body so keep that fucker for now, - no need to O' ring the head and block, - high quality head gasket a MUST for over 15psi on 1uz's, - factory valves fine must up rated springs must. - consider dropping the displacment to 3.8lts-ish, the issue is the 2mm liners are prone to let go, most folks never have an issue but for the insurance aspect it's a damn good idea, new liners are $60-180 each fitted. - factory cams are ok for post build but will need high lift cams for big numbers, expect limit around 500ish but no hard rule there. Ditch the cam sensors, get a 64 point crank sensor if your really stick with engine bay space consider adding 30cms forward of the lower cross member. - to do that your going to need another bonnet to hack up to create a new nose cone with the lower lip and first 8cm's in the cone. - results in a recessed bonnet needing new hinges (odd but kinda cool). Dont bother with a removable nose cone, they never line up right, nice idea though. Mini tubs will be fine for 10's. There's guys in Oz running 8's in the quarter on 10's with mini tubs and leaf springs, and good shocks, the key is the tramp rods. - 8 inch rear rims should be good for 10's in the quarter, the key is the rubber, it's really improved in the last few years. - run anything less than a 11.X and the tech will boot you off the track, without a cage, - key with mini tubs and no flares is not to lower the heck outta it and you get to keep the rear seats. - chassis joiners done in both ways, so you can run it as a bolt in/out cage tube bracketry or as a weld in box section, either work just fine. - rear ends are usually set up with thin wall tube and tack welded dummy mounts, once dialed in the axle is substituted in and then the second phase of fabrication begins. - 3mm min, but 4mm plate is the norm for diff mounts, 6mm would be ideal, no thicker unless over 1khp and 1k tq. - Keep an eye out for a shortened 9 inch axle which is the right length once that number is known, - the hilux diff is fine but the cost of shortening varys from 1200 - 1650 so it's a bit of a wonder if it's worth it. - 31 spline nine inch only, the 28's are just not going to take it. - 2mm tube is a bit thin for turbo headers, need to redo the passengers side one. - Simco do the v-bands in hamilton: need to ask for a price - Simco have swage tool, - Focusing on the completing the electrics for winter, - need a cut of saw for summer, and plasma cutter, - need 1.2 plate sheet for tubs, and new inner front fenders, - need more cage tube Goal for Winter; - complete the wiring, - simplify the dash wiring, - complete the diagram for the fuse box, it's not even half done. - - make the dash removable so it can be completed and put into storage, - remove everything from the shell, - get the engine and trans out, put them into storage at a family members - after the turbo headers are done (so perhaps early summer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Ditch the battery in boot kit, and make up a sheet metal one to drop down through the boot floor, - Steel; - flat sheet, 1.2 and 4mm, and 1mm, - square tube around 4 mtres, - cage tube, - small tube, 1mm - 2mm, - bar, amount 8mm or so, some 6mm would be nice, find Automotive tags, the little bits of steel that come pre drilled, and rounded, - need some suspension bar tube steel, so thats like 4mm thick ? and probably chromoly, - need more box section 60x80x2mm (or is 3mm) ? - need tube notcher, - need cut off saw, - need a mill or a place to farm that out too. - need drill press vice, - plasma cutter, - ac/dc tig, - fix the compressor nige, - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 hey bro, what modification did you do to your mig to gain tig, I also have a cigweld (200amp) and have always wondered what mod to run it as a tig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 It's pretty easy actually. Open up hand piece first. You need to know if the trigger has two separate circuits or just one. The trigger can either 1. just tell the main relay to fire (well circuit breaker actually), and the gas is a mechcanical switch (as with mine) or 2. Trigger the circuit breaker to the on position, and trigger the gas solenoid too. I'm guessing it's number one. If not, you will need a two way, four pin remote swich, and a four way plug. (so both the gas solenoid and the circuit breaker are remote'd out to the handpeice) If so, you then need two switches on the front panel. 1. a switch; to turn the wire feeder on and off. (because with tig mode you wont need that). 2. a switch; to turn the trigger wire into a remote wire. you also need, 3. (remote switch) a plug mounted to the front panel, with a wire coming off the plug that is at least as long as your tig torch lead. You do this: Tap the wire feed motor + wire, and put it on the switch which will break the circuit. Tap the on/off wire, wire up in such a way that the switch interrupts the circuit, and then feeds that circuit out to the plug (and remote switch). Wire up the plug. put a switch on the end, or do it properly and mount it on the tig torch, or onto a foot pedal (would only be on and off though). Swap the leads for the mig to gasless setting (so reverse the polarity), so the work is positive, and the torch is negative. You have your self a scratch start tig, with remote on/off. Basic, but effective. Oh, check your transformer, make sure it's copper windings, if its Aluminium, dont do this, you might fry it / OR do it, and see how you go Should be ok really, but I'd be cautious at first. Amazingly, using this set up, I was able to melt 6mm steel, and 10mm steel, I'd be lucky to weld 4mm with it usually. ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 any special sort of switch? I'm assuming that as mine is also a cigweld that the trans will also be like yours but I'll check anyway, how does it go on aluminium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Firstly I forgot to mention the gas line goes straight to the reg, as scratch start, if has solenoid ... figure something out that uses that. any special sort of switch? That depends alot on the type of current running through it, I used 10amp 250v switches, with missile covers. Your basic automotive switch really (which is also good for 10amps dc). Just set your volt meter to something which will accommodate 250volts and measure away: it will be less than that for sure. I'm assuming that as mine is also a cigweld that the trans will also be like yours but I'll check anyway, how does it go on aluminium? oh, it would need to be AC for that, pretty sure the output of a MIG transformer is DC. You can get units to transfer DC to AC for that though. You usually find them in Auctions like the below one; I did this, because I didn't see any reason not too, cos it cost like $10NZD, + a $50 tig torch (gas valve on hand piece type)+ $10 for a single tungsten and some welding rods for steel. And because I wanted some tig time, and practise but I didnt want to buy a tig just to have a play. There is no real reason it would not weld Ali, if it's DC (it might not though cos apparently it shouldn't), just try it. Use Argon Pure, heat your rods (oven 110 degrees), and clean your work with stainless steel brushes real well then weld real fast after that (oxidation forms real fast on Ali). http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =497402299 See the box under the welder, you'd want one of them (the seller is probably wrong, thats not a HF unit at all). There is a specific name for them, I keep forgetting it. I also keep missing out on cheap ones, which really pisses me off. A constant voltage, direct current power source is most commonly used with Mig Welding, but constant current systems, as well as alternating current, can be used. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mig_welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 All I'd want tig for is to weld aluminium but I've just been looking at spool guns and they're pretty cheap and easy to setup, but a tig has the attraction of cleaner welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 spool guns are great, tig welding is only as clean as you are good. I learned that pretty fast Mig's weld Ali good enough for most automotive work, but .. tigs come into their own in the smaller spaces, and tight corners (eg a manifold flange to runner weld) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 true that.. maybe I'll wait till I have to make some block huggers haha.. cheers for the info bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 your welcome, hey just a thought; you know that you dont 'need' a spool gun. You can just put the ali wire in the mig and go for it. The spool gun allows you to use thinner wire, but if your using 1.0mm or 1.2mm wire then it should push the wire through just fine. The prob is that ali wire is soft and kinks easily, but the thicker the wire, the less thats an issue. You would need a different liner though, because contamination from the steel (dust) in the liner would ruin your ali welds, and the teflon allows the ali to travel better, but it's its only a test weld go for it with the steel liner and what you have after all, if it works fine, then you wont need the teflon liner. (50/50 you do ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 case and point. http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=500191817 Ali gasless wire ... hrmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 thought about mounting the turbo under the rear of the car? the yanks do it all the time when space is limited in the engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 will fender wall removal not mean you have affected any crumple zones there? eg no cert for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 good point, will do some reading before I cut anything, talk to cert guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobrow Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 The Tig does a nice job of re flowing mig welds, penetration was excellent too. Cant say I've heard of this being done, sounds like your just heating the top of your weld to make it look "pretty", doesnt really affect penetration at all. Kinda scary if thats what is holding your rear end together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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