Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 If I was to bring my rear coilover setup further inboard what would happen? About 150mm total move. Talking about my escort and moving the turret to the inside of the chassis rail rather than the outside. Will allow me to run 2inch wider rims which is what I am trying to achieve. Also on the note of 4link vs 2link. It is so much easier for me to just make two links from the diff to a single bush in the original front leaf mount. I know 2 link is not as good as 4 link but would I notice THAT much difference? In saying that, if I was to move the turret then the 4link would have to prob run inside also. Does anyone know this shit? Need to talk to some onto it cunt who has played escorts before. Ideas please Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 the shocks would have a larger torque on them if they were to move inboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Hrm, but with 4link they are only acting vertically plus aint twsiting. Correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 shocks can only take a linear force anyways. they cant support a moment as they are effectivly a pin jointed member. but the force on them will change as you move them in/out. 2 link and a panhard rod with big swaybars. doit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 What bout Satchel Link. Two arms running forward and two on a 45ish degree angle going to the body. If I put enough adjustment in then I should be able to make a system with no bind and no panhard rod. Whatever setup how do you strengthen the body to take the bars? Or is it a case of building the setup to mount to a decent streghtend location in the first place. I'm a bit worried that if everything is moved inboard then the whole unit can twist up alot easier than if the links were on the outside. Also initial starting points for mounting stuffs, were to start etc with heights. Hrm so many questions. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Not twist up but not act as efficiently. They would need less travel tho at the inside which could be good. Whats the min travel needed? 2.5" each way? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Id say if it is for a primarily street driven car and its not going to be tuned for 10/10ths performance a well setup 2 link with panhard will be perfect. People walk past them and go for watts links and mumford links/blah blah blah. imo (it is a fairly inexperienced opinion mind you) go for the panhard. You build it to work at a certain height and if the panhard is as flat as possible at that height you wont even see any sideways diff movement through susp travel which honestly will be fuck all travel at proper slam levels. Unsure about solidness of mounting points under the car. best to talk to your cert man and see what he wants in the way of reinforcing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 yea i was going to say that you could sort of triangulate with your ladder arms or whatever they are called, out from the centre of the diff to the body (chassis rails if escorts have them) or i geuss yea, the other way from the tunnel to the outer most point on the diff. your questions interesting RE: mounting points, likelyhood is neither of those areas has sweet reinforcement to mount to from factory, i geuss if your going to have a cage or something you could try and suss something that kills two birds with one stone which could be lush for body rigidity ps: i have no exerience in this whatsoever so im just geussing what could work or what ideas id think of if i was doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 yea i was going to say that you could sort of triangulate out from the centre of the diff to the body (chassis rails if escorts have them, or i geuss yea, the other way from the tunnel to the outer most point on the diff.your questions interesting RE: mounting points, likelyhood is neither of those areas has sweet reinforcement to mount to from factory, i geuss if your going to have a cage or something you could try and suss something that kills two birds with one stone They do have chassis rails but they finish at the front of the leaf so pretty far forward. However thatd be about where Id need to go to aviod tyres. Could poss go other way but Im thinking diff is going to end up pretty short and inside of rims get in way. Was going to cage but not right at this stage. Am grabbing the car back from Chris's this weekend and will put on stands and suss it all out. I wanted to get the suspension all done with wheels done then focus on the rest. So yeah, wasnt planning on the cage yet. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Id say if it is for a primarily street driven car and its not going to be tuned for 10/10ths performance a well setup 2 link with panhard will be perfect. People walk past them and go for watts links and mumford links/blah blah blah. imo (it is a fairly inexperienced opinion mind you) go for the panhard. You build it to work at a certain height and if the panhard is as flat as possible at that height you wont even see any sideways diff movement through susp travel which honestly will be fuck all travel at proper slam levels.Unsure about solidness of mounting points under the car. best to talk to your cert man and see what he wants in the way of reinforcing Not a fan of Watts, If I was going for a horizontal link it'd be Panhard for simplicity. Initially I was keen for 2 links + panhard, so a 3link. I need to talk to someone who has done 3link then upgraded to 5. Thatd be key. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 If I was to bring my rear coilover setup further inboard what would happen? About 150mm total move. Anyone know bout this? Need to look at it to see if it'll work but if it does im keen to do this to fit about 10-11inch of awesome in my guards.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 biggest issue that i can imagine is the mounting points on car, if you do something like kpr did on his AE85 then i cant imagine an issue, pete was probably right though with saying the further you move it in the higher rating you'll need. 150mm doesnt seem like much to me, you could even put them on an angle in order to have bottom closer to outside and top with more clearance for reyums, are you going coilover or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSC Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 the further inward you run the shocks the less the actual spring rate at the wheel so the more body roll you would have for a given sway bar etc. i would run a watts linkage as then you can adjust you roll centre by moving the linkage centre pivot point. which should enable you to tune the back end of the car to a set up you like. ideally the axle pin point for the shocks/springs should be as far outward as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSC Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 the biggest problem with moving them in is that to combat the exta body roll you need to run harder springs making the car more unstable over bumps etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Could you still have the mounting point on the diff to the outer edge and just have the shocks on an angle?/ basically left the way they shocks are now, not inside the turret. I guess you still need to get your coils in there so would need to make / modify you turret to be angled? Not really ideal but maybe better than having them 2" closer to the center on the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHIFTBOY Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 As far as the 2 link vs 4 link...4 link all the way. A 2 link is like a trailing arm type set up and has little to no no articulation and your pinion changes as the rear end cycles. You mentioned the Satchell link, this is probably my most favourite 4 link as it keeps the roll centre nice and low and the top arms can be kept fairly short. Im building one at the mo for my latest bagged truck project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 If I was to bring my rear coilover setup further inboard what would happen? About 150mm total move. Anyone know bout this? Need to look at it to see if it'll work but if it does im keen to do this to fit about 10-11inch of awesome in my guards.. MTCW: Shove the stuff where it fits and then tune it with spring and dampner rates later on if you can be arsed. Everything on a modified road car's suspension is a compromise. You are not fitting huge tyres for optimum roadholding. You are fitting them because they look cool. *burp* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 this be a true story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Maybe Plus maybe want to be able to keep my power down. So maybe if I do move the springs in then I should seriously look at satchel 4link as it will reduce my roll centre which is what I want with coilovers in so far. Need car here to have a look but If I could make the diagonal links in a Satchel setup goto the old leaf spring mounts, and then run short trailing arms I think that'd be FTW. Cheers for pic, looks real good. Pete, yeap coilovers in rear. I know what I should do, just know I dont have the skills to do it... yet! Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Edit... there are no top links on it at the mo. Are the short bits coming forward just so you can bring the link out before it goes on an angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.