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What oil for a tired gearbox (pictures + 1mega death one)


escortwags

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Howdy yall

G/F's MK1 Cortina floor change gearbox is getting tired in that getting into 1st and fourth is a mishion sometimes no crunching just the bitch wont go in without some forceful and right rev action

Question is what oil would be best to put in her to sooth it out???

and what is the problem with it??...

gearbox never pops out of gear, doesnt whine, and doesnt crunch

seems to also have bad and good days :x

any help would be uber appreciated

Chur 8)

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Howdy yall

G/F's MK1 Cortina floor change gearbox is getting tired in that getting into 1st and fourth is a mishion sometimes no crunching just the bitch wont go in without some forceful and right rev action

)

Could be that there is no gasket between the box and bellhousing and that some crud has gotten in there and the rails are hitting the crud against the bellhousing.

The cure is to remove the bellhousing and shallow drill it where the rails protrude from the gearbox to give a touch more clearance.

Otherwise smack so thinner oil in it (it should be Hypoid 90 right now) and see if the syncro thingiees spin up bit quicker getting another year of so out of it before the box needs to come out

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so put some ol epx80-90 in her then or hypoid 90? the oil thats in it at the mo is just plain dirty gearbox oil (cant remember ratio but its just shitty shit from repco),

could this been 80% of the problem then?

Cheers for the help

EDIT: really cant be bothered taking the box off again just done the clutch

(yes im a lazy prick) just want to cruise again

it does f'all km's (under 3000kms a year) so im pretty keen on a quick fix :D

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My post was not clear, sorry.

Hypoid 90 was (IIRC) the factory recommendation and I am assuming it is what is in the box now.

You want to try something different.

Personally I use Redline Liteshock in my three rail Cortina gearboxes but you might not want to spend the money on that stuff. It works for me but my boxes get rebuilt every 500 miles or so.

EDIT: For some reason I was thinking your problem was in second and fourth which would point to the rails being the problem. As it is actually first and fourth gears that are giving you shit a binding rail is less likely to be the issue.

Tell her to try puting the box in second gear with her foot on the clutch before she selects first and lemme know if that helps.

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i see.. im pretty shure i dont have that oil in it at the mo.. :doubt:

my bad

so you have no oil recomendations then?

or should i stop being a lazy prick and take it off and inspect?

its not thaaaaaat bad just g/f gets annoyed sitting at

lights then go to take off and having to ram it in gear most the time

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e.

Tell her to try puting the box in second gear with her foot on the clutch before she selects first and lemme know if that helps.

cone - poked syncro

works with the morrie on 1st and reverse as tehy are straight cut - doing this lets you "borrow" the syncro from the other gears

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I suck at doing quotes

buttt....

Pretty much thats what she has to do to get it in gear..same with going down to fourth have to fiddle with 3rd and the revs...seems to gwt better after a long drive slighty which would maybe point to ive f**kd up and put in oil thats way to thick?

EDIT: dam you straight cut geared bastard haha

by dragging clutch do you mean its not fully engaging??? if so the answer is no just replaced it and is working mint adjusted to correct "play" in the pedal feals like neeeew

EDIT: ahhaa double edit, im shure ive read somewhere that first is dogged? or was that another old ford im thiking of?

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by dragging clutch do you mean its not fully dis-engaging???
Yhup. To check get car on level ground, start engine, select a gear with foot on clutch and no brakes. Have a glamourous assistanst push the car forwards and then backwards and observe the resistance to the pushing effort in both directions.

If she had that much trouble with fourth gear too then it probably isn't the clutch

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hmm i can think of one person id like to see be slowly run over haha

arggggghhh forgot to mention probably the most important piece to the puzzle?!?!

when cars off and you select threw the gears everything is real stiff and clunkish like something is rubbing along something else (hard to explain)..especialy when in neutral you basically have to force side to side movement (not like a normal box when you can basicaly do circles)

its frigin wierd????? :doubt::doubt::doubt:

EDIT: tired at work, not a cheap arse i want a quick fix dont care how much some magic oil will cost :D

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OK. I remember you changing the box in February last year but did not remember it whas a remote shifter that you fitted.

Remove the gear lever boot and take a look at the nylon block that is underneath the lever. Observe how much clearance there is and if the base of the lever is fouling the nylon block (which is the reverse stop). You can take the block off (one bolt) and fiddle around with the lever to see if it feels better when the engine isn't going. After that try a bit of lube on the pivot ball that is an inch or two above the bolt that connects the lever to the single linkage rod.

I also remember advising you to drill the bellhousing at the time :badgrin:

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hmm this mystery is getting deep

i was meaning the handbrake being a ute style...

oh shit im usless "been working on the mazda for to long" !!!!

its not a remote the shifters one of those daddy long legs ones..and from memory doesnt have a mylon ball on the bottom of the lever its just metal vs. metal is it meant to be like this?

sorry for being so frigin useless in this problem will be much better to deal with in the morning cheers uncle for your help :D

MEGA EDIT: ended up not going for the mk3 box as we found a place that sells new pressure plates (the old 3 prong ones) for $60 which i thought was fair :D so shes still all original which is mint but causes headaches especialy when i suck at explaining :doubt:

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