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is it worth putting twin webbers on a hillman hunter?


Beaver

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Dellortos stay in tune far longer than webers. My excel came standard with 45s, and they never needed balancing, and I did 100,000 miles in it. As for the original question... just the sound of a pair of side draughts will make it a done deal for me :D

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Dellortos stay in tune far longer than webers. My excel came standard with 45s, and they never needed balancing, and I did 100,000 miles in it. As for the original question... just the sound of a pair of side draughts will make it a done deal for me :D

+1 here too.

Does anyone know of an engine with the new style sidedrafts runnign on it (like the ones available from Trademe)? Just wanting some feed back as I do like the sound of adjusting the floats like a Holley.

Corey

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well...long story short, i probably wont be getting them anymore.

this is how the story goes.

the dude on tardeme had the carbs and the manifold listed seperatly, for 500 and 100 respectivly, and i said will you take 500 for both, and he said if they dont sell ill take 550. then he said he had double vavlve springs and i said ok im keen for thos if i buy the carbs. then he rang me and said you can have the carbs, mani, and a cast iron head with the double valve springs in it, all for 600. so i said yep keen. then i was like do you want me to click on the buy now on tha carbs and withdraw the mani or what. and he said nah ill put the reserve up so to a silly price so that no one bids on them, and it keeps trademe happy. sounds good to me. then this morning (ive been away for a few days) i check trademe, and the carbs had sold for 600. so his idea of a silly reserve was only 100 buks extra. i text him and was like whats going on, and he said the deal was only if they dont sell.....so he got me there, i just thought he would have put the reserve a bit higher but ah well, twas not ment to be......

im too poor anyway.....ive found a whole hunter for 200 buks so i might buy that instead haha

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  • 4 weeks later...
Note ....... I said ......."skimming the head for more compression".

There's nothing wrong with skimming a head to make it flat.

To make any extra compression that's worthwhile, say bringing it up from maybe 8.5 to 9, or 9 to 9.5 involves taking a LOT off the head.

Personally I've had 80 thou taken off iron heads and had ongoing problems which took me a while to figure out.

All the strength in the head is in the deck, that's what supports the roof of the combustion chamber....... there's only a water jacket above it

When the deck gets too thin the roof lifts slightly when the plug fires, unsealing the gasket.

The gasket then reseals.

Then lifts again next time the plug fires.

But only under full load

It's not very obvious on a N/A motor but the same thing will happen to ANY turbo motor when you use too much boost. Or on a N/A motor that was never intended for a turbo and had one added afterwards.

The symptoms are blown (popped) radiator and heater hoses

cracked top radiator tank

leaking heater

Leaking waterpump

General overheating

In a worst case situation you'll blow a hose clean off the motor........ that's after you've fixed all of the above.

Modern Japper heads are better as the plug is in the centre and gives support but they will still fail too...... even stock.

You must have seen cars at the drags getting 3/4 down the track then pop.... big cloud of steam.... hose blew off...... why??

The Hunter was one of the first to have an alloy head... they had both.

The alloy heads were terrible for blowing gaskets.... I've had mates who've owned them. Even after skimming, the alloy heads would still blow gaskets....... of course each time they were skimmed the next gasket would blow a bit easier than the last one....... they got worse and worse.

Not many left any more...... I wonder why?

Steve

I've milled the hunter alloy head down so far before. It starts chewing into the side cover mounting area with no problems of head gasket blowing.

The 1725 alloy head is very bad at stepping on the deck surface. As it's cooling design is a bit slap dash and has uneven operating temps across the deck. A non-circular fire ring in the head gasket also makes the fire ring very weak. Blowing into the kidney shaped water jacket is nearly always the course of head gasket failure.

One easy way around this problem. If you have some spare motors lying around, just nick all the head studs, nuts and woshers out of them and throw away all the stretch head bolts. you may need 4x motors to collect these all up, as most 1725's only have 2 or 3, and generly only put in where a heater hose clamp is required. you will also note these studs will need to be trimmed down to fit under the rocker gear assembly. ( these studs are very hard and you will have a good work out cutting five of them by hacksaw ) Dont use a grinder or anything that may heat the stud when cutting it as it will retemper the steel and lose it's high tensile properties.

I've also in the past put a lock nut on top of all the studs to prevent the head nut from creeping undone. If my memory serves me well, most "ae500" head gaskets on the market do need to be retorqed after a short run in time. so waiting till after this time to put a lock nut on would make sense.

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Dellortos stay in tune far longer than webers. My excel came standard with 45s, and they never needed balancing, and I did 100,000 miles in it. As for the original question... just the sound of a pair of side draughts will make it a done deal for me :D

In the past i've had all types of twin carbs go out of sink. And nomaly is'nt a fault in the carbs them self. Something has to be worping or shifting. In the dcoe webber and dhla delloroto with gravity working on it even when at rest seem to be the biggest problem. The rubber gaskets behind them tend to compress and deform. But the two gaskets never deform at the same rate. regardless how even you do the mountings up.

The heavier and deeper the aircleaners you mount off these carbs will also increase the rate these rubber gaskets deform.

If you look at the last of the factory hillman hunter twin dcoe setup it has all the answers. There is a brace off the block to the trumpet face, taking away some of the leaverage action when the motor is shacking around. also getting rid of those thick rubber gaskets and putting a thin gasket in it's place to prevent gasket deformation.

Some people get a bit upset about the idea not using those thick rubber gaskets. As they are intended to prevent fuel shuffel in the fuel bowl. and I agree in a single carb setup they are the best thing. But seem to make more problems than fixes in twin carbs.

Also a brace across the trumpet face of the two carbs is a good way of stopping them twisting in differnt directions.

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Alfa Romeo used either Weber or Dellorto twin carbies on their boxer engines, 36mm on the

1490cc engine and 40mm on the 1712cc.

So 40s should logically be fine for a standard Hunter engine.

Fuel economy from my two 33s is almost never worse than 10l/100km. It won't win any awards but it's not guzzling gas to a significant extent.

I've had cars with hilariously out of tune carbs, but when I get them put right they stay that way for a good while. Not just a month, maybe a year or so - something else always interferes with them. (I've had dirt get stuck in jets causing missing on idle or light throttle, I've had an accelerator pump jet unscrew and fall out, and I've made things worse myself on a few occasions. Most recently I removed emulsion tubes from my grey 33's Webers to blow them out with compressed air, but I must have dislodged more muck and now there's occasional backfiring even when I'm on the throttle. =| ) (Edit: And now the car runs on three cylinders half the time.)

Murray from Weber Specialties said he liked the Alfa boxer engine setup because the linkage between the carbs was substantial and well made, not like Triumphs etc which use "knitting needles". :wink:

CARBS.JPG

Conclusion is twin carbs are not the devil, but are something to have even just for the cool factor. 8)

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Yes i've had a far share of stuffups with carbs setups, ending in motor rebuilds

One of the worst was setting up a pair of twin stombergs and allowed the throttle to over travel.

The setup had a pore design were the slave carb has the throttle stopper on it. This ended up twisting the brass spindle shaft and braking it. The weekest point is were the butterfly screw goes threw and released that lovely little thing down into the motor. Damaged the valve and valve seat then mannaged to borrow it's way down the side of the piston and down into the sump. Leaving the bore scratched and smashed rings.

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