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random fuel problem....


eke_zetec_RWD

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ok have done about 500km on newy dyno tuned motor in escort. was all going mint untill....

i was just cruising to palmy to get chineese takeaways for dinna and then pow, went lean as fuck.

managed to nana it there. got food. came back to car and had flat tyre! luck gull was close.

nannad to pump and put air in bottom of tyre. nannad it home.

busted out laptop and only way i got it to run ok was to turn master from 6 to 12! but obvisously thats not the solution.

so im gessing fuel pump or something? the fuel pressure at 100kpa is same as it used to be. 43ish psi.

if the pump is shaged can it still read mint pressure but loose flow?

the thing is the pressure was normal at idol but it still wudnt idol with master on 6, only12.

i wud of thought if pressure was still ok then the fuel injected would still be the same.

setting in the g3 are untouched since the tune apart from master after it went lean. . . .

go

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100kpa is 14.5psi but i dont understand your wording

maybe pump has slowed down so it supplies reasonable pressure at idle but gets overwhelmed when under load? i dont really know how fuel pumps work, what is their failure mode?

yea 100kpa is astomphere pressure. yea but its lean as fuck even when not under load aswell. im stumped.

mite try new pump and filter and check lines for blockages.

atm it goes

tank filter pump rail regulator tank again

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Master that's the base required fuel is it? If increasing it helps id say its an injector or fuel pump/pressure issue. What impedance injectors are they if they are low has everything been setup to controll them properly? If not it can burn the injectors or their driver circuit out but that would usually get worse and worse not just bam and its stuffed.

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AIUI you need about 50psi ( which is about 3 bar, or 300kPa ) to run an injection system. If you're still measuring that on your system, could it be that what you're seeing is the max pressure on the pump before the relief valve opens, and there's a constriction somewhere in the piping - probably before the fuel rail as it'd probably go rich if it was after it.

Can you check plenty of fuel is being returned, or the fuel pressure at the return to tank/swirl pot is still good? Filter??

( once had a similar but totally unrelated problem with my RS2000. New engine in and connected the fuel inlet/return to the carb the wrong way round. The graduated hole in the return allowed just enough fuel to idle, but stalled otherwise. Both connectors are marked with an arrow pointing the same way ).

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Probably got a corrupted database after being spiked.

Steve

so what save current file and reload into ecu after reset?

no, because if thats the problem the current map will already be corrupt.

thats why I copied my tune to my PC before I started rewiring my car, just incase something bad happened :doubt:

if you don't have a copy saved on your PC and the ecu map is corrupt the only way to fix it is a retune. but in saying that, when I had mine tuned the guy saved the map to his PC at various stages. not sure if he keeps them for future reference or anything, but might be worth checking if your tuner still has it on file.

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Probably got a corrupted database after being spiked.

Steve

so what save current file and reload into ecu after reset?

no, because if thats the problem the current map will already be corrupt.

thats why I copied my tune to my PC before I started rewiring my car, just incase something bad happened :doubt:

if you don't have a copy saved on your PC and the ecu map is corrupt the only way to fix it is a retune. but in saying that, when I had mine tuned the guy saved the map to his PC at various stages. not sure if he keeps them for future reference or anything, but might be worth checking if your tuner still has it on file.

thats what i mean reload the map as of end of dyno tune. even if all the numbers are the same?

cant see what taking battery off will do. . . . when you turn key off it does the same thing lol!!! plus links have like a 20 year memory with no power.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with SHOLDOWA on this on where he states check the return side of the fuel.

Do it like this:

Remove the return fuel line and fit a length of hose to the fuel rail long enough to reach a calibrated container(oil dippers are good, so are the missus cooking bowls... but they don't like petrol lol).

Start engine and run for a period of 1 minute then check to see how much fuel has come out also recording the fuel pressure (remember that a restriction will alter the pressure and if the restriction is enough will kill the pressure, shit in the tank can be the worst).

Fuel amount should be 1.75-2.5 litres this way.

See what you have and it will give you a base to work from so you don't have to go around in circles.

Corey.

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