kpr Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 anyone here made an adjustable 4 link setup? wanting to make some adjustable arms for the kp. mostly wanting to know what tube sizes and materials etc. to use. need to get it all legit as it'll be going in for a cert soon. there isnt much on the cert site to say what is required. will maybe rose joint one end and leave the other how it is at the moment, with the urethane bushes. to stop it from being so harsh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Revhead Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 talk to the ppl doing the cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Revhead Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 an idea for the arms.... ee100 corolla rear toe link long arm with bushed ends has threaded section in the middle for adjustment if its mainly a road car id look at that cheaper, and wont wear as fast or be as harsh as rod ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 if you tell me the length you want i can make rally duty ( these will never break ) arms with left and right hand threaded rose joints for you. around 120 per arm including rose joints..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 all good, some questions for ya: what size id tube (mild steel?) and rose joints do you use? do you tap a thread down the tube for the rose joints? how much thread on the rose joints you use? have seen a kp with cracked floor when using rose joints both ends. altho it would had have over double the power, of what mines making. thats another reason i want to rose joint only one end. keep a bit of the flex there. will loose some adjustability and be more of a pain to adjust thats all. would rather make them myself to keep cost down. but yeh how much for just one rose jointed end and nothing on the other? i can trim them to length and tig the ends of the current arms onto them revhead: yeh i have the general idea how they need to be made. talked to the cert guy about something similar awhile back. but yeh guess i maybe able to beat some more info out of him. he mocks me about having 2 "starlets" everytime i ring him tho interesting idea about the corrolla links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burntrubber Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 20 NB mild steel pipe is all good heaps of older cars have it standard for there arms. You could just welds a nut to the tube best would be to cut a thread into the tube. You will need get a pipe with the right id to match the thread you want to cut or at least smaller so you can bore it bigger if you need to. Generally rose joints have the same size eye as they do thread (just what I've been told) so I'd go 16mm. The tube you would need for that if you were to cut the thread into it has an OD of about 26mm and an ID of 14mm I was going to use this stuff for myself but I am going to just weld nuts on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 thats one thing the cert guy said. threads are spose to be taped down the tubes. cant just weld a nut on. i made some traction bars for my fwd starlet awhile back and welded nuts onto the tubes. they failed the cert. i just took them off as couldnt be assed remaking them at the time. so yeh maybe worth checking up on before you do it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burntrubber Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Really guy I spoke to said it was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 i use 18mm joints and then use a bush in the eye to match what eva bolt size your using - recomend 12mm. the hollow bar i use i stress is heavy duty like 5mm wall and then bore and tap 18mm. . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Revhead Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 as with wof, cert leaves room for the persons opinion. ill be four linking my starlet, but ill have the housings beefed up by the roll cage so im not expecting any cracking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Really guy I spoke to said it was fine. i wouldnt consider the width of a nut sufficent compaired to a cut thread up a bar. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Revhead Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 yep. which is why you dont however connecting the housing the suspension bolts to, to the cage is fine. basiclly the bar that will run sideways in the main hoop near the floor will butt up to the 4 links housings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 Really guy I spoke to said it was fine. cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 i use 18mm joints and then use a bush in the eye to match what eva bolt size your using - recomend 12mm. the hollow bar i use i stress is heavy duty like 5mm wall and then bore and tap 18mm. . . . . sheesh, yeh that is heavy duty. bit of an overkill for a kp with only a n/a 4age trying to rip the diff out. maybe a thinner wall tube with an insert in the end would be the go. keep the weight down a bit. machining bushes and stuff is no problem as i have acess to a lathe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 yea that wud be tho go, use chromolly tube and weld up the end a threaded boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burntrubber Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Really guy I spoke to said it was fine. cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard? Shane is quite the opposite if you ask me. He signs off all our stuff that requires engineers approval for the company I work for. Also a few off my friends have used him. i wouldnt consider the width of a nut sufficent compaired to a cut thread up a bar. . . Use connecting nuts their 50mm long nearly 3 times a standard 16mm nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 Really guy I spoke to said it was fine. cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard? I didn't think there was antone in keri who did certs. Who does em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 paul white does them in kerikeri, travels to whangarei regularly too. look on the lvvta site for his number. Burntrubber: yeh ive never talked to the guy myself. just what quite a few people have told me. thats why i went to the kerikeri guy. ah connecting nuts, that explains it. i thought you were talking about a standard nut. i still like the idea of machining an insert, to fit inside the tube better tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burntrubber Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I have to correct myself here I rang Shaine to make sure and he told me you cant use them they have to internally threaded the arms. Its ok for some things like panard rods etc but not link arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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