kpr's kp60

[kpr]

Its actually made it off the dyno and onto the road.  amazing

I stole @Roman clutch sensor idea.   spans 0-5v over clutch range.  so can pick engagement point in ecu software, rather than mucking around trying trying to adjust a switch to right spot.

So yeah set up launch control.  On my shitty old concrete tyres i use on the dyno,would only take 2200rpm launch. then would cut loose again a 5k. 
I set up an ignition retard map, based on time after the lauch control switched off, so will pull timing and come on power less aggressive in 1st gear. then back to full timing by the time hit 2nd, which worked ok but pretty weak sauce acceleration>

Found some slightly softer springs and  did some shock adjustments which helped a little bit. but still ended it tyre fire

Before swapping to some slightly better condition 195/45 14's.    thought would try some other junk got hanging around

Enter the 185/55 15  linglings

 

first attempt = tyre fire.   but after zinging the crust off them and running them  at 15psi.   got it to hook up at 3800rpm and able to get rid of the timing retard map.    aint no drag car but seems to take off fairly decent for what it is

 

 

 

[kpr]

Done a few more tweaks and got a touch more out of it.   
fixed some stuff in the fuel system that was causing a few afr spikes.
played with the injector timing, which seemed to give some small gains here and there, mostly noticeable right up top 9500+    Pretty much lined up with when afr richest = best.  
I had been running fixed 400 end of injection which worked pretty good for fixed number.   heading towards 300 would result in massive loss in bottom end. but it did like a little less than 400 down there. 
right up top it liked over 400. 
So yeah running this engine with the big 980cc injectors is actually a benefit.  Seems to be a touch of power in it. Even if there wasn't/isn't,  would be wasting fuel, going to a smaller injector.  since the injector would be open for so long, part of it wouldn't be burnt

Bottom line is what it likes at wide open, ignore the rest of map haven't fill it out properly yet.

Injector timing made some of the changes in fuel map slightly less aggressive, but yeah big cam itb tune always going to be all over the shop
contrary to popular belief, something like this is harder to tune than a turbo engine making way more power.

 

gains from last time in red

 

 

the atlantic engine in  dark green.   I should probably try the big headers at some stage. think it will be really close to the atlantic curve. at least lose the power below 6k haha

[kpr]

So going back a few pages, I found what looks to be the dyno graph, just before last time took it to the drags

 

so yeah should do stuff, maybe

 

[kpr]

little street pull/ sound check at start of this vid:

 

[kpr]

Managed a new pb yesterday, at least in na spec anyway    13.25 @ 105mph

done a bunch of 13.6's.  started at 3800rpm launch.   kept putting it up as was bogging off the line. much different than with the  195/45 r14's,  which would basically have to drive it off the line, but since the gearing was so low would pick up rpm fast enough to get an ok 60ft.    with the 185/55r15's  china tyres was super lazy, but surprising amount of grip.  once got launch up to 5000rpm , 60ft started to drop. done a 13.4.  next and last run put it up to 5500rpm. spun a little, went 13.25.  with still pretty rubbish 2.10 60ft.   

13.1 probably would have been doable with few more runs,  but pretty happy with 13.2 .   Should easily do a 12  with better tyres.  but little clutch and t50 would be in a world of hurt.

[kpr]

Ol mate @Dudley not quite gettin them shots on the camera

 

 

 

 

[Dudley]

1 hour ago, kpr said:

Ol mate @Dudley not quite gettin them shots on the camera

 

 

 

 

Close enough though shaggy

[kpr]

VVTi   version 3.0  up and running, on good engine.    this time using stock pulley sizes

Got issues  with way too much travel  on the 304deg cam though.   its setup so max advance is just before piston to valve contact. Which isn't far off where i normally run this cam fixed.  max retard is whatever the pulley travel is back the other way
max retard is the pulley in "relaxed" position,  so its at max retard when cranking.     the ecu is reporting 69degrees travel, which is lots.   since the cam is so big, it means the intake valves are open waaay into the compression stroke.
No drama once engine is running, as can advance the cam.  getting it running is the problem, its like trying start an engine with about 3:1 compression.
I'll try a few more things in the tune. But best solution is going to be limiting to the pulley travel.    30-40degrees will be plenty enough,  and should hopefully start a whole lot easier. 

Early days, but otherwise every thing seems good.  no leaks and  advances and retards like it should.  

 

[kpr]

Managed to get it to start ok without putting a limiter in pulley.  had to crack the throttles open quite a bit to let more air in. and messed with tune and cold start settings alot
Only makes 70psi on compression tester when cranking. usually well over 250psi.  can feel it blowing air back the throttles on compression stroke!   so ive basically done the opposite of @Roman and turned my 4age into a prius engine.   It actually idles best at full  retard. like it has some weak little cams.
The vvti is pretty slow it react.  but 99% sure its just the oil feed line. i had to come off the oil pressure sensor hole. just used an an4 line had hanging around.   will change to an6 see if fixes.
Going to try get a little more advance out of it, piston to valve already pretty tight but, i'll gamble bending some valves for a little more, as it still gaining midrange with pulley maxed out. will also help with the prius engine issue.

Good news is,  its making good power on smaller cams.   vvti setup is using 304/300 cams.  Below is vs the 318/304 was running at os drags

ignore the bump at end.. dyno being a diddle

 

 

[kpr]

so managed to get a little more advance out of it.    another 5kw  on the bottom end.   power curve looking pretty sweet now. 

Rpm scale slightly off on this one. forgot change it when adding the stockish engine run (pink) 

Vs the 318/304 hvc cams,   filled in the holes nicely.   should drive heaps better.   really nothing in it top end wise.  Its even better than it looks on paper, since runs way nicer with the vvti and smaller cams

[kpr]

tried shortening the  intake 30mm  as the vvti turd seemed to like it.     This thing said no.   red is normal intake length  rest are 30mm shorter with various vvti settings.  nothing would pull the dip out and didnt make anymore peak

 

tried air filter on/ off  zero change in power

Shut the bonnet,  =  2kw  more.  same thing the turd engine did.  

 

 

 

Along with doing a few more tweaks to the vvti map and tune. managed to fill the dip before 8k.     compared to  last time:

curve looks super nice for something with 300deg cams

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

I tried the outboard injection again .  probably easiest to watch the video than me trying to explain it.   but the gist of it,  seems like theirs a tiny bit in it cooling or mixture wise. maybe 1-2kw    but it seems like to me, that it moves the tuned intake length around a bit.  shorter  runner acts more like a longer one.    It did make 167kw though. which i think is the new record 

 

[Roman]

Very interesting, I'd have thought it would act like a shorter runner if anything - If you were making the air column more dense from the fuel then it you'd imagine that the speed of sound would go up not down. 

(like how its faster underwater than in air) 

Maybe its the extra inertia of the fuel that makes it behave like a longer runner rather than the speed of sound stuff. 
 

[kpr]

so I tried the big headers i made ages ago, now engine is making more power.

kinda same deal as last time.  more up top, and a decent hit in bottom end

 

 

so did some testing with some new exhaust setups after headers.   then built something that would actually fit on the car

 

made the below abortion,  to replace the existing abortion

 

for reference inlet  and the outlet after the reso/muffler is 3"  tube.

 

Black is the big headers with the megaphone pipe.  blue is small headers with the old pipe as in above graph.     bit wiggly under 4k.  but aint care about that.   pretty good gains through midrange.  has picked up the bottom end to match the what the old setup did.   the megaphone pipe makes it fall over a bit sooner,  but over all better.    some fine tuning of the angle would likely help

 

Im running a different collector on the big headers now.  but yeh  otherwise as below,

 

[kpr]

Ok,  so the green line is the last time i tried the big headers.  which happens to be the setup i ran a 13.5 1/4 on.    And i thought the 146kw was about the most i was going to get out of it back then.   not make over that number across a 3000rpm window

 

 

Red is the atlantic  car

 

 

[kpr]

So,  i tried a whole bunch of different angle reverse cones,  on my test pipe. the part that goes back down smaller to the muffler

18,  23  and 33   degrees included angle

basically didnt do anything 

orange full exhaust. all others test pipe

So yeah  the orange run with full exhaust.  its magically fixed itself and doesn't drop off up top anymore.    not sure why, the connection to the big headers is pretty janky atm, so possible exhaust leak.  or maybe the way it was on dyno wasnt right.    was making 169kw uncorrected,  so beat the crap out of it to get oil temps up till it cracked 170kw

Atlantic engine = red
My junker = blue

The vvti is helping out here quite a bit. its amazing/cheating

 

 

 

[kpr]

Tried  some  different angle  megaphones.      nothing really happened up top.  but  below 5500rpm  some various wigglyness happened

 

5 degree  - blue
6 degree  - red
9.5 degree - green
straight   - pink
full exhaust - black

 

full exhaust seemed to be down a touch up top on the rest.    the stand out was the 5 degree. not because it made any more power.  but  because it was the nicest curve in low revs. 

 

 

The flat megaphone i made on full exhaust sounds terrible when cruising.  kinda expected it to do this, as have had the same problem before.  seems to be an issue with the pipe not being able to hold its shape like a round pipe would.   Also it was made to the equivalent of 7 degree round megaphone, going by inlet and outlet area.  no idea if this would be the right way to do it, or if there is any way it would act the same as a round pipe.

Have built a new one that should be 5 degree equivalent.   Added a divider straight down the middle, to stop it flexing.  unsure if will have any effect on the wizardry

Yep the rest of the exhaust still has all the metals.  stainless,  mild and aluminum

seems to have stopped making the horrible noise on a short test drive.  haven't dyno'd it yet.  will be happy if acts similar to the 5 degree in blue graph.

The headers  currently have this diverging cone setup on them pre the above stuff.  probably should have be testing from the choke point back. 
but have a good results with this setup in the past, seems to get you most of the way there when combo'd with the right muffler. 
Also over crawling under the car.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

Seems i haven't updated this since forever.  

Before the 2024 os drags i swapped in a long rod bottom end.   7a block 4a crank.  custom china rods.  
It was down on power a good 5kw.   Bottom end is a bit lower compression, same pistons,  but cut the valve cutouts a little deeper.  plus running a heavier damper/crank pulley.  
was also stuck with 95 fuel.   Its not knock limited on 95  but it used to make a couple more numbers on gull e10.   from memory it was low 160kw

After borrowing roman Dave's tyres,  still managed to smash previous  13.2 @ 105mph pb   with a 12.7 @ 106mph

So yeah  the gains in power between drag days were essentially  lost  with the bottom end and fuel change. as only 1 mph faster trap speed, 

After drag day, swapped in the big 318deg kelford intake cam  in place of the 304.  which actually worked quite well. as i was able to use the extra piston to valve clearance,
to run a bit more advance in the midrange  to hold it pretty similar to what it was and gain a bit out the top.    Still down on power compared to the old bottom end but getting closer. 

 

 

Basically just stayed like that  for some time.  Until brought a toda 308 deg cam, to do a bunch of testing with. 

After  trying lots of different combo's,  inc full ham 320deg toda intake and 308 exhaust.   Ended up finding a combo that made a touch more power 

Blue new cam combo, red old.    Ive been testing this car in 3rd gear hence the lower power reading.  as the dyno has a mare at the speed it does in 4th gear, im running it out to 10100rpm now. 

Was also a very slight intake length change on the blue run.  

 

run in 4th.  ignore the spike at the end,  it doesn't peak to 9700 ish on 3rd gear runs. so the 4th gear run should be just over 170kw, if dyno didnt spaz out up there.  
would be interesting to see what the old bottom end would have done on this setup.   but current should be less likely to fly to bits 

 

now its running the toda 308 intake cam rather than the 318 kelford and the same exhaust cam.   was junk everywhere other than top end going any bigger on exhaust side.  

sooo smaller intake cam and more peak power? 

Yeah that advertised number doesn't mean much.   308 left  318 right 

318 kelford left  320 toda right.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

kinda relevant to this car.    

I brought a new machine,  so sadly you will probably be seeing less illegal lathe moves.   possibly some illegal mill moves instead  

Kinda seemed possible to make a high port head, like i done on the truneo without all the welding.  as that was a shit show. 
end game was to do it to the big valve head on the starlet.   But still too many unknowns and having no idea how to use the machine, 
So I found another victim.     Bigport head 

big holes

bigger holes,  smallport head would have been better to start with.  but looks like i can make a bigport head work, which is good
since no one wants them.   and yeah bigport is fake news once get this far down the port.   I have no idea what i'm going to 
do with this head. but want to get it 100% done and probably test on an engine, before cutting up the big valve head. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

 

pretty much going to plan so far.  

machined these on the lathe 

then zing'd  angle on them, same as head.  need as much real estate here as possible, as port entry will be near top of the plates.   hence the angle cuts