Popular Post kpr Posted December 29, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 29, 2014 Still nothing happening here. dug it out of the shed again and took it to another drift day a week or so ago. Brother got some pictures Got bored and drove with my mind for a bit It had another oil explosion. too much high rpm and it starts to throw oil out the breather and fill the catch can. which is usually ok, if i make sure the catch can is empty at the start of the day. but must have been extra aggressive on the rpm this time. once it fills right up, its all bad as it cant breath. it turns into a syphon and oils the engine bay. It has an oversized turbo oil return in the sump, from when the bottom end was in the ae85. so im thinking i will make a setup that drains back to the sump. 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 14, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 14, 2015 Been doing some stuff to try fix the oil ending up on ground issue. Best option would be adding another external oil drain or 2 from low in the head somehwere. so oil drains to sump faster, before getting to catch can. or possibly restricting down the oil feed to head. But cbf removing the head. There was already a spare oversized turbo oil return to sump with a blanking plate on it. so made use of it. Again cbf making a whole new catch can, plus seems i welded in some mesh stuff to this one, bonus. got all flash welding on 16an fittings, 1.5" breather hole since bigger is better and relocated to exhaust side. That choice yellow hose, that i left on to annoy everyone is gone Bottom hose is a little close to extractors, might put a heat sheld in there somewhere. drain is above the oil line, so should work as intended put one of these guys on as well. 16 row mocal 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 15, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 15, 2015 Works so far. Lucky using thermostat sandwich plate, as think it would over cool the oil on road. even after driving for 20mins then dorting up some hills, only first 50mm of cooler is warm. rest stone cold. also threw in some better thinner oil this time to attempt to free up some power. actually made heat shield next job is to make this out of something that isn't beer boxes. stu said ali would be a dort amplifier. sounds good to me. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 26, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 26, 2015 So, this has been sitting in the shed since os trackday. Speaking of which, other than all the good cunts. wasn't up there with the best trackdays ive done, hampton seems to hate me. firstly with some irregular bodily functions that had me gapping to the nearest facilities more than once. Then the old 4age doing the same chucking the oil out the breather due to to many rpm's. tyre choice was some ok t1r's up front and old hard worn out t1r's on the rear, with the previously mentioned oil from the front making it all the way back there too! (sorry motorbike guys) which made for some hectic oversteer and accidental drift runs. i also did a hopeless job of bleeding the rear brakes so they didnt really do anything. fronts were fried. did mange to get some good hooning in there though. ah well maybe next time! Other than that i sold out and got a mate (thanks!) to cnc machine me some longer trumpets, which i've been testing today white ones are the ones i made ages ago. which have been chopped up a bit. as they were for silvertop throttles. about 70mm long new ones are about 110mm They shifted the power around a bit and filled in a few holes. have the before and after map if any techo people are interested. up to 10% difference in fueling in places. Sadly the 4 cylinder harmonics have spoiled the fun again. at high rpm the whole manifold vibrates enough to pop the throttle linkage off.. unsure if its fixable yet, may have to go back to the old setup. unsure if its the extra weight and/or the material thats causing it . plastic ones had no drama. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted November 22, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 22, 2015 Tried a few things with the aluminum trumpets. couldn't stop them ringing and went back to the short plastic ones. until some how mate agreed to machine some more, this time from acetal. same stuff as the original white ones. problem solved! seems mr toyota new what was up using plastic trumpets machine ate the side off no3. but it works for now till sort a replacement Added another 10mm length over the ali ones to attempt to fill some holes. but was a bit of a step backwards tbh, as had to trim a bit more fuel out up top and didn't really gain much anywhere else. over all they are still a bit better than the short runners. so will stick with them. Poor attempt at a roman graph, mostly to show how much just changing runner lengths effects the tune & power delivery. Its the 100% row of the short runner fuel map overlayed with long runners . to give an idea of scale, the gap between the lines at 7500rpm is about 6% fuel. im also running the whole map a bit leaner on the long trumpets. so the long runners are a bit better than it looks 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted November 28, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 28, 2015 Few weeks ago pulled the engine apart to just put this in: engine hasn't seized yet so must be legit Almost a year later i actually made the air duct thing, from ali rather than beer boxes . Had to make it 3 parts to get it all in there. bottom bolts on trumpets are a bit of a diddle to get to. Done. complete with bmw boot seal. Seems to be working good. Even looks to be getting a touch of positive pressure at speed, maybe a kpa. which is piss all but better than nothing. Chucked a hose down by the filter from the link's map sensor, since its not being used. to measure pressure vs the baro sensor in the link. need to figure out its possible to get more resolution out of the map sensor as it 1kpa increments. vs the baro 0.1 increments. / probably just drive it 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 7, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 7, 2016 Screw you guys i'm going to the moon 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 made some slip joints today weak update so heres a skid 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 6, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 6, 2016 Got around to doing some more on the new extractors. similar design to original's but cant do a direct copy due to pipe diameter 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 12, 2016 Finally have 4 pipes heading in the right direction. Has been tricky getting all runners the same length, while making them aesthetically pleasing and within the same constraints, so can bolt on swap back to the old extractors if need be. 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 27, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 27, 2016 Fail ^ afr graph; pink line is the 44.5mm extractors, they match the old 38mm's from 6000rpm onwards. but are junk below 5000rpm, at part throttle and wide open. im not sure what is happening down low, lack of velocity or maybe getting a bit of reversion? but rules out that the 38mm tube is any kind of restriction. The fuel ratio is a bit junk in general. long story, but had to do a quick temp fix on cambelt, with an old belt. as some stones managed to get in there and destroy my poser toda belt. Im pretty sure the cam timing is off. as its gone lean through the midrange. but with that fuck up looks like it may have gained some more midrange power. as requries about 5% more fuel between 4500 & 6500 to get it back to where it was. when i throw the new belt on will see whats going on, and maybe finish dialing in the cam timing, that i was spose to do 2 years ago... looks like i got to 10degrees advance on the inlet and 10degrees retard on exhaust, over kelfords recommended. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 9, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 9, 2016 Took them off the wall for a picture, then hung them back up. This flywheel showed up after 6 months.. clutch and fly has been balance ready to go on. Had to go to the smaller ae86 200mm setup to get the "ultra light flywheel" not sure how well this clutch will handle the abuse, will find out the hard way i guess. but the bonus is the clutch is also lighter. current is blacktop flywheel - around 5.9kg. toda flywheel is 3.7kg 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted July 2, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2016 Have been trying a few more things with this engine. with more fairly disappointing results. / kinda boring update Firstly i brought some bigger cams, since going from the stock cams to kelford 193-b was quite a big improvement. have gone next step bigger with 193-c cams I initially installed them to the factory marks. which resulted in big loss in power everywhere. except the last 500rpm or so. ended up with the exhaust retarded 10degrees and the inlet advanced 20degrees. Which gained back most of the losses. but still slightly less power everywhere except right up top, over the smaller cams. Then I started to pull some of the car apart so could dial wheel the cams, to see if they were ground slightly off or anything. as was initially too lazy to do this. Got a bit carried away and pulled the head off and did some more port work, both on inlet and exhaust side. got my china on a copied some pictures of Hasselgren's work, who built atlantic 4age's back in the day. Back together with the cams dialed as they were, maybe some minor gains from the port work. nothing really measurable but definitely not a loss. But it turns out when i dial wheeled the cams, the inlet was way off. 20degrees retarded, which is 1 whole tooth on the cam wheel. Kelfords had managed to grind the cam 20 degrees off. So the whole time i thought it was running 20degrees advance, it was actually dialed to their recommended settings. No big drama, skipped the cambelt a tooth to regain the adjustment on the camgears. Dialed in 10degrees advance on the inlet. along with the 10retard on the exhaust cam. which just happens to be the same settings i was running the old 193-b cams at. After all that, some not bad gains through the midrange. but almost nothing up top over the smaller cams. something its restricting it making anymore peak power. ive pretty much tried everything bolt-on wise, so pointing the finger at head flow, larger valves maybe required to go any further Pink lines are old cams. Can see the rpm plot, the green (new cam) line starts to pull away slightly. plus its using more injector d/c for same fuel ratio. Indicates some gains. This is the top row of fuel map. bottom grey-ish line is old cams. top grey one is new cams. green line is different length trumpets on new cams. ignore anything below 4000rpm. Can see how gains are very minimal up top. Tbh is going the best it ever has. but not giving up just yet.. Oh and the light toda flywheel is awesome. revs so fast in lower gear now 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted August 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 12, 2016 lets see what this does 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Another fail, almost zero change. Thats with 1.5mm oversized inlet valves and 2mm oversized exhaust. Its pulling 2-3kpa manifold vacuum past 6000rpm. unsure how much effect on power it has, but running out of ideas fast. blue line is atmo (bap), purple is manifold press (map). the map only has 1kpa resolution and is just plugged into one of the stock vac ports on itbs, hence is bit all over the show. but clearly on downward trend. ignore messy afr was too lazy to correct it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Done some more testing. Made some restictor plates between the trumpets and throttle bodies. After stealing some area calculations off Roman Daves build thread. The plates work out to be around the same area as a silvertop 43mm throttle body, taking into account the throttle plate. Interestingly the vacuum numbers haven't changed enough to measure with the lack of resolution. But the AFR has gone rich from the point it starts to pull some vac. Around 5% fuel needs to be removed to get it to match the 45mm throttles. So maybe only a tiny amount of vac has a big effect. Either that or the restriction plates are just messing up the flow rather than restricting it. It makes mountains of torque at 5500rpm when its running close to atmo pressure, then falls away as it gets a few kpa vac. Pity it aint so easy to make the throttles bigger As usual; pinky baseline run 45mm throttle. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 47mm throttles = still no change. I couldn't make them with my angle grinder. so got mate with some fancy machines to do it.. Open to suggestions, because im 100% out of ideas now.. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 10, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 10, 2016 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2016 Ok, screw metal and plastic. Brother made me some wooden spacers, best mod yet. I just threw on 51mm worth of spacers, as had bolts that long hanging about.. Woodn't run it run it this lean at wot usually. but so used to it doing nothing wasn't watching afr in real time. same deal as usual pink line base run. huge change in afr with the spacers. Whats even better is it better almost everywhere. Ignore map signal as it wasn't connected i need to do another base run without the spacers and minus the air filter to confirm it isnt a restiction. (i hadn't tired it minus air filter with big valve head, but suspect there will be no change) 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 2, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 2, 2016 Tried the big extractors again. As expected. same deal as last time. killed power below 6000rpm. I then shortened the runners about 75mm. Not alot happened, afr difference indicated possibly some minor gains at high rpm. Then chopped them up some more, to see if stepped design will bring back some power below 6000rpm. The next size down in stainless is 38.1 od. which doesn't fit nicely inside 44.5 od. so pressed a slow taper into the tube until was correct fit. no idea what effect that will have. I managed to mess up the angle of the outlet a bit, need to do a bit more work to get the exhaust to match. so yet to do a test run. Pretty much just want them to match the other ones power wise, so can run with them, since they look hectic as 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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