kpr Posted May 10, 2012 Author Posted May 10, 2012 this thing goes again. still alot of bits and pieces to sort out and tidy up. but it runs and drives. not 100% happy with the brakes. thinking im going to try a smaller bore master cylinder on the rear circuit. brakes work ok as they are, but ive had to set the balance bar to bias front heaps. and need to get on the roids to use the brakes up to 100% as pedal is super hard. camera broken so phone pics ive hid most of the wiring. redone all the water system (yeh not that ugly top pipe yet) relocated the heater control to under the dash. so will be poser showtime spec once finished easy to tune with factory cams and actually goes surprisingly well for what it is. couple of screen caps after about 3 full power runs. log: http://garage4ag.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/kp2.jpg fuel map http://garage4ag.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/kp1.jpg 2 Quote
kpr Posted May 13, 2012 Author Posted May 13, 2012 few better pics. almost ready to attempt a wof. Quote
kpr Posted May 19, 2012 Author Posted May 19, 2012 exhaust is broken and leaky again. started on new rear muffler today. took pics along the way, so will post as a how to: cut some plates drill some holes drill some more holes drill some more holes/test fit drill even more holes. tack and weld center part ran out of welding wire and tube. so thats it for now. have used triple pass design. as straight though wont quieten it down enough, since 4ages sound shit with any exhaust noise. (other than a straight pipe) triple pass are usually pretty restrictive. but if over kill the internal pipes they seem to work well. this one is running 3" inlet, then 2x 2.5" for the rest to keep flow up. im also adding another trick to try get rid of the twang. Quote
kpr Posted May 25, 2012 Author Posted May 25, 2012 more holes weld sections on i haven't done bugger all ali welding. so the welds look pretty shit. but good practice while building something purposeful. not too worried what this part looks like, as it wont be seen. Quote
kpr Posted June 3, 2012 Author Posted June 3, 2012 last muffler post, promise. well until i break it like all the others. may as well keep the "how to" thing going. roll. done this around a bit of 4" stainless. bit small but was all i could find. rolled chuck some chop strand in it. used 3m! weld it up starting to get the hang of ali welding. need a foot pedal. beside the old one. i made the shell on this one out of some real thin stuff too keep weight down, but it fell apart. as you can see. i beat it with a hammer, pop riveted it, birdshit mig'd it etc.. to make it last a few more weeks. the ali one is 2-3kg lighter even though is got alot more material in it here's the whole system. extractors-> 2.5" collector ->dumping into about 3 equivalent oval thing with V band & slip joint so can easily try different collector lengths -> straight thru reso/muffler -> back to 3" round -> another slip joint to ali mufffler -> twin 2.5" exit too shiny for my liking. i try set the muffler foward far as possible and keep pipes longish after the muffler, as tends to make it alot quieter. pulled motor and box again today. fixed gearbox as wouldn't down change into second. smashed another syncro like in the trueno. need to change gears more nicely. t50's rule though, so much better than W box. other than the obvious. fix sump. maybe back together tomorrow. Quote
kpr Posted June 24, 2012 Author Posted June 24, 2012 finally got this junk sorted. engine and box has been out 3 times. short story, it now has mongrel T50, consisting of 2x T50's and 1x t40. works perfect, but i still have no idea what was wrong with it. the only damage i found was a broken synro ring, and replacing that did not fix it. had epic drama with sump also. lift some 4age's lift some dead people. both cars work, super rarity 1 Quote
kpr Posted July 1, 2012 Author Posted July 1, 2012 got wof yesterday. not sure how, but it did. then, pulled it apart again today. chopped rack mounts off stuck them on 15mm forward Quote
kpr Posted July 7, 2012 Author Posted July 7, 2012 ok moving the rack forward kinda got out of hand. moved lower arms forward 15mm, same as rack. drilled out the spots, slid them forward and plug welded back on. pretty straight forward. ball joints were hitting on the end of the sway bar, after doing some previous steering mods. so fixed this as well. skimmed protruding part off the backside of lower arm, shortened my urethane bushes and sliced the excess thread off sway bar. <- all this +moving the lower arm mounts, i ended up with heaps more clearance than i was expecting. had thought about changing the lot to a caster arm setup like ae86. but really dont think its worth the effort, just to reduce a bit of deflection. pic of kp setup for reference: ***snowball effect**** then, i decided to test fit one of the equip 02's, since i had new found steering clearance. lower offset means i had a lot more room to play with on the inside. may as well use the room for more lock!? out come the rack again. seems i had tacked a stopper on the end of the rack housing, to limit the lock and stop the ball joints eating the sway bar. chopped the stopper off and skimmed another few mm off the end of the rack housing, to acquire the 12mm rack travel needed to get lock where i wanted it. too easy. wheels had some slight mexi poke/hellaflush. so made some brackets to push the stock guards out 10mm or so. no rub, no stretch, wheels fit good. took pic's but they are junk. will try again tomorrow. here's a shiny wheel i polished up today tl;dr move lower arm forward - angles corrected more lock +40mm front track! shiny wheel no rub, test run - works sweet pics tomorrow maybe Quote
kpr Posted July 8, 2012 Author Posted July 8, 2012 not 100% sold on the 02's on this car. kinda growing on me though. can see the extra caster/wheel base here. looks a little weird, but is about +50mm wheelbase over stock, or only 50mm less than an ae86. but the lack of anything overhanging each end, it still reminds you, kp starlet Quote
kpr Posted December 24, 2012 Author Posted December 24, 2012 long time no update! haven't really done anything to the car, other than fixed a few things, that aren't very exciting. went to christmas manji's yesterday. quick vid, should have some more to post later discuss is probably lost. so i'l put it here again //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21726-kprs-starlet/page__st__240 1 Quote
kpr Posted December 24, 2012 Author Posted December 24, 2012 more from yesterday, vids bro took: Quote
kpr Posted January 8, 2013 Author Posted January 8, 2013 forgot to post this here. some full track runs. need to get a wof . if they tell me, needs a re-cert. going to cut some big holes. exhaust tunnel and maybe better 4 link setup Quote
Guest kpr Posted March 30, 2013 Posted March 30, 2013 diff has been annoying me for ages. back on page one it shows how i modded the axles. have ground all the welds back, hopefully i can press them apart and shorten more. last time i shortened it, made it so the gold rims fitted nicely, but that was still slightly wider than the factory setup. case has a bit of toe out. been wanting to fix this for ages as well. will be setting it up with a little toe in, should hopefully make the ass end feel more planted. plus a little camber. has heaps of grip up front, after doing the mods a few posts up. so should get away with dialing a bit more into the rear. ^wasn't planing on cutting everything off the case, needed to happen though likely run these 02's all round on the street, 2 Quote
Guest kpr Posted April 1, 2013 Posted April 1, 2013 axles came apart pretty easily, after grinding the welds back and throwing them in the press. wasn't sure if it was going to happen. machined them down some more and pressed back into place. will reweld chuck some new bearings on after the rest is done. cut the case for camber mod. once i finally got the camber right. i welded the shit out of the front side, using the shrinkage from the weld, to pull the case and correct the toe out. haven't checked it again since welding the case fully. but should somewhere between 1 and 1.5 degree camber and a bit of toe in. if not fail and start again. 2 Quote
Guest kpr Posted April 21, 2013 Posted April 21, 2013 so i've pretty much redone the whole diff conversion, probably should have gone to a lighter ae86 diff or something. but this is indestructible behind the 4a. axles re-welded with new bearings, ready to go. finished welding everything to the case tonight. oh shit your diff is bent. top mounts have been dropped down around 20mm. 10 off the mount and 10 more with the bend. other than putting the top rear links on a better angle. has given it a decent amount more travel, before the diff eats the body. made some new bumpstop seats, so the diff stops mm's from the body when doing jumps etc.. before it was lucky if it had 15mm travel. has over double that now / will probably just lower it more. managed to trim a bit of fat along the way also drive shaft angles were pretty shit. have corrected them as much as possible. will add a spacer under the gearbox also. but can't get it where it needs to be. only options are. 1) cut and raise the tunnel. 2) raise ride height. option 2 can fuck off. and i cant be assed doing option one. more interesting update next, promise 4 Quote
Guest kpr Posted April 24, 2013 Posted April 24, 2013 took the day off and got this going. mackaz swapped tyres onto the 02's, cheers bro. the finished diff case. and axles after a quick test run, ass end feels more planted. happy so far 1 Quote
kpr Posted April 27, 2013 Author Posted April 27, 2013 fins from seedy finally arrived here yesterday. even though picture does not suggest, in person these definitely look the best so far! tracking down a matching pair isnt going to be easy. will get better pic's after this post self destructs took it through hiway 16 on anzac day. handles so much better now 2 Quote
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