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Strengthening..


Josh

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Ok so...I want/need more opinions to on strengthening a mk1 ford capri.

Heres the issue..They came out with 100 odd HP at the engine on the 2L pinto. With the new turbo pinto, it puts out over double that (approx 230 odd HP at engine)

..thats with the current turbo it has on it, I want to (against the opinion of somone I should listen to) change the turbo to a t3/t4, which will put out a even more power.

Anywho..I hadnt considered any strengthening at all of the body and RT suspects/knows that it will twist the car and nice panel gaps etc will be greatly affected.

Right so...I want as much information and/or advice as i can possibly get my hands on, on how to strengthen the car up so it basically not going to fuck up the poor Capri.

Im still undecided if il run the bigger turbo yet, but still would like to do the strengthening due to the engine swap coming up. Cheers.

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bro has a book put out in the 70s called "ford escort rally preperation" which covers everything, including gusseting and seam welding.

see if you can find an equivalent which pertains to the capri.

alternatively, rollcage guys uaully take care of this sometimes. there's bound to be someone that's in the know about o.s brit fords in your gretaer area

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will probably sound real dumb, but whats the deal with the seam welding?

simply bead along all the seams? any particular style?

what my bro-in-law did with his mk2 4age escort rally car... roll cage and then rolled it over and mig'd between the spot-welds on the chassis (seams on all structural body) to stop any flex...

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Ok so...I want/need more opinions to on strengthening a mk1 ford capri.

You need too.

..thats with the current turbo it has on it, I want to (against the opinion of somone I should listen to) change the turbo to a t3/t4, which will put out a even more power.

...that depends on the T3/T4. what echaust housing are you going to run?

I personally wouldn't go bigger than a .68AR for the 2L

What's your rear end setup? Tramp rods?

Anywho..I hadnt considered any strengthening at all of the body and RT suspects/knows that it will twist the car and nice panel gaps etc will be greatly affected.

Not to mention the nasty effects that it has on the steering geometry when the front twists. Run a strut brace if nothing else.

Right so...I want as much information and/or advice as i can possibly get my hands on, on how to strengthen the car up so it basically not going to fuck up the poor Capri.

Strut brace, roll cage, and gusseting is what I'm doing.

Im still undecided if il run the bigger turbo yet, but still would like to do the strengthening due to the engine swap coming up. Cheers.

The T3/T4 give you a huge range of choice from ~250hp to ~600hp

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Ok so...I want/need more opinions to on strengthening a mk1 ford capri.

You need too.

..thats with the current turbo it has on it, I want to (against the opinion of somone I should listen to) change the turbo to a t3/t4, which will put out a even more power.

...that depends on the T3/T4. what echaust housing are you going to run?

I personally wouldn't go bigger than a .68AR for the 2L

What's your rear end setup? Tramp rods?

Anywho..I hadnt considered any strengthening at all of the body and RT suspects/knows that it will twist the car and nice panel gaps etc will be greatly affected.

Not to mention the nasty effects that it has on the steering geometry when the front twists. Run a strut brace if nothing else.

Right so...I want as much information and/or advice as i can possibly get my hands on, on how to strengthen the car up so it basically not going to fuck up the poor Capri.

Strut brace, roll cage, and gusseting is what I'm doing.

Im still undecided if il run the bigger turbo yet, but still would like to do the strengthening due to the engine swap coming up. Cheers.

The T3/T4 give you a huge range of choice from ~250hp to ~600hp

Well I was looking at some of the t3/t4s, and turbonetics make a nice 510HP one, but thats all Il say on that matter, im yet to reseach more about what exact spec'd one to run.

Will try get, or make a strut brace for sure, am going to do gusseting and seam welding also while the car is basically bare before paint etc, not doing cage.

Cheers for the answers :D

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What are tramp bars?

If ya do a google.com.au for "tramp rod" http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&q ... DcountryAU

you'll get the idea... they stop the axle housing "torquing" (wind-up) around the axle axis...

In english, they stop your diff hopping during a burnout...

they used to be real big in the 70's-80's... you could see them (chrome) in front of the rear wheel with a rubber bit hitting the leaf-eye...

Tramp rods are to reduce the amount that the rear suspension and axle twists when you give the car a bootfull. They are meant to give you more traction

my five minutes of paint (and 10 of waiting for fucking imageshack to work)

These are the 80's style

slapperbarve7.jpg

I stole this from somewhere but the dude makes sense:

As Isaac Newton stated in his third law of motion, for every action one way, there's an equal and opposite reaction the other way. (Think of a motorcycle popping a mono! or switch on an electric drill and feel it try and turn in the opposite direction!!!)

Imagine a leaf spring, which under normal circumstances would "bend" as it goes over a bump, now has to "react" to the wheels rotating in a forward direction. The spring reacts by "bending" over itself. Think of an S shape instead of a C. Follow me so far??? OK, springs are springs and as such will return to their normal resting place (eventually! That's why we have shockies or more correctly "dampeners" to take out the oscilations but that's another story) So the spring is is an S shape, (not normal) and returns to it's C shape which basically causes the wheel to "hop" or tramp. This is not including the fact that the tyre is trying to turn and the car is trying to stay still due to inertia. (Trust me, I could explain this in correct terms but I'm trying to keep it simple.) SO anyway, the "tramp rod" is designed to stop the spring from going into the S shape by maintaining the distance between the diff and the front eyelet. I'll try this one on you. Look at the rear springs. The front is "locked" to the body. (It does pivot in a bushing, but I'm trying to keep it simple.) Now look at the rear of the spring. It has two lengths of steel or a single bent rod with two bushes, one on the body and one on the spring. Imagine if that rear was the same as the front. No when you hit a bump, the spring can only move up and down, As it moves up and down the distance between the bushes remains the same but the length of the spring gets shorter. (Hard to explain in typing) The spring would have to bend in numerous places to absorb the bump.

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I was talking about HellRaizer's definition, not blakamin - these were standard fitments to RS etc escorts. Don't really speak capri - too long and narrow for my tastes - but trying to transfer my escort experiences across... and I've read about others who've done similar.

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