LJ XU1

[Guest jim__10]

Im looking to buy a XU1 and just wanted to know what the common rust spots on this car are and what things i should look for when looking to buy a original car like this..

Also would anyone happen to know what type of power one can get when modifying these 6 cylinder engine..

thanks.....

[davidian]

pm PSYCHOV6 the man in the know

hell probably say something like "throw a newer 6 in it for fuck all and twice the power/reliability"

[kyteler]

A genuine XU1 is a pricey affair, there are plenty of replicas about, more than there are real ones so you'll have to know how to distinguish in that regard.

Rust in them is much like any other Holden or car for that batter, your main points of interest will be the base of the A-pillars, in the sills, the boot, the section of body between the door opening and the rear wheel well, the base of that.

Basically just give one a really good look over in person, check EVERYWHERE, they're 33 odd years old now so there WILL be rust unless it's been in dry storage since the showroom.

[v3k]

if you want some good power out of the XU1 you dont need to go for an 8.

Get a good head (or porting job), aset of roller rockers and camshaft that suits your needs and an XU1 will have tripple carbs anyway.

If you are looking for an origonal. The signs are (that I can remember):

Fuel cell/tank where the spare tire usually is,

4 speed,

tripple carbs (Im not sure which these are ... SU?.... I dont know)

engine number starts with JP.

Also on the VIN plate there is likely to be a body number that corresponds only to the XU-1

I know a XU nut at work, so if this hasnt been answered by the time I see him next I'll ask him

[Rusted]

If you get an XU-1 LEAVE IT STANDARD!

if you end up getting a GTR or lesser and wish to stick with the 202, I would suggest yella terra head, extractors and although the triple SU's look good and sound godly they always need attention with one side running rich or lean. A nice set of duals is a better option.

[rxsumo]

I think the long range fuel tank was optional....similar to the Charger. There was a "Bathurst Spec" tank, that would be found on the Aussie cars, and perhaps some of the road cars, but as the cars werent used for long distance racing in NZ, the cars may not have been spec'd with them.

There are a couple of them that have been setup for Racing in Wanganui, and I sure that I heard that the engines were punching over 300BHP.

The engines are a little "fragile" but it isnt bad for a dirty old holden six.

[SYKOV6]

if u happen to cum across a genuine GTR XU1 LC or LJ then lock it up in your shed and forget about it until u retire it will b worth a fuckin SHITLOAD but gettin back to ya question about rust where shall i start- bottoms of rear guards

- bottoms of front guards

- tops of front guards above the head light

-the scuttle panel in front of the fr screen[water gets trapped under the rubber and rusts the panel out usually in the bot corners

-where the door top frame meets the door panel [they rust out and break off]

- the floor especially in the foot wells. they are not rust heaps but are gettin old and these are the common rust areas. 300hp from a n/a red six is obtainable but the engines are pushed to the very limit of what the block can handle. the later blue/black six is better. the vk commy inj 3.3 makes a very good choice for a turbo with factory inj and good head design. i had a vn v6 in mine but if i did it again would prolly go for a skyline 2.5 turbo engine. link to pics of mine is top one below

[mk2_escort]

i had a vn v6 in mine but if i did it again would prolly go for a skyline 2.5 turbo engine.

theres a price tag that comes with those, can be quite large at times