v3k

unfortuantely the DARK FLAT RED will simply be a sales person/marketing link to the colour they use. Dark - any shade darker than normal Flat - useful... at least that cuts out other finishes Red - well, any shade with a tinge of red. So pretty much if you want an exact match, these details tell you nothing. However, if you have just bought a bike for your kids. Ask the store owner if you can borrow the red bike, take it to a paint matching shop and they will give you a docket with a few numbers and colours on it. This is their reciepe to make that paint. They can then make it in any volume and for any delivery system (from pre-made aerosol cans to 10 L buckets).

I did a calc once on going with 1.6L head on 2L block... got about 13.5:1 (or 14 I cant remember).. Maybe major compression?

if you cant seem to pin-point the problem (bear in mind we are guessing here - havent seen the car and all...) Get a call out mechanic to have a look, he will do the compression test etc and give you an accurate idea of the problem. Otherwise you might spend $$ on the gasket set (and time replacing it) to find it was something else. Next step - The library. Get out (or photocopy) the troubleshooting and head gasket replacement parts. Always good to have a reference.

the 4k i had with a rooted head gasket dove fine. Just went through alot of water. It was just hard to start (cranked but took ages to fire), ran like a sack of spuds to start with (few secs), used a bit of water... but otherwise drove ok (even idled). However, A mechanic had looked at it before I purchased and did a compression test... 3 cylinders were fine, one was stuffed. You can have a blown head gasket and it still run ok (for an old car!). Get a compression test done. Or just replace the head gasket (and all other gaskets you get with a 'valve regrind' gasket set) its a pushrod 1600 isnt it? - shouldn't be too bad - I managed in the back yard with a rusted in head bolt... (and Im a mechanical leper)

Um... Warning sign? If you are using the temp sender (the bit that screws into the block) that came with your aftermarket water temp guage then its accurate. Anyway. Hope it is just damp contacts. Would a spray of crc help? to expell moisture?

if you are leaking oil and your oil level is constant it means coolant is getting into your oil. If you have a shagged head gasket you will have no compression either (in one or more cylinders). Also. I have owned a 4 cylinder that has a poked headgasket that would run. But as one cylinder had water seeping into it over night it ran like a sack of shit till that cylinder drove out the water and was hot enough to evapourate any that sept in. Also if coolant managed to get to your dizzy (not familiar with layout of engine) is it possible you pressurized your coolant (head gasket again) and sprayed it out a tired hose/join or something?

I looked it up - apparently diesel oil has more detergents and cleaning crap in it than oil for petrol engines... Thats about it I think?

I have contemplated using some sort of engine clean stuff but have heard stories of them dislodging big chunks of crud that clog oils lines etc and consiquently starve your engine of oil in some important areas.. Opinions?

and ruin every seal in the engine too?

on a slightly different subject... I think the last owner sort of was lax in relation to oill changes... The rocker arms etc are covered in black deposits. Will frequent oil changes remove this slowly? or do I need to run an oil flush before the next change? or take the rocker covers off and get cleaning?

The tranny is a TH700 - I was looking on the net for the 'correct' procedure (and under the car) looks pretty snug on sides of trans and most info on net says to change its oil you take the trans pan off (refil through dipstick 5L of tranny fluid!). - Those are the bolts I was refering to. As for the cam being noisey... I think I'll let it tick then! Dont really feel like getting a new cam for it. (its done 280000kms by the way!)

Not so sure on the coby extractors - I have heard they are shit? But should be better than the stock manifold anyway. But a raise in compression, better induction and a more agressive cam is a good start. But with all engine mods - without a 'good' flowing head you wont get all the benefits. So some $$ on porting might be a good idea.

the only thing it 'needs' at the moment is a gearbox oil change. No biggie, I can sort that out (although would need torque specs for the bolts) But there are a few other things that I might be interested in doing. like.. decarbonising the engine, changing the lifters/injectors as one of them is quietly ticking at idle. General mechanical tidy ups. Its going to be parked up a bit (Im moving to within walking distance of work) and I thought it might be a good time to go over it with a critical eye and sort things out and would like a reference point. I was just sorta trying my luck here, I'll probally just buy one next pay day (damn monthly salary).

You do need oxygen to be present http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust However the by-products of combustion are CO2 and H2O and these combined (in a pool particularly) form carbonic acid which starts pitting the metal and starting the rusting process (this is why you middle and end mufflers rust out first in your exhaust system, water pools in them). ANYWAY - lovely thread pulled back from the dead. Lets be honest, if you dont plan on keeping your car for more than 2 years, it shouldnt really matter because if exhaust wrap is a problem, it wont be yours. If you do plan on keeping the car for ages, HPC coat it for that underhood porn.

HAHAH - fair call. dick

Hello, Just thinking about doing some stuff on the commy and was wondering if anyone here knew of anyone who has a workshop manual (or know a place where I can download one). I know I should stop being a tight arse and just buy one, but I'd rather not spend the cash at this point... Im mainly aiming this square at sykoV6.... i believe you got rid of your SS. Didnt happen to have a useful book did you ?

Diatomic oxygen (O2) is the stuff that is needed for corrosion. The energy from the steam is what makes it particularly corrosive as well. Im not arguing, I was trying to present a reason why steam pipes might not be good for manifolds... After all, theory should never be used over true experience, and my knowledge is only theory.

You can keep being a smart ass.... Rust needs 3 things Water (yes can be in steam form), Oxygen, Carbon (in the steel, not on it). Water and oxygen obvious (I dont know how much oxygen is in exhaust gas). The carbon is needed, but doesnt have to at the site of the rust... But it usually is, most steel has carbon used as hardening. BUT! I think the reason steam pipes dont rust from the inside out is the lack of oxygen inside, so I think your theory falls apart. Anyway - random addition to the topic that doesnt really add anything, I'll go now..

possible things to check... 1) Vacuum Leaks, can be done with a vacuum guage or listening. 2) Timing. Make sure its correct 3) Spark plugs, make sure they are clean and working 4) Compression Test

Search "IR thermometer" in google - then you will know what you are looking for. We have one at work - works best on black surfaces. never thought of using it to find cold spots though!

what do you have to do to make it road legal in your neck of the woods? any inspection or registration or anything like that?

I doubt its any help - but my hiace ran at 210°F I dont think its bad - cooling systems are under pressure so you are a wee way from coolant boiling. I did a few searches as I thought 210 was a bit hot. But it seems to be the norm.

Being an old fart at heart I must agree with the above posters... I'd lose the tach, the steering wheel, rice cannon and the camo... BUT (Big BUT) What you are doing looks like it is well done. The reskinned doors look good (i.e. no creases etc) and you are obviously putting alot of effort into the car = Awesome in my book. do what you like (being its your car and all) but do it well... no duct tape (I dont care if people call it 'race tape') and no shortcuts. Good luck

yes... But... A 1983 sierra 2L will not have a 205 block. A 1989 one will/might. The 205 blocks are stronger.

Nope - Cosworth blocks are 205 blocks, used in 1988- ford SOHC and DOHC sierras. These have thicker cylinder walls. (the internals on the standard 205 block are more heavy duty than the standard pinto block - but obviously not up to cosworth standards)